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Archive through May 23, 2010
- Thread starter mbounds
- Start date
Help Support IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum:
DONALD - Any chance of borrowing a tire/wheel from another CC to use on your loader? ALL the wheel bolt patterns are the same, not like some other brands. The fact there's no fluid wouldn't make that much difference as long as you put your weights back on.
But then I'm allergic to shovel & rake handles.... Done WAY too much of that years ago as a Kid.
I've still got the "original" set of 6-12 GY turfs(Pizza-cutters I always called them!) on the factory wheels from my 72 to use as "spares". Wouldn't they look "Special" on my 982?
But then I'm allergic to shovel & rake handles.... Done WAY too much of that years ago as a Kid.
I've still got the "original" set of 6-12 GY turfs(Pizza-cutters I always called them!) on the factory wheels from my 72 to use as "spares". Wouldn't they look "Special" on my 982?
Dennis Frisk
My loader has 23x10.5x12 super lugs and I don`t have another Tire that stand as high. I wonder if a higher tire on one side would hurt the rear end. I hate to change them both over, But the shovel is a tool I hate to use also.
My loader has 23x10.5x12 super lugs and I don`t have another Tire that stand as high. I wonder if a higher tire on one side would hurt the rear end. I hate to change them both over, But the shovel is a tool I hate to use also.
mgonitzke
Well-known member
Don-
I don't think 2 different size tires on the rear would be very good for the differential, so don't do it for too long.
Dave R.-
It will not work. A spring and a damper do two different things. You can't replace a damper with a spring.
I don't think 2 different size tires on the rear would be very good for the differential, so don't do it for too long.
Dave R.-
It will not work. A spring and a damper do two different things. You can't replace a damper with a spring.
DONALD - I wouldn't run a CC like that all day at a PD with mis-matched tires. But for loading a couple loads of rock on your loader tractor it would be fine. Expect the spare tire to spin more of course, maybe use "body english" or a tire chain.
In actual operation under load you'd be AMAZED how much differential action a diff. does. You never know until it's "gone", like when running a 3020/4020 or newer with the diff lock engaged.
In actual operation under load you'd be AMAZED how much differential action a diff. does. You never know until it's "gone", like when running a 3020/4020 or newer with the diff lock engaged.
kide
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- Gerry Ide
Matt and Don:
The basic issue with two different sizes of tires is that it makes the spider gears spin all of the time - as though you were always turning a corner. While it's not advisable for long term use <font size="-2">(and especially in a car with a teen age driver who might pop the clutch on dry pavement thereby verifying to his Ford mechanic dad that his son had bought a real POS '55 Cheby
)</font>, I don't think short term use on a Cub for loader activity would hurt, especially if the difference in diameter isn't all that great..
Matt: Four springs and four shock absorbers.... hmmmmm..I wonder if RC truck dampers would work???
The basic issue with two different sizes of tires is that it makes the spider gears spin all of the time - as though you were always turning a corner. While it's not advisable for long term use <font size="-2">(and especially in a car with a teen age driver who might pop the clutch on dry pavement thereby verifying to his Ford mechanic dad that his son had bought a real POS '55 Cheby
Matt: Four springs and four shock absorbers.... hmmmmm..I wonder if RC truck dampers would work???
I bought an Original at a yardsale yesterday. It runs and drives. It's painted red which I'll change. Missing the footboards and hood oriment. No deck or mule. This one has a front mounted deck clutch like my 70. Also has the lever on the side simular to my 70 that engauges it. Missing the linkage. All of this looks factory. Is this Original set up to use the same deck as the 70 and 100? Did it use the same mule? Its interesting for I never seen an original like that. My brothers has the square deck. It doesnt have these features.
Have a great day
Michael
Have a great day
Michael
GERRY - You trying to get me sucked into an O/T post or something? about R/C coil-over shocks? All I'll say is even the HEAVIEST settings on our 1/8th scale 4WD buggies would not handle the shakes from a 125# Kohler. The buggy only weighed about 8 to 8-1/2 pounds and had four shocks.
Wear on side gears & "cupcake gears" in the diff are all dependent on load & speed. Remember these diffs were designed & built for FARM duty pulling tillage equip. Not something designed for a golf cart. Biggest failure mode in pulling applications with the diff is the triangluar bearing cap that locates the diff. Under pulling stress the OEM caps have broken. Don won't be beating on his loader THAT hard. Can't say I've ever heard of a CC with a diff. problem.
