kphill
Well-known member
Glad that worked for ya Scott. Here is another tip. Put a thin coat of grease on the o-ring on final assembly. This allows it to slide into place and seat evenly. I think you found the o-rings you were looking for. Kevin
Archive through May 29, 2009
- Thread starter kide
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For what it's worth, when I made the gasket (It's not really a O-ring) for my N.F. hydraulic pump, it ended up being a bit to big. As I installed it, it bunched up at about the last inch, so I snipped it with a pair of sissors, cut out a section and glued it back together with super-glue. Then I just put that joint at the top where it was above the fluid level.
Worked fine!
Worked fine!
On my 1000... doesnt seem like its charging the battery. If I put a freshly charged battery on it and turn it on it still shows a drain. After mowing for a while if I turn it off it wont restart. Is this a voltage regulator problem? Can anyone give me some pointers on where to begin troubleshooting? Thanks, I really like this tractor just need to get it to charge the battery!
kide
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Tristan:
Yes, I'd suspect the regulator first. You say it shows a draw on the battery with everything shut off, but the key on ... if the points are closed, it will show the draw of the coil.
Best check is to get a Digital voltmeter (they're cheap these days) and measure the static voltage of the battery with the key OFF, then measure it with the engine running. If the battery is charged, you should see somewhere around 12.9 volts (it's not real fussy here) and with it running, around 14 volts. If you see no rise in voltage with it running, check the wiring, stator and voltage regulator. I'm sure you are aware of the great wiring diagrams here. You can check the stator for a short to ground by disconnecting the regulator (the internal stator wiring is not normally grounded, based on the schematic). The VR - ? I've never had one of these, but someone may have the forward and reverse resistance measurements on a good one - other than that, it's find a test replacement..
Gotta run, the lawn is waiting..
Yes, I'd suspect the regulator first. You say it shows a draw on the battery with everything shut off, but the key on ... if the points are closed, it will show the draw of the coil.
Best check is to get a Digital voltmeter (they're cheap these days) and measure the static voltage of the battery with the key OFF, then measure it with the engine running. If the battery is charged, you should see somewhere around 12.9 volts (it's not real fussy here) and with it running, around 14 volts. If you see no rise in voltage with it running, check the wiring, stator and voltage regulator. I'm sure you are aware of the great wiring diagrams here. You can check the stator for a short to ground by disconnecting the regulator (the internal stator wiring is not normally grounded, based on the schematic). The VR - ? I've never had one of these, but someone may have the forward and reverse resistance measurements on a good one - other than that, it's find a test replacement..
Gotta run, the lawn is waiting..
Kirk L.
The large one is flat.
The large one is flat.
I aint said nothing but I'm kinda looking forward to what you guys find out about these o-rings for the narow frame hydraulic unit. years ago I remember somebody saying that this unit was used on other makes and some parts were still available there. But I can't find it.
Kendel, thanks for the pointers thats what I was thinking. The drain I see when the key is on I mean when the engine is running it still shows a drain when it should show a charge. The only experience with Kohlers I have is my 129 with a generator, and the volt reg is right there next to the batt (or at least I assume thats what it is). On the 1000 I dont know where the regulator is or the stator. I feel rather dumb asking but can anyone tell me quick were these are located on the tractor? I already see some wire rigging in the PTO switch but I dont think that would cause the lack of charge, but that doesnt mean that more wiring is rigged/bad.
Digger, would a round shape versus a flat o-ring be alright to use?
Dave, I think that Wheelhorses used them as well, I also believe that within the past year that was brought up and think it might be in the archives, but dont know for sure.
Dave, I think that Wheelhorses used them as well, I also believe that within the past year that was brought up and think it might be in the archives, but dont know for sure.
kphill
Well-known member
Scott, If you go to the parts lookup and supersize it, it looks like a flat o-ring. But a round one will probably work if it fills the groove. Also there is no pressure there, It is just a fluid reservoir.
kide
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Tristan:
The Stator is under the flywheel, with the wires coming out and connecting to the regulator.
Section 8 of the Kohler manual covers the AQS style charging system with good troubleshooting info..There's a link in the FAQs to the Kohler website to download the manual..
The Stator is under the flywheel, with the wires coming out and connecting to the regulator.
Section 8 of the Kohler manual covers the AQS style charging system with good troubleshooting info..There's a link in the FAQs to the Kohler website to download the manual..
pocallaghan
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- pauric ocallaghan
Hi folks, first time poster - quick question. I've owned a 124 for a number of years and picked up a nice 127 a month back. I replaced the wiring and having it running well. I'm not all that familiar with hydrostatic so I'd appreciate any general tips people are willing to throw my way along with advice on a specific problem.
The transmission is leaking from somewhere in or around the oil filter. I've taken the filter off and cleaned the seal. No luck. The oil is very clean and the outside of the filter had little dirt on it - leading me to think someone looked at it recently.
The oil does not appear to be coming from above the filter.
Are there any known problem spots in that area someone could point me at. I'm left guessing the P.O. put the wrong filter on there possibly.
Assuming loss of oil on a hydro tranny is not a positive attribute how do I check the level? Are there any sounds I should listen out for in case the P.O. ran it dry.
One weird issue I've noticed is that the transmission will start to creep forward a little after about a minute of being put in to neutral. I have a pond and this 'feature' makes me nervous. Is this simply vibrations knocking the controls along - or a sign of something more problematic. The foot lever will not set the transmission to neutral (I've yet to look at where to adjust that), I have to fine tune a little with the control lever to get it to stop properly after pressing the foot level, but after about a minute it'll creep forward again.
