Archive through May 31, 2010
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jmacdonald
Well-known member
Frank your not kidden with the "Duh" moment followed by a real wide grin. At least I learned something I am not soon to forget.
Thanks to Ken also!
Thanks to Ken also!
Hi all,
I have a 149, I'm slowly fixing up. A couple of questions.
First what's involved in replaceing the plastic fan in front of the rag joint. Do I just unbolt the rag joint, and knock out the roll pin where the shaft connects to the engine to get it out of there?
Secondly, my handle that controls the forward / reverse is loose. It turns maybe 45 degrees before it has any affect. It's obviously loose on the shaft. Is there any known tricks for fixing this? What is supposed to hold it tight on the the shaft? Mine has a small screw in in that is acting like a set screw. Is it supposed to be there?
Thanks for any help.
I have a 149, I'm slowly fixing up. A couple of questions.
First what's involved in replaceing the plastic fan in front of the rag joint. Do I just unbolt the rag joint, and knock out the roll pin where the shaft connects to the engine to get it out of there?
Secondly, my handle that controls the forward / reverse is loose. It turns maybe 45 degrees before it has any affect. It's obviously loose on the shaft. Is there any known tricks for fixing this? What is supposed to hold it tight on the the shaft? Mine has a small screw in in that is acting like a set screw. Is it supposed to be there?
Thanks for any help.
kide
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- Gerry Ide
I'm starting to put some time into the 149 I picked up a couple of years ago. This machine has so many PO mods that I've started a list - so far I've found separated brakes (like on an 8N), relocated voltage regulator (hangs off the tower by the gas tank), "interesting" steering joints (hammered back together), the hub on the starter pulley on the crank shimmed with beer can stock and the driveline consisting of low speed clamp style u-joints.....
The latest discovery is a "Frankenstein" S/G which had red end plates and a mint green paint inside the body.. What other brand tractor used the reverse rotation field coils like a Cub (and maybe was mint green..)?. The red end plates may have been off a Wheel Horse..(AFAIK, none of the Red Cubs used a S/G).. Whoever this guy was , he knew how to keep 'em going!!
The latest discovery is a "Frankenstein" S/G which had red end plates and a mint green paint inside the body.. What other brand tractor used the reverse rotation field coils like a Cub (and maybe was mint green..)?. The red end plates may have been off a Wheel Horse..(AFAIK, none of the Red Cubs used a S/G).. Whoever this guy was , he knew how to keep 'em going!!
sblunier
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- Steve Blunier "Mr. Plow" (Central IL)
Hydro Harry,
Great to see your posts on here again....and as always, nice 169!! I admit to occasionally missing mine, but my dentist bills have dropped way off since then....(man could that thing rattle your teeth)
Great to see your posts on here again....and as always, nice 169!! I admit to occasionally missing mine, but my dentist bills have dropped way off since then....(man could that thing rattle your teeth)
kide
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- Gerry Ide
James S:
You'll want to pull the 4 engine mounting bolts and slide the engine forward... The driveshaft is "trapped" on both ends. Pull rag joint bolts and pop the driveshaft out. Don't forget the circlip on the fan hub that keeps it from sliding...
The Hydro control handle is splined internally and uses a setscrew to go into a groove in the shifter shaft. If you can get the setscrew out, there is usually corrosion from the diecast "grown" into the groove that'll make it tough getting the handle off. Just keep working on it..........
You'll want to pull the 4 engine mounting bolts and slide the engine forward... The driveshaft is "trapped" on both ends. Pull rag joint bolts and pop the driveshaft out. Don't forget the circlip on the fan hub that keeps it from sliding...
The Hydro control handle is splined internally and uses a setscrew to go into a groove in the shifter shaft. If you can get the setscrew out, there is usually corrosion from the diecast "grown" into the groove that'll make it tough getting the handle off. Just keep working on it..........
mmiller
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- Michael A. Miller
KENtuckyKen, Please do the how to and I'll follow along!
Don T, I don't know what 8oz boat cloth is like, but I was thinking of starting with the repair kits you can get at the auto parts store. What do you think?
