Archive through November 13, 2008
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Help Support IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum:
Kendell, that appears to be the same spring/hole placement as Killer and is the same as my two other K301 engines which I checked last night. The only difference is in the style and mounting location of the throttle cable clamp.
Joe, now you are saying snowblower??? You previously stated it was a snow plow??? IF it is a snowthrower (I doubt it's a snowBLOWER) it MIGHT fit if the model is a QA42A or a QA36A.
kide
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Kraig:
OK, here's how I'd chase it down...
1. With the engine off,make sure that the spring is loose (at least no tension on it)when the throttle plate is closed all the way. (I'm sure you've verified that the plate is closing all the way).
2: Make sure you've got enough travel in the cable to open the throttle all the way and that with the engine off, when you open the throttle it does pull the plate all the way open.
3: Start it up and set the idle speed, with the throttle closed, of course).
4: Check your WOT speed. If it's low and assuming that the governor is working right, you need the spring to have more "pull", which you'd get by moving it to a lower hole on the governor arm. (That gives the spring more leverage over the governor's action).
I know this probably isn't what's in the Kohler book, but that's how I've adjusted them on all the small engines that I've worked on.
OK, here's how I'd chase it down...
1. With the engine off,make sure that the spring is loose (at least no tension on it)when the throttle plate is closed all the way. (I'm sure you've verified that the plate is closing all the way).
2: Make sure you've got enough travel in the cable to open the throttle all the way and that with the engine off, when you open the throttle it does pull the plate all the way open.
3: Start it up and set the idle speed, with the throttle closed, of course).
4: Check your WOT speed. If it's low and assuming that the governor is working right, you need the spring to have more "pull", which you'd get by moving it to a lower hole on the governor arm. (That gives the spring more leverage over the governor's action).
I know this probably isn't what's in the Kohler book, but that's how I've adjusted them on all the small engines that I've worked on.
Kendell
1. Done that! Several times. (Yep, the throttle plate is moving through it's full range.)
2. Done that! Several times. With the engine off (and the cable adjusted so that I get a proper idle speed) the throttle does move from the idle stop all the way open, however when the engine is running (and I probably didn't make this clear earlier) the throttle won't fully open. Is it safe to assume that the governor is overdoing it's job and overpowering the spring and not letting it fully open????
3. Done that! Several times.
4. Done that, again several times, speed is only ~3000 to 3200 RPM range. I have NOT moved the governor spring, that was tonight's first line of attack. I was going to move the other end of the spring though as that looked like it would give me more travel on the throttle linkage thus increasing the spring tension. Not sure which end of the spring is best to move first.... I guess I could give both ends a try and see which if either makes the best improvement.
THANKS TO ALL for the input/suggestions on this. I'll keep you updated.
1. Done that! Several times. (Yep, the throttle plate is moving through it's full range.)
2. Done that! Several times. With the engine off (and the cable adjusted so that I get a proper idle speed) the throttle does move from the idle stop all the way open, however when the engine is running (and I probably didn't make this clear earlier) the throttle won't fully open. Is it safe to assume that the governor is overdoing it's job and overpowering the spring and not letting it fully open????
3. Done that! Several times.
4. Done that, again several times, speed is only ~3000 to 3200 RPM range. I have NOT moved the governor spring, that was tonight's first line of attack. I was going to move the other end of the spring though as that looked like it would give me more travel on the throttle linkage thus increasing the spring tension. Not sure which end of the spring is best to move first.... I guess I could give both ends a try and see which if either makes the best improvement.
THANKS TO ALL for the input/suggestions on this. I'll keep you updated.
kide
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Kraig:
Yeah, I'd think maybe the governor was really maybe pulling back pretty hard, but that's why there are multiple holes on the governor arm. The other end of the spring doesn't care about anything but travel, so if you've got enough, the governor end is where I'd adjust at....If you get to the last hole and still not getting what ya want.....call David??
Yeah, I'd think maybe the governor was really maybe pulling back pretty hard, but that's why there are multiple holes on the governor arm. The other end of the spring doesn't care about anything but travel, so if you've got enough, the governor end is where I'd adjust at....If you get to the last hole and still not getting what ya want.....call David??
