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Archive through May 23, 2004

IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum

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cosborne

Member
Joined
Apr 10, 2007
Messages
20
displayname
Chris Osborne
Hello all.

Questions about using a blade on a 149.

What length is the lift bar supposed to be? I have one that's 32.25" and its too long to even get it mounted. If I use the 27" off the snow thrower then I can't get the blade to go low enough.

When the float pin is moved to the lock position is it normal for the cotter pin look like it will hit the cooling fan - sure comes close. And do others just move this pin or also insert a second pin to make the linkage tighter?

PS ThomasH - pushed some dirt around today....
 
question for the group: What dozer blade sizes are common for narrow frames?
dm
 
Calvin O.: Make an adjustable rod out of a piece of pipe, a couple of nuts and some threaded rod. Someone may havea picture.
 
I.H. Paint #901 for older C.C. I.H. Paint # 935
for a 149 C C, is their much different in the white colors?
 
Calvin O - Make yourself an adjustable lift rod as described in the FAQ section and you won't have any problems. JMHO
 
Had a good cub day saturday. Went to an auction that listed a cub cadet lawn tractor and loader. The cub turned out to be a 100 with trailer fenders on it and the loader was a rusted solid danco loader with trip bucket full of rust holes that was supposed to fit the 100. I had my doubts. Pump was froze, single spool valve froze and single action cylinders froze. I let it go to a wheel horse guy but the 100 had a surprise with it. Along with the 100 was a tub full of stuff. In the stuff was a 16A hydraulic pump setup "complete" and in great shape.

Made it worth the long trip. ALso there was a brinley plow with extra hitch parts