Don T, I don't know what 8oz boat cloth is like, but I was thinking of starting with the repair kits you can get at the auto parts store. What do you think?
mgwin
Well-known member
Steve S.,
Did you get your problem with the lift arm figured out? I've been busy and haven't had time to reply since the other day. Another thought: the lift arm may not be in the correct horizontal position. If you haven't already, install the foot rest plates. This may help get it spaced correctly from the side of the frame.
Did you get your problem with the lift arm figured out? I've been busy and haven't had time to reply since the other day. Another thought: the lift arm may not be in the correct horizontal position. If you haven't already, install the foot rest plates. This may help get it spaced correctly from the side of the frame.
mgonitzke
Well-known member
Gerry-
At least he must have sort of known what he was doing in that starter/generator. I just opened one up in which someone had tried to repair a broken field terminal lead, only he used a piece of unvarnished and otherwise uninsulated wire...and it was touching the inside of the case. Must have melted off just about instantly.
I'm not sure what else uses a CCW S/G, but I've also discovered that there are some shorter versions of the Delco S/G. Not sure what they fit, but that's all I've got left in my parts collection.
At least he must have sort of known what he was doing in that starter/generator. I just opened one up in which someone had tried to repair a broken field terminal lead, only he used a piece of unvarnished and otherwise uninsulated wire...and it was touching the inside of the case. Must have melted off just about instantly.
I'm not sure what else uses a CCW S/G, but I've also discovered that there are some shorter versions of the Delco S/G. Not sure what they fit, but that's all I've got left in my parts collection.
mgwin
Well-known member
Michael,
Lowes has a kit: "Elmers All Purpose Repair System" which fixes fiberglass, concrete, metal, and more. It comes in a two part epoxy which has little to no smell. The kit is in a box about 6 inches tall and 4 inches wide. I used it to repair the wear holes in the fiberglass dash where the hood rubs on the corners. I was very satisfied with the results. You only use what you need, and seal the rest up in the containers provided (no squeeze tubes).
Lowes has a kit: "Elmers All Purpose Repair System" which fixes fiberglass, concrete, metal, and more. It comes in a two part epoxy which has little to no smell. The kit is in a box about 6 inches tall and 4 inches wide. I used it to repair the wear holes in the fiberglass dash where the hood rubs on the corners. I was very satisfied with the results. You only use what you need, and seal the rest up in the containers provided (no squeeze tubes).
jbaker
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- jeff l baker
Dusty Welcome use the search engine and both pages of FAQs for finding some of your answers also to answer your question 20 to 30 pounds and here is a manaual link where you should find the torque pattern
http://ccmanuals.info/pdf/1x8-9%20&%20QL%20Service%20Manual.pdf
http://ccmanuals.info/pdf/1x8-9%20&%20QL%20Service%20Manual.pdf
mgonitzke
Well-known member
Jeff/Dusty-
My manual says 25-30 ft-lbs. The order in which the bolts are torqued is also important. I'd torque them to 30 ft-lbs in increments of 10 ft-lbs. Retorque after 1/2 hour of run time. I'm going to assume that you've made sure the gasket surface on the head is flat, and corrected it if not. If you didn't...you'll be doing this again.
<font size="-2">Aside: Units are important...pounds = FORCE, not torque. Torque, in this context, would be in ft-lbs or in-lbs. </font>
My manual says 25-30 ft-lbs. The order in which the bolts are torqued is also important. I'd torque them to 30 ft-lbs in increments of 10 ft-lbs. Retorque after 1/2 hour of run time. I'm going to assume that you've made sure the gasket surface on the head is flat, and corrected it if not. If you didn't...you'll be doing this again.
<font size="-2">Aside: Units are important...pounds = FORCE, not torque. Torque, in this context, would be in ft-lbs or in-lbs. </font>
hydroharry
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- Harry Bursell
Dan T - thanks for the compliment on the 169. The "Quiet" muffler as you call it, was the standard design on the 169. But the original has a short or stubby exhaust pipe. I couldn't locate one 11 years ago but happened across the one I have by an odd chance - a fellow Forum member (from Tenn) was working with a dealer close out and listed alot of various parts. He mentioned this muffler and SHAZAAMMM!!!! - I got it. That was actually about 2 years before the restoration was completed, which is now 9+ years. And the heat shield, the 169 also used this style as standard. I see these so called "quiet mufflers" and the shield at various sites now, but not specified for the 169. I honestly don't know if they are the same - they show a "nipple" to use as a replacement for the exhaust elbow out of the engine - which is the way mine is set up and likely not correct for my engine. Jim Chabot, IHCC Museum Currator Extrodinaire', restored his 169 with the correct muffler, stubby exhaust pipe, and his muffler has a right angle inlet. The engine uses that funky S shaped exhaust outlet the same as used on the later Quiet Line "AQS" series. And finally, the hour meter on the little side panel was also standard on the 169.
(Did someone mention I was noted for lengthy posts).
Steve B - you must have had your balance gears inserted incorrectly. My K341 runs as smooth as glass
With regard to your Dentist - I refer to mine as my banker - I put money in and just leave it there, hoping one day to recover it.
KenTUCK - I'm glad you mentioned that pic was 10 years old. I don't know if anyone noticed that "green" rearlift bar, somewhat hidden behind the fan and rag joint, which did get comments. I still gon't get the "red" connection tho. And as for what else is in the shed - well the shed is gone since I made the move to the left coast. But since my son is still in Connecticut and picked up a 1650, and I was there 2 weeks ago - AND of course working it over, I GOT THE FEVER AGAIN - THE YELLER AND WHITE FEVERRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRR!!!!!!!!!!!!
Michael M - on the dash and fiberglass question. Sorry I did get a replacement dash. I viewed the original as pretty far gone. However, I have repaired several of them with cracks, and after you've done a few it's almost like magic. I can't speak for the best materials, but I would suggest trying to find a throw away and experiment before working on your own. Also, it is sandable afterward for that perfect appearance - of course sandable primer and final paint work wonders as well. As for replacing a corner, hmmm, not really knowing what I was doing, I think I'd attempt a hidden metal support, or another possibility, is a doaner dash to cut the replacement corner from and mold it together. Maybe KenTUCK will post that "How To" he's been pondering.
(Did I mention I was known for lengthy posts?)
James S - on that handle, as Gerry mentioned there is supposed to be a small set screw, don't know the size off hand but I believe it's supposed to be about 1/2" or 3/4" long (ya it's a longeeee'). It sounds as tho someone is using an stardard screw on yours which leads me to believe the original threads may be shot. Getting the old handle off will take some patience, but Gerry's correct about just keep working it.
Well, I think that covers most of the replies for today. For most of you guys it's already tomorrow but it's only 10PM here on the left coast. So, until we meet again lets remember - be careful out there.
Hydro Harry
Old Cubs Never Die (unless KenTUCK is chasing'em)
(Did someone mention I was noted for lengthy posts).
Steve B - you must have had your balance gears inserted incorrectly. My K341 runs as smooth as glass
KenTUCK - I'm glad you mentioned that pic was 10 years old. I don't know if anyone noticed that "green" rearlift bar, somewhat hidden behind the fan and rag joint, which did get comments. I still gon't get the "red" connection tho. And as for what else is in the shed - well the shed is gone since I made the move to the left coast. But since my son is still in Connecticut and picked up a 1650, and I was there 2 weeks ago - AND of course working it over, I GOT THE FEVER AGAIN - THE YELLER AND WHITE FEVERRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRR!!!!!!!!!!!!
Michael M - on the dash and fiberglass question. Sorry I did get a replacement dash. I viewed the original as pretty far gone. However, I have repaired several of them with cracks, and after you've done a few it's almost like magic. I can't speak for the best materials, but I would suggest trying to find a throw away and experiment before working on your own. Also, it is sandable afterward for that perfect appearance - of course sandable primer and final paint work wonders as well. As for replacing a corner, hmmm, not really knowing what I was doing, I think I'd attempt a hidden metal support, or another possibility, is a doaner dash to cut the replacement corner from and mold it together. Maybe KenTUCK will post that "How To" he's been pondering.
(Did I mention I was known for lengthy posts?)
James S - on that handle, as Gerry mentioned there is supposed to be a small set screw, don't know the size off hand but I believe it's supposed to be about 1/2" or 3/4" long (ya it's a longeeee'). It sounds as tho someone is using an stardard screw on yours which leads me to believe the original threads may be shot. Getting the old handle off will take some patience, but Gerry's correct about just keep working it.
Well, I think that covers most of the replies for today. For most of you guys it's already tomorrow but it's only 10PM here on the left coast. So, until we meet again lets remember - be careful out there.
Hydro Harry
Old Cubs Never Die (unless KenTUCK is chasing'em)
Ken
(I had been thinking about doing a "How To" on fiberglass 'cause I built boat molds in my past life)
that made me chuckle! I worked on molds also for a company down here call pace-ship yachts.It was the most boring job I ever had.months sanding with water paper and filling all the bad spots out of the molds so the imperfections would not show up in the gel coat(finish). after 3 weeks stuck off to the side with a 26 ' sail boat I quite and got called to the office for a talk. they offered a raise and I took it.4 months later I left and they called offering training building boats and another raise. I went fishing (deep sea) 10 days out 24hrs home. Made big money that is hard to get now. 20% income tax and I would clear $1400.00 some trips and 600.00 was considered a broker. Wage for most then was .65 cents and hr lol. a new car was $2500.00. How things change. I could post some samples of fiberglass mat later and boat cloth if some here want to see what it looks like. HAVE A GREAT DAY
(I had been thinking about doing a "How To" on fiberglass 'cause I built boat molds in my past life)
that made me chuckle! I worked on molds also for a company down here call pace-ship yachts.It was the most boring job I ever had.months sanding with water paper and filling all the bad spots out of the molds so the imperfections would not show up in the gel coat(finish). after 3 weeks stuck off to the side with a 26 ' sail boat I quite and got called to the office for a talk. they offered a raise and I took it.4 months later I left and they called offering training building boats and another raise. I went fishing (deep sea) 10 days out 24hrs home. Made big money that is hard to get now. 20% income tax and I would clear $1400.00 some trips and 600.00 was considered a broker. Wage for most then was .65 cents and hr lol. a new car was $2500.00. How things change. I could post some samples of fiberglass mat later and boat cloth if some here want to see what it looks like. HAVE A GREAT DAY
My 50C mower deck needs a new center spindle bearings, if not the whole assembly. So I'm checking the Cub Cadet Parts Lookup and it seems that I would need two bearings (941-3028) and perhaps the housing spindle w/cups (959-3226). I won't know until I take it apart.
But here's my question. The CPE-2 parts list shows the 50C deck having a spindle cap, spindle housing, and the ST-745 ball bearing spindle. The Parts Lookup shows the spindle that I've got which has many more components. Why did Cub Cadet change from the ST-745 spindle to the spindle with many more components?
But here's my question. The CPE-2 parts list shows the 50C deck having a spindle cap, spindle housing, and the ST-745 ball bearing spindle. The Parts Lookup shows the spindle that I've got which has many more components. Why did Cub Cadet change from the ST-745 spindle to the spindle with many more components?
mgonitzke
Well-known member
Roy-
The tapered roller bearings are a LOT cheaper to replace than those ST-745 bearings, which are such a waste. When the bearings go bad, you have to throw away the spindle, too. That "new style" spindle is an update of the the older spindles with the tapered roller bearings. You should be able to take the bearing cone and cup to a bearing retailer like Motion Industries and get replacements.
The tapered roller bearings are a LOT cheaper to replace than those ST-745 bearings, which are such a waste. When the bearings go bad, you have to throw away the spindle, too. That "new style" spindle is an update of the the older spindles with the tapered roller bearings. You should be able to take the bearing cone and cup to a bearing retailer like Motion Industries and get replacements.
