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gxmiller

Member
Joined
Apr 20, 2008
Messages
9
displayname
Gregory X. Miller
Hi, all--
I'll try posting a picture of a 149 I recently dragged home and am working on putting back into service.

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--Gregory Miller
 
<font size="-2">By KENtuckyKEN (Kweaver) on Monday, May 24, 2010 - 06:15 am:

Paul - You take all the fun out of playin with these yankees !
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Ken - Dangit man, don't make me take back your signature line!
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Greg M. -- Nice 149!
It looks to be in fairly good shape, other than missing a seat. Does it run ok?
I really like those front tires....
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Did it come with a mowing deck and dozer blade too? -- TOO COOL!

I gotta ask: Did you get a good deal on it all?
Ryan Wilke
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Kid<sub>e</sub> - There use to be a limit on the posting of messages. I've ran it over before and Dennis has made some windy post and had to make it in two post, and as you know the great Hydro Harry was real good at limiting out.
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I wish that rascal would get back in here.

Lipp - Yeah you're right , I shouldn't have said , "playin with these yankees". I shoulda' said messin with these yankees ... I wouldn't play with a yankee if he had a T-Bone steak tied around his neck !
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Greg Lippert (Glippert) I never have asked you if I could just address you as <font color="0000ff">Lipp</font> but since there's a few Gregs I thought that would be a good short moniker fer ya !
 
One more question about the tiller front drive parts...

I was pulling off the belt last night and realized it seemed a little bigger than my mower belt so I put em side by side. Looks to be a 1/2" belt for the tiller and much larger on the smaller inner flat side too. My deck belt is 3/8" I beleive which matches with the listing in the FAQs. So before I make another mistake here... will the pulleys designed for the smaller belt work with the 1/2" tiller belt? If not then simply straightening out the brackets isnt going to work. The FAQ's also list the 48" deck with the smaller 3/8" belt so not sure if a mule drive for that deck would work either. 38/42" it says 1/2".

Just want to make sure I know exactly what I need and dont go through the trouble and money of getting something that wont work properly.
 
Matt<blockquote><hr size=0><!-quote-!><font size=1>quote:</font>

If it's not running, and the ignition switch is off, there should be no continuity from the battery to the alternator wire.<!-/quote-!><hr size=0></blockquote>

That's right , that's ONE reason I want him to use a test light to see if the key switch is bad.
The SECOND reason is ... well it's kept him busy or lost since yesterday
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Of course he could have used a volt meter but with a light or a buzzer it's easier to use when you're off balance trying to get to hidden wires. It's mighty hard sometimes to see a meter.
 
well, found the right belt for my 125 mower tractor yesterday but it was at a different store location so i have to go and get it today. Not much else goin on with the cubs since its been so hot the last 3-4 days(90s and really humid)
 
I just put a new head gaskett on my 122 and it is leaking all over the place around the edges
trough the bolts on the top I put it on at 25 foot pounds of torque is this correct I started at the midel and went left to right the moved up 1 then L to r then moved down 2 and moved L to r ect. I have herd that you ned to spray silver paint on the gaskets to help them seal (this is what my granpa did the to his super a and it runs fine with no leakage) he also told me to coat it with coper anti seaze lubercant or spray it with coper is any of this correct?
 
Lucas-

Was the gasket surface on the head flat? Did you torque the bolts by the pattern in the manual? I think you need 30 ft-lbs for a K301, but I don't have my manual in front of me.
 
the time has come for me to rebuild the clutch on my 128. the pilot bearing went out i dont know how many years before i bought it, it ended up wrecking the 3 pin drive plate, clutch disk, throwout bearing and teaser spring. the clutch engager lever plus the hanger is worn out also, so new parts have been ordered from the FM ABBOTT CubCadet dealer an hour or so from me. $313 dollars and some change later, the parts should be in by the end of the week.

i will be so glad to have my 128 in top shape for the first time in years. this has mainly been done because i need to use it for the car show/swap meets up the road a ways. wish me luck, im not looking forwards to lifting that k301 but i just have to deal with it lol
 
KentuckyKen (and all)

HAH! Ya know - some people have to go to work! Unfortunately, a night-shifter here. Didn't get home til about 4am. Give me a chance to get a cup or two (or 5!) of coffee in me - then I'll be out there checking on all of your suggestions. I'll let you know what comes of it!
 
Hello fellow enthusiasts, I aquired a very used 127 recently, runs good I hope to tear it down this fall and restore it but it is in use at my first home!. One thing I would like to do is repair the hydrostatic drive (worn out and tends to speed up if you hand is not on the lever) I came across an article on the web about rebuilding the hydro and did not bookmark it and now can't find it any help/hints would be greatly appreciated. Thanks Andy
 
Lucas, follow the torque sequence as given in the manual. Start with 20ft-lbs, go through the sequence, then up to 30ft-lbs and go through the sequence. Use anti-seize on the bolts/nuts. Don't spray anything on the gasket. Run the engine up to temp. Let it cool down overnight. Re-torque the head to spec. Perform heat-cool-torque sequence again. Then you're all set.
 
Hey guys my mod 70, 7hp died a few days ago. Haven't pulled the motor just yet, but as part of my decision process on what to do would a 10hp Kolher drop right in for the time being?
I have a lead on a 10hp Kolher cub cadet motor, not sure what mod it came from. I am thinking the 10hp must be from a model 100 unless Cub cadet used a 10hp in later models.
Any thoughts would be appreciated.
 
they used 10hp engines in 104s, 105s,106s, and 107s as far as narrow frames go. that engine should drop right in without a problem.
 
JAMES, I dropped a K241, 10 HP into my CC 72 about 25 yrs ago. It's almost a "Bolt-in" swap, I had to modity the starter/generator mounting bracket to get the pulleys to line up correctly. The bracket mounts "upside-down" on the 7 HP engines compared to the 10 & bigger, seems like I had to drill a new mounting hole & elongate the other one on my old bracket.

Try to get the bracket with the 10 HP engine if you can. The PTO clutch, throttle & choke cabels, wiring is all fine. The holes in the CC 10 Hp oil pan line right up.
 

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