Only real "Load" will be short duration crowding/loading the bucket, speed will be very VERY slow.
I wouldn't run the tractor all summer that way but one day won't be a problem.
Also, even by 1970, Chevy hadn't fixed the problem with the 10-bolt open diff in my first car. It was GREAT for "one-wheel Peals". Talk about abuse of a diff!
Wear on side gears & "cupcake gears" in the diff are all dependent on load & speed. Remember these diffs were designed & built for FARM duty pulling tillage equip. Not something designed for a golf cart. Biggest failure mode in pulling applications with the diff is the triangluar bearing cap that locates the diff. Under pulling stress the OEM caps have broken. Don won't be beating on his loader THAT hard. Can't say I've ever heard of a CC with a diff. problem.
Only real "Load" will be short duration crowding/loading the bucket, speed will be very VERY slow.
I wouldn't run the tractor all summer that way but one day won't be a problem.
Also, even by 1970, Chevy hadn't fixed the problem with the 10-bolt open diff in my first car. It was GREAT for "one-wheel Peals". Talk about abuse of a diff!
106 questions
how to tell which mower you have without any model tag.
also is wiring diagram correct at this site cubfaq.com/wiringdiagrams/106.jpg.
because i just wired by diagram and had no juice at coil. took wire from pos. battery to coil and had juice (motor runs) cann't get juice from key switch. i think switch is bad, because its got black burn mark on back of switch near temials.
also what causes play in steering wheel turning wheel (1/2 turn) before wheels start to turn.
whats a good place to buy parts from. is there any diagram online of the front pulleys of tractor where belt hooks to tractor to run mower deck. reason i see a spring hanging on right side of tractor from small pulley.
thanks
al
how to tell which mower you have without any model tag.
also is wiring diagram correct at this site cubfaq.com/wiringdiagrams/106.jpg.
because i just wired by diagram and had no juice at coil. took wire from pos. battery to coil and had juice (motor runs) cann't get juice from key switch. i think switch is bad, because its got black burn mark on back of switch near temials.
also what causes play in steering wheel turning wheel (1/2 turn) before wheels start to turn.
whats a good place to buy parts from. is there any diagram online of the front pulleys of tractor where belt hooks to tractor to run mower deck. reason i see a spring hanging on right side of tractor from small pulley.
thanks
al
lfeuerbacher
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- larin feuerbacher
Any one familiar with the IH Cub 125. Found a Cub 125 with 48 inch deck that’s runs pretty good. Deck is solid. The owner will throw in a set of weights with it. it looks to be in really good condition. It does run pretty strong. They will take my my 2007 husqvarna mower with a 20 hp kohler motor with 42 in deck. on trade plus $160.00 The 125 and deck are selling for $500. not sure if this a bit high. I want to replace my husqvarna mower with a garden tractor. Any suggestions???
kide
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- Gerry Ide
Uhhh:
Isn't it KentucK's turn on the help desk???
Allen:
1: Go to the Parts lookup for the 106 and start comparing what you've got with the parts illustrations.
2:Yes - the drawings are correct - or Charlie'll have to ask somebody why..
3:If I were a CSI investigator, I'd probably focus on the switch..
4:Got to the Cubfaqs and read the writeup on rebuilding the steering box and also consider replacing any loose steering rod ends with heim type joints.
5:The business's at the top of the page, for instance CC Specialties would be a logical place to start (and Charlie would be happy with that choice).
6: Again, the parts lookup is a great place to start, along with an owners manual.. Some of the manuals are here..
Isn't it KentucK's turn on the help desk???
Allen:
1: Go to the Parts lookup for the 106 and start comparing what you've got with the parts illustrations.
2:Yes - the drawings are correct - or Charlie'll have to ask somebody why..
3:If I were a CSI investigator, I'd probably focus on the switch..
4:Got to the Cubfaqs and read the writeup on rebuilding the steering box and also consider replacing any loose steering rod ends with heim type joints.
5:The business's at the top of the page, for instance CC Specialties would be a logical place to start (and Charlie would be happy with that choice).