(note I'm calling it a foot lever and not brake for a reason)
Sorry for the rambling series of questions. Its why I try to avoid posting to forums (o;
cheers /pauric
p.s. apologies if I've posted this to the wrong folder in the forum, quite a confusing setup here (o;
The transmission is leaking from somewhere in or around the oil filter. I've taken the filter off and cleaned the seal. No luck. The oil is very clean and the outside of the filter had little dirt on it - leading me to think someone looked at it recently.
The oil does not appear to be coming from above the filter.
Are there any known problem spots in that area someone could point me at. I'm left guessing the P.O. put the wrong filter on there possibly.
Assuming loss of oil on a hydro tranny is not a positive attribute how do I check the level? Are there any sounds I should listen out for in case the P.O. ran it dry.
One weird issue I've noticed is that the transmission will start to creep forward a little after about a minute of being put in to neutral. I have a pond and this 'feature' makes me nervous. Is this simply vibrations knocking the controls along - or a sign of something more problematic. The foot lever will not set the transmission to neutral (I've yet to look at where to adjust that), I have to fine tune a little with the control lever to get it to stop properly after pressing the foot level, but after about a minute it'll creep forward again.
(note I'm calling it a foot lever and not brake for a reason)
Sorry for the rambling series of questions. Its why I try to avoid posting to forums (o;
cheers /pauric
p.s. apologies if I've posted this to the wrong folder in the forum, quite a confusing setup here (o;
kphill
Well-known member
Pauric, It sounds like you have the common hydro problem of the seal between the hydro unit and the rear end leaking. If you go to the vendor sites, It is the gasket that is cork and looks like a large washer with three holes in it all on the same half of the gasket. Doesn't cost much to fix but it is time consuming. Also it sounds like the linkage needs adjusted. As for wear and tear, these hydros are very bulletproof and last a long time so the internals are probably good. Mainly the linkage wears and needs repair. Which is my project for this weekend.
Pauric,
Welcome
You need to make sure you have the proper filter, i.e. one that does NOT have a bypass, like automotive oil filters do. Some of the sponsors above carry them and so should your local cub cadet dealer. There are substitutes Napa, Wix, AC Delco etc., but make 100% sure there is no bypass.
The leak could be coming from above the filter. The release valves and pump to rear end interface gasket are a common places. Clean the hydro/rear end unit off with a degreaser and wipe down. The hydro must be very clean to find the leak location. Two of my hydro’s leak, just not a lot, so I put it off because fixing hydro leaks on narrow frames (127’s and older units) is a pain.
The fluid level is checked on the rear cover plate on the back of the rear end. There should be a pipe plug near the middle of the plate. The fluid should be up to the bottom of this hole (tractor not running).
The hydro unit / brake setup as an adjustment for this creeping problem. You should try to get a service manual which will cover this adjustment. Sorry I can explain too much to type on this one.
Someone might post the fix from the service manual they have scanned.
Jim
Welcome
You need to make sure you have the proper filter, i.e. one that does NOT have a bypass, like automotive oil filters do. Some of the sponsors above carry them and so should your local cub cadet dealer. There are substitutes Napa, Wix, AC Delco etc., but make 100% sure there is no bypass.
The leak could be coming from above the filter. The release valves and pump to rear end interface gasket are a common places. Clean the hydro/rear end unit off with a degreaser and wipe down. The hydro must be very clean to find the leak location. Two of my hydro’s leak, just not a lot, so I put it off because fixing hydro leaks on narrow frames (127’s and older units) is a pain.
The fluid level is checked on the rear cover plate on the back of the rear end. There should be a pipe plug near the middle of the plate. The fluid should be up to the bottom of this hole (tractor not running).
The hydro unit / brake setup as an adjustment for this creeping problem. You should try to get a service manual which will cover this adjustment. Sorry I can explain too much to type on this one.
Someone might post the fix from the service manual they have scanned.
Jim
Hi everybody. I've been gone a while, but I'm back working on my 149. I've got a few questions. First, is the tin on a 14Hp Kohler supposed to look like this:
Looks like it's been hammered in to me, but I can't imagine why anyone would do that. Of course, I have run into all sorts of weird things from previous owners on my Cubs.
Next, what's the trick for removing the S/G pulley/PTO drive basket? Mine is bent and I've got a nice straight one to put on, so I don't care about removing it without damaging it.
Last, has anyone used a brass bolt for a PTO clutch button? Any reason not to?
Thanks!
Looks like it's been hammered in to me, but I can't imagine why anyone would do that. Of course, I have run into all sorts of weird things from previous owners on my Cubs.
Next, what's the trick for removing the S/G pulley/PTO drive basket? Mine is bent and I've got a nice straight one to put on, so I don't care about removing it without damaging it.
Last, has anyone used a brass bolt for a PTO clutch button? Any reason not to?
Thanks!
Little tip for installing or reinstalling the n/f hydro lift unit main flat gasket. I have noticed they become stretched from removal and can be difficult to reinstall. They are really supposed to be replaced every time removed and that seems to be easier said than done these days. I used a $3 window/door screen installation tool and roll it on top of the gasket inside the groove to seat it. Also check for crappy sections of the gasket and try to place them at the top above the fluid line so it is less likely to leak again.
