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Archive through May 25, 2006

IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum

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Just got my 129 Hydro running (after many coil changes).

It seems to run ok but the engine is racing at mid to high RPM and under any sort of load.

I thought I might need to adjust the carb and noticed that it doesn't apper to have the main fuel adjustment screw.

Could this be causing the problem and where can I find this screw.

(Bear with me as I'm pretty new to working on this type of thing)

Thanks,
 
Harry-
Your K181 will probably run just fine without the governor, BUT it won't respond to load like it would with a governor. It's a long process to put the givernor back in, I think you'd have to take the cam out to get at it, which would also mean taking out the crank and taking off the bearing plate as well.

Good luck!
 
Wyatt,

You are correct, all those things need to come out. I have all the parts out and in the cleaning tank. I needed to be sure there was nothing else loose to create some damage. I have obviously been running for quite some time without the governor operational and as you suggested, it ran fine. The 7hp is pretty much under full load most of the time.
 
I was mowing the lawn today with the 147. It started to smoke real bad and it smelled like hot oil. The smoke was coming out of the upper left side. At first I thought it was the breather. I removed the shroud off of the right side of the engine. I started the engine and shined a flashlight in the exposed engine. I was looking at a spot just above the flywheel at the base of the cylinder. I saw a chunk of smoldering something that was glowing red. I drove it back to the garage and took off as many shrouds as I could without pulling the engine. All of the shrouds and bolts looked like they were in the original location. I suspect the engine had never been cleaned. After removing as much has I could and after letting the engine cool for an hour I pressure washed the engine as best as I could. It was packed pretty full. I have heard engines start on fire but I have never come close. I put the engine backed together and finished mowing. It still runs great.
 
hey guys i just hit pay dirt yesterday!
bouncy.gif
My uncles girlfriend had 2 brinly disks, (4) 1 section harrows, and another tooth harrow of som kinda (
bash.gif
having a brain fart whats its called) the one disc was in awesome shape and the one section harrow also (still had the original oliver decal and green paint). just had to dig them out of the dirt been growing int he weeds since her husband passed away 4 years ago. everything for $20 bucks. Put the 147 to work last night playing with everything.
 
So I found a hole where there shouldn't be a hole...

35823.jpg


IS this going to be a problem or am I going to have to do something like JB Weld it closed? I haven't a clue how it could have occurred but I guess it's been there for a while. I just noticed it as I was going to install the valves, kind of a bummer since I thought I was on the home stretch...
 
Tlller belt question...
Looked in archives...
Read and reread the tiller manual..
Mentions different lengths for 400,000 up or down...contact dealer!
No length anywhere.
What is the length of the tiller belt on a 129.

(Message edited by fmorski on May 28, 2006)

(Message edited by fmorski on May 28, 2006)
 
Frank M: There's belts for # 1/1A & #2 tillers that could fit on a 129 ....Which one ya got?? The belts are different. Do you want the info for the PTO belt or the drive belt??

Myron B
CCSupplyRoom
 
Roland:
Thanks for the info. Curious, where did you find that chart. My 1A Manual does not have such a chart. Not in my 129 Manual either.
You would think that the belt lengths would be listed in the tiller manual. These belts are not indestructible.
Thanks again.

Matt K:
Looks like a casting flaw that eventually vibrated open.
Would think that JB WELD would work there since the pressure would be low, since this is where the vent is located.
Frank

(Message edited by fmorski on May 29, 2006)
 
Matt- My K301 also has a hole there. I am guessing that it it supposed to be present.
 
Frank M:

I have had CC Belt charts for a while now and I don't recall exactly who sent that to me.
confused.gif


Myron B and I have been working and exchanging data, trying to keep the Belt Reference Material current and accurate.
35832.gif


Hope that works out for you.

thumbsup.gif
 
Frank M: That extract Roland posted is from the 5/23/01 (or later) Cub Cadet Belt, Blade & PTO Guide. Roland is correct on the length of the 129 PTO belt. The QL's 530,000 - 665,000 use a slightly different belt.

Myron B
CCSupplyRoom
 
Matt- craigs thread is correct,that hole is suppose to be there, the governor gear helps to kick oil into the valve spring area for lubrication.with the engine running most what you get there is oil vapor(what you get coming out the breather)the green filter in the breather condenses this vapor back into oil and everything drains back into the little hole through the cy linder(that hole is in between the lifters,in the back...T
 
Craig & Anthony:

Thanks, I guess that's the good news today.

I'm trying to pull the valve guides back out to their correct depth. A fried pressed them in and went to deep on both of them. I tried to use a 1/4" grade 5 bolt with a nut on the bottom an a socket on top (kind of like the manual shows on how to remove them but not threading them) to pull one back up but all I ended up doing was stripping the threads and now I can't get the bolt out.

I'm not 100% sure you can despise an engine but I'm getting pretty close...
 
Tiller belts continued.....

The local NAPA guys say that an A144 is not designed to twist. They say if I use it in an application like the way the mule drive routes the belt it will not last long. It will tear itself apart. They could not get a green 4L144. They said they don't make them that long. Has anyone used a A144 belt? Have they lasted? I will be calling the local IH dealer tomorrow to see if they have the correct belt on hand.

Also, I installed studs on my rear plate. That way I can easily remove the tiller gearbox. The gearbox is now one nut thickness further away from the mule drive. Will the A144 be too short causing the idlers to rub on the front axle? Should I investigate an A146 instead?

Thanks,
 
Terry-
I checked it out with my Gates design manual, looks like that should be the belt to use, an "A" section with a fabric cover. Automotive-duty belts aren't supposed to twist as the belts in them will fall apart. Industrial/agricultural belts can be used in this fashon, with the caveat that the belt life will be reduced. Gates does provide a design life calculator which takes into account the belt construction, number of idlers, load, operating condition, speed, and twist. With their formula you can arrive at a design life, in hours.

Personlly I don't know too many people that have worn out a tiller belt unless they're the original owner of their tiller or unless they do many gardens per year. You should be fine with the life of the belt.
 
terry..
I've used the napa belts on my mower mule drive, usually last 3 or so seasons... I used a dayton belt from grainger on the rear pto, but i don't put many hrs on it, 'prolly about 20 hrs total in 10 years, belt still looks like new... HTH
 

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