6: Again, the parts lookup is a great place to start, along with an owners manual.. Some of the manuals are here..
kide
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Larin:
There's this one guy, Kraig, who'll tell you all about the 125's status as the best garden tractor ever made.....
The price question is tough...I think the one question you should resolve first is whether you are mechanically inclined, have at least a basic set of tools and access to parts when you need 'em (a CCC dealer or good brown truck delivery). You would be taking on a 35 year old piece of equipment, that unless it has been sitting in a showroom for that length of time, will have wear on all of it's components. If you are still in the game, and you think the tractor is in good shape, you'll have to determine what your actual out-of pocket cost will be (trade-in of your 3 year old lawn mower plus cash) and then compare it against the going price (check the want ad section here for tractors for sale in the last few months...). In 1985, I spent $800.00 for a 12 year old 129 w/deck and push blade and still feel I stole it from a friend!!
There's this one guy, Kraig, who'll tell you all about the 125's status as the best garden tractor ever made.....
The price question is tough...I think the one question you should resolve first is whether you are mechanically inclined, have at least a basic set of tools and access to parts when you need 'em (a CCC dealer or good brown truck delivery). You would be taking on a 35 year old piece of equipment, that unless it has been sitting in a showroom for that length of time, will have wear on all of it's components. If you are still in the game, and you think the tractor is in good shape, you'll have to determine what your actual out-of pocket cost will be (trade-in of your 3 year old lawn mower plus cash) and then compare it against the going price (check the want ad section here for tractors for sale in the last few months...). In 1985, I spent $800.00 for a 12 year old 129 w/deck and push blade and still feel I stole it from a friend!!
That is it i'm done, I am tired of try to get a 149 or newer cub with hydro tranny and hydro lift and being beat out before I can even get to it. this makes number 4. I was 20 minutes away from a 1450 and all it needed was a new drive shaft and fan.
Sorry guys just venting, I am getting tired of losing out.
Maybe back, or may just sell everything I have and let that be that.
Sorry guys just venting, I am getting tired of losing out.
Maybe back, or may just sell everything I have and let that be that.
GERRY - Do you realize I was severely scolded for suggesting to replace the tierod ends with heim joints here years ago? Think it was 9-10 yrs ago, and those heim joints I installed back in 1985 are still as tight as the day I installed them, which is WAY tigheter than most new ball/socket joints.
ALLEN - Gerry gave you good advice on all your questions. Easy way to determine your deck size/model is to flip deck upside-down. Measure from blade tip to blade tip of the outermost blades with the blades "in line". It should measure either 38, 42, or 48" wide. A quick check of the parts look-up for mower details should pin-point your deck even if it's been changed in the last 40 years. The 38 & 42 in. decks were either "cast Iron" end decks, or "Stamped end" decks. This stamped end 38 or 42" deck is most likely what you have. There was a 38" 2-blade deck but doubt you have one of those. There's three types of 48" decks. And there's a slim but remote chance you could have a 44 or 50 in deck.
LARIN - Your seller wants $500 for the 125, mower, & weights, and still wants $160 to boot PLUS your three year old 20 HP mower in trade for a 40 yr old CC? Sounds like your new mower depreciated a LOT. Nobody here will comment on if that's a good deal or not, it's against the rules here. But many will say a 125 CC is one of the BEST CC's ever made. If it's a good deal is totally dependent on you and the seller and too many other factors to mention here.
ALLEN - Gerry gave you good advice on all your questions. Easy way to determine your deck size/model is to flip deck upside-down. Measure from blade tip to blade tip of the outermost blades with the blades "in line". It should measure either 38, 42, or 48" wide. A quick check of the parts look-up for mower details should pin-point your deck even if it's been changed in the last 40 years. The 38 & 42 in. decks were either "cast Iron" end decks, or "Stamped end" decks. This stamped end 38 or 42" deck is most likely what you have. There was a 38" 2-blade deck but doubt you have one of those. There's three types of 48" decks. And there's a slim but remote chance you could have a 44 or 50 in deck.