Kendell, David had responded late last night to an email and we were leaning toward moving the spring to the top hole on the other bracket not the governor arm. Time to head home, I'm sure I'll be posting later this evening. Again, thanks to all for the help, what a great forum.
Doug W., First welcome to the forum. The hood hinge on your 128 should be a one piece hinge. The only thing that limits the opening of the hood is when the nosecone hits the grille housing. I would post a pic if my camera and computer were getting along. The sponsers at the top of the page carry replacement hinges.
OK. I looked on the cub part finder but I can't find a diagram of the hydrostatic drive release mechanism. Mine is broke and I need a part number or something to reference it. Help......
OK I found it........Lever Dump Valve, Who Knew..... IH-545728R1
OK I found it........Lever Dump Valve, Who Knew..... IH-545728R1
Scott S.
Nope
The S/G belt is 3/8 X 31" and the hydraulic lift pump belt is 3/8" X 33".
Nope
The S/G belt is 3/8 X 31" and the hydraulic lift pump belt is 3/8" X 33".
Nick, how are these?
kide
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Just read an old mechanic's trick (in the latest issue of Hot Rod). That picture with the elbow made me think of it... It sez that to loosen up a frozen connection, heat with a torch, then drip candle was onto the exposed portion of the threads while it's hot...let it cool down and try turning it out. The wax will penetrate the connection and lubricate it.
Alright, we got any volunteers??
Alright, we got any volunteers??
kide
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Kraig:
I just re-read what you and David discussed..If you have enough travel, I don't think that will help. Think of that end as a stationery point. The governor end is where the spring force will be increased or decreased, depending on how far up or down the lever you hook it......
I just re-read what you and David discussed..If you have enough travel, I don't think that will help. Think of that end as a stationery point. The governor end is where the spring force will be increased or decreased, depending on how far up or down the lever you hook it......
OK, here's where I'm at with Killer. I moved the spring to the top hole on the "Speed Control Bracket" tweaked the throttle cable location in the screw clamp to make sure that the throttle would go all the way to the idle stop and fired it up. I let it warm up and then checked the RPMs. I now have ~1200 for an idle speed and ~3500 for a top RPM. The throttle cable is still not pulling all the way to the "High Speed Stop" it's about 1/16" shy of hitting the stop and about 1/8" shy of the throttle cable sheathing. I also finished up the wiring for the windbreaker lights then I took it for a ride around the yard.
Based on the RPM that the electronic tach is reading out and the "seat of my pants tach" and "audible (my ears) tach" I'm highly doubtful that the tired old K301 that was in this chassis was running anywhere near 3400 RPM let alone 3600. My ears tell me that the old K301 was topping out around 3200 RPM.
I decided that I should get the windbreaker cab mounted so I got that done.
Here's the rebuilt, repainted PTO. I'll reinstall the grill screen after I mount up the snow thrower.
Here's Killer's throttle cable position at idle:
Here's Killer's throttle cable position at WOT:
Cab is on, the QA42 is next, then tire chains.
Based on the RPM that the electronic tach is reading out and the "seat of my pants tach" and "audible (my ears) tach" I'm highly doubtful that the tired old K301 that was in this chassis was running anywhere near 3400 RPM let alone 3600. My ears tell me that the old K301 was topping out around 3200 RPM.
I decided that I should get the windbreaker cab mounted so I got that done.
Here's the rebuilt, repainted PTO. I'll reinstall the grill screen after I mount up the snow thrower.
Here's Killer's throttle cable position at idle:
Here's Killer's throttle cable position at WOT:
Cab is on, the QA42 is next, then tire chains.
Thanks Kraig, appreciate it. (And by that I mean I did have mine on backwards, but just on 1/4" because I thought it was backwards but wanted to make sure) Looks real good. Aren't you missing a pulley yet? And does the thin edge of the mower pulley face the front? I seem to have lost my before pics of the engine and between these pulleys and working nighshifts I can't think straight. Thanks again, Nick
