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Archive through May 31, 2010
- Thread starter dross
- Start date
Help Support IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum:
Allen N.,
I have good luck using a gear puller and a small socket to gently push in on the center button, releasing the clutch and allowing you to turn it to align the set screw holes with the basket cutouts.
Ryan Wilke
I have good luck using a gear puller and a small socket to gently push in on the center button, releasing the clutch and allowing you to turn it to align the set screw holes with the basket cutouts.
Ryan Wilke
Dave - One post says it's to close to the frame , another says it hits one tooth. If the dentist isn't in today then maybe you need to look at the other one.
If it's to close to the frame is it possible that there were 2 washers between the frame and spacer and that the washers had stuck to the frame when it was taken off but later got knocked off and not noticed ?
If I have to go empty half of my garage to drag out my 122 and take it a part to look somebody's going to pay ...
If it's to close to the frame is it possible that there were 2 washers between the frame and spacer and that the washers had stuck to the frame when it was taken off but later got knocked off and not noticed ?
If I have to go empty half of my garage to drag out my 122 and take it a part to look somebody's going to pay ...
Just picked up the 122. Had an original owner's manual with it too.
Since this is my first manual trans cub, what are the lever and the other piece in the center of the tunnel?
So, what exactly do I have and what do you think?
Thanks
Jeff
Since this is my first manual trans cub, what are the lever and the other piece in the center of the tunnel?
So, what exactly do I have and what do you think?
Thanks
Jeff
sorry to bother yaaalll again am taking engine out of 149 it won't stop killing misquetos. changed head and gasket,cleaned breather yesterday and it did not help ran for 10 minutes this morning and burnt 1 qt oil. i have a k321a in it I have a case with a broken frame and reman 321as other than having a starter and internal gen i should just have to change some wiring. The motor and acc. should all bolt up shouldn't they? and wisdom will be appreciated Lanny
Thanks for the info that it has creeper gear. That's a plus for a manual tractor.
The only bad part is I don't have a key for it. How many keys did they use around this time? Meaning, what are the chances of finding one that fits?
That's the manual that came with it.
Has anyone copied that manual? If not, I can take pictures of every page.
Jeff
The only bad part is I don't have a key for it. How many keys did they use around this time? Meaning, what are the chances of finding one that fits?
That's the manual that came with it.
Has anyone copied that manual? If not, I can take pictures of every page.
Jeff
1450
1450
I had three days to do one thing and I failed. I removed the engine mounting bolts and the isolation mount bolts as well. The engine WILL move forward. The shaft however: 1. will not move forward; and 2. while it turns, it has situated itself on the canted metal piece at the engine (see pic). When I pulled the engine forward the shaft cannot be coaxed beyond the flex joint so there is zero chance of it coming forward enough to clear the rear housing. Did I ruin the (cup) or can it be squared again in its housing and the shaft reinserted? If it is ruined, now what? I looked in the manual I never saw that coming. Nor did I think that after lifting and pulling the engine forward it would not stay but its mass and the framme and oil pan would cause it to fall back and trap the drive shaft. While the engine is free I am only one person. This appears to be a two person job and surely someone might have mentioned that before I made the attempt without help. I can't push the engine forward, hold the shaft and try to center the metal piece. DRAT! Finally, in the other pic you can see the roll pin at the fan end that was removed. There is a second roll pin. After all of this is it possible that this pin is holding the drive shaft in the rear? It appears to me that the drive shaft should slide without removing that pin. Two things still. CIf I get help can the shaft be coaxed forward by tapping a dowel inserted in the empty roll pin area? What can be done about the shaft receiving area on the PTO end?
