New member here:

[Bennywerner]

I have owned a Cub 1811 for about 20 years, 1250 hrs, new Kohler twin motor at about 780 hrs. Lent it out for six years, just got it back. Have snow plow and garden cart. Hydro Tran was acting up mowing, severe vibrations when shifting from backward to forward, had to slow down engine and it would settle down and be fine, it would do it several times in a half hour. last time I mowed it would not stop vibrating then no response from tranny. Now when I start it it sounds like a thrown rod or something, when in neutral, very loud noise. any ideas? Thx one and all.

 

[wh cc guy]

Welcome to the group. Can't help with transmission but someone here can.

 

[mgwin]

Welcome to the forum!
Hate it's under these circumstances though.
It may be too late for this, but has the filter and fluid been changed lately?

 

[Bennywerner]

Welcome to the forum!
Hate it's under these circumstances though.
It may be too late for this, but has the filter and fluid been changed lately?

Yes, changed in spring. I worked some on it today, the shear pin broke where the engine driveshaft connects to the tranny(after the rubber absorbing discs.)Lots of metal shavings, shaft very loose, been vibrating, noticed hitting the filter some. Will need to replace worn parts somehow. Wondering why was it vibrating so much, why broke? it was vibrating when mowing periodically when shifting from reverse to forward etc. strange

 

[mgwin]

It could have vibrated due to a lot of stuff loose/worn, kinda flopping around.
Definitely time for some TLC.
CCSpecialties icon at the top of the page can get you the good quality stuff you need fast.

 

[Bennywerner]

Yes, changed in spring. I worked some on it today, the shear pin broke where the engine driveshaft connects to the tranny(after the rubber absorbing discs.)Lots of metal shavings, shaft very loose, been vibrating, noticed hitting the filter some. Will need to replace worn parts somehow. Wondering why was it vibrating so much, why broke? it was vibrating when mowing periodically when shifting from reverse to forward etc. strange

What’s the safest way to tow it from yard to garage, about 60 ft

 

[mgwin]

There should be a release lever to allow you to tow it.

 

[Doug Rusk]

I dont think there is a release lever on an 1811? The 682 I bought when the cub bug first struck wouldn't run when I bought it so had to winch it on trailer. With some research I found that you were to tow or move them slowly to avoid damage to the hydro on that model/era cub. In fact I think there was a still partially readable decal on the tunnel cover to that effect. I would assume an 1811 would be similar since it was basically a 682/782 with different paint and decals?

 

[mgwin]

You would think there would be a release somewhere.

 

[mgonitzke]

Everything after about halfway through the QL series, including the 82 series and the 1811, has automatic release valves. There is no lever. Just roll the tractor slowly and don't tow it and it'll be fine.

 

[Jay Fetters]

Everything after about halfway through the QL series, including the 82 series and the 1811, has automatic release valves. There is no lever. Just roll the tractor slowly and don't tow it and it'll be fine.

Matt, on the ql series, do you have to hold the lever up while you're towing, or just pull it up and let go? Before I went through my 1650 with a new harness and all new ignition system, I had to tow it almost every time I got it out. I had my bride sit on it and after while holding the hydro release. Just curious if that was necessary. BTW, it was towed from wherever in the yard it broke down back to my shop with my xt2, so no high speed, low drag shenanigans.

 

[mgwin]

How does the auto release work? Does it automatically release when it's not running?

 

[mgonitzke]

Matt, on the ql series, do you have to hold the lever up while you're towing, or just pull it up and let go? Before I went through my 1650 with a new harness and all new ignition system, I had to tow it almost every time I got it out. I had my bride sit on it and after while holding the hydro release. Just curious if that was necessary. BTW, it was towed from wherever in the yard it broke down back to my shop with my xt2, so no high speed, low drag shenanigans.

Yes, you have to hold it up. The buttons on the valves are spring loaded.

How does the auto release work? Does it automatically release when it's not running?

They release when pressure is generated by the "motor" side of the hydro unit.

 

[RobDunbar1966]

Question for this thread. I split my 105 to replace the drive shaft, coupler, and flex disc. While I had it split, I thought I would lube the unloading hydro-release valves. One of them releases and pops back up almost immediately after pushing it in, the other stays down. Is this normal? Will it release after there is a fluid load behind it? I soaked them with WD40 and hit them with a soft wire brush.

 

[RAllison]

It should and probably will pop right back up under pressure.

 

[RobDunbar1966]

It should and probably will pop right back up under pressure.

Thank you. I would hate to put this back together only to find I need to split it again.

 

[RAllison]

Thank you. I would hate to put this back together only to find I need to split it again.

I hear ya..LOL I don't know how many times I've done that!