LARIN - Your seller wants $500 for the 125, mower, & weights, and still wants $160 to boot PLUS your three year old 20 HP mower in trade for a 40 yr old CC? Sounds like your new mower depreciated a LOT. Nobody here will comment on if that's a good deal or not, it's against the rules here. But many will say a 125 CC is one of the BEST CC's ever made. If it's a good deal is totally dependent on you and the seller and too many other factors to mention here.
kide
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Eric:
Maybe you're getting beat out by people that read he Forum ??? Nah- that wouldn't happen.. You'll just have to be faster.... Sell Out??? What're you talking about? - sounds like the owner of some other color tractors.....
Maybe you're getting beat out by people that read he Forum ??? Nah- that wouldn't happen.. You'll just have to be faster.... Sell Out??? What're you talking about? - sounds like the owner of some other color tractors.....
No I don't have any other tractor, I am just getting frustrated because the models that have the hydro tranny and hydro lift are far and few around here.
I am just a my whits end. I guess it is just not in the cards for me to get what I need and or what I want. I did however find another but I think they are asking to much. 850.00 to me that is to high, and some body is trying to sell a 1650 on craigslist in NC for 1500.00
I am just a my whits end. I guess it is just not in the cards for me to get what I need and or what I want. I did however find another but I think they are asking to much. 850.00 to me that is to high, and some body is trying to sell a 1650 on craigslist in NC for 1500.00
ERIC - Are these CC's on Craigs list? or newspaper ads? Are you calling these people? Are they saying something like "First one here with $$$$ gets the tractor? Maybe you should run a "Wanted to BUY" ad. Have you posted a want ad here? Have you checked any local L&G equip. dealers for older CC's on the back lot? Any ag equip. dealers having consignment sales/suctions in your area?
When I bought my CC 72 thirty yrs ago I looked for tractors in the paper for a couple months. Bought the first one that was advertised. I could have bought dozens of 2-3 yr old green tractors in that time, but took the 12 yr old CC. I also looked for over a year before buying my 982. Looked at a 2072 at an auction, waited around ALL Day for the tractor, mower, snow blower & chains, three sets of mower blades to sell for WAY less than it was worth but WAY more than I could afford. I did have the next-to-last big BTW. Year later I offered more money, but still way less than asking price for a bare (no 3-pt, rear PTO) 1872, P-O'd the seller and we both walked away mad. Few months later My Buddy & I found MY 982 at a tractor show, rebuilt engine, all new paint, tires, etc.
When I bought my CC 72 thirty yrs ago I looked for tractors in the paper for a couple months. Bought the first one that was advertised. I could have bought dozens of 2-3 yr old green tractors in that time, but took the 12 yr old CC. I also looked for over a year before buying my 982. Looked at a 2072 at an auction, waited around ALL Day for the tractor, mower, snow blower & chains, three sets of mower blades to sell for WAY less than it was worth but WAY more than I could afford. I did have the next-to-last big BTW. Year later I offered more money, but still way less than asking price for a bare (no 3-pt, rear PTO) 1872, P-O'd the seller and we both walked away mad. Few months later My Buddy & I found MY 982 at a tractor show, rebuilt engine, all new paint, tires, etc.
kide
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Dennis:
I agree - patience!! I started harassing the guy I bought my 129 from for not buying a 149 almost as soon as I got it (always told him he should let me spec his equipment for him) and didn't end up with a 149 until 2007 (<font size="-2">and I'll have that running again "any day now" -</font>) which was a span of 22 years!!
I agree - patience!! I started harassing the guy I bought my 129 from for not buying a 149 almost as soon as I got it (always told him he should let me spec his equipment for him) and didn't end up with a 149 until 2007 (<font size="-2">and I'll have that running again "any day now" -</font>) which was a span of 22 years!!
GERRY - It's REAL easy to spend other people's money, Biggest, best, ALL the options, etc. But I have a horrible problem writing those BIG numbers down long-hand on checks. ;-)
I tried to buy the 1872 I mentioned with CASH, small stack of $100 bills. Didn't work! Would not have upset me but the Guy bragged about WHAT a deal he got on his New mower to my wife as I was doing the test drive on the 1872.
ANYHOW, I treated the Wife to ice cream on the way home.... since I had the money.
I tried to buy the 1872 I mentioned with CASH, small stack of $100 bills. Didn't work! Would not have upset me but the Guy bragged about WHAT a deal he got on his New mower to my wife as I was doing the test drive on the 1872.
ANYHOW, I treated the Wife to ice cream on the way home.... since I had the money.