1450
I had three days to do one thing and I failed. I removed the engine mounting bolts and the isolation mount bolts as well. The engine WILL move forward. The shaft however: 1. will not move forward; and 2. while it turns, it has situated itself on the canted metal piece at the engine (see pic). When I pulled the engine forward the shaft cannot be coaxed beyond the flex joint so there is zero chance of it coming forward enough to clear the rear housing. Did I ruin the (cup) or can it be squared again in its housing and the shaft reinserted? If it is ruined, now what? I looked in the manual I never saw that coming. Nor did I think that after lifting and pulling the engine forward it would not stay but its mass and the framme and oil pan would cause it to fall back and trap the drive shaft. While the engine is free I am only one person. This appears to be a two person job and surely someone might have mentioned that before I made the attempt without help. I can't push the engine forward, hold the shaft and try to center the metal piece. DRAT! Finally, in the other pic you can see the roll pin at the fan end that was removed. There is a second roll pin. After all of this is it possible that this pin is holding the drive shaft in the rear? It appears to me that the drive shaft should slide without removing that pin. Two things still. CIf I get help can the shaft be coaxed forward by tapping a dowel inserted in the empty roll pin area? What can be done about the shaft receiving area on the PTO end?
jmacdonald
Well-known member
I've got another question about my mod 70. I have installed the Flywheel Pulley w/Clutch Drive assembly and need to install the bearing and locking collar. In my manual it talks about locking the collar to the bearing "In the direction of the crankshaft rotation" The locking collar has two set screw to hold it to the crackshaft, but I cannot see how it locks to the bearing. If I mate the two pieces they just spin? Also could somebody tell me what the engine rotation should be standing in front of the motor? I think it's counter clockwise.
P.S. I can see on both locking collar and bearing that the mating surfaces are machined oval (if that's the correct way to say it)does that mean that my parts have somehow worn to where they will not lock? The engine I removed these from was running a mower ok.
P.S. I can see on both locking collar and bearing that the mating surfaces are machined oval (if that's the correct way to say it)does that mean that my parts have somehow worn to where they will not lock? The engine I removed these from was running a mower ok.
jmacdonald
Well-known member
Jeff the other part to the right of the creeper shift lever is a breather for the creeper housing. Can't tell from the photo, but it looks like the top of yours is missing/broken off.
Gary - That second rear pin holds the coupler to the pump shaft , not the drive shaft. Looks like you need to take the 2 bolts out of the front flex disc , well actually you can only take off the nuts BUT when you do that you should be able to bend the disc and pull it up off the bolts and the bolts will go toward the engine enough that the DANG THING ought to come out.
James - Look real close at the bearing and you'll see it has a concentric ring around it ... that's how it locks.
Jeff - Yeah there's a copy in Charlie's pdf section.
James - Look real close at the bearing and you'll see it has a concentric ring around it ... that's how it locks.
Jeff - Yeah there's a copy in Charlie's pdf section.
Gary Smyth
From your first picture is see the ball is not lined up with the drive shaft and that is what is holding the drive shaft in. I think you will find that the end of the drive shaft is wore(Ring) around the end and unless its squared up it won`t let the drive shaft slide out. my .02
From your first picture is see the ball is not lined up with the drive shaft and that is what is holding the drive shaft in. I think you will find that the end of the drive shaft is wore(Ring) around the end and unless its squared up it won`t let the drive shaft slide out. my .02
Yea. Got a new battery and my mower worked for 20 minutes straight and the belt never jumped off. That beats my former 2010 record by 15 minutes! .
Thanks Ken, Myron, and Jeff and whoever else I forgot. Got another hour and half to go now....
Thanks Ken, Myron, and Jeff and whoever else I forgot. Got another hour and half to go now....
Gary - Take a rope or a bunch of shoe strings and pull the engine forward and tie it off to a tree or door knob or something. Sometimes ya just got to "make" a helper ... I have to all the time.
When I have trouble like that things don't work until I get mad and throw a string of cussing and tools then I get it done.
When I have trouble like that things don't work until I get mad and throw a string of cussing and tools then I get it done.
jmacdonald
Well-known member
Ken I see the concentric ring on both the front of the locking collar and the rear of the bearing, but when I mate them they do not lock. Either the bearing or the locking collar is somehow worn so they wont lock. Don't know how to tell which is worn or both. My quess is that the locking part keeps the bearing from drifting forward while the engine is running? To bad I almost had it all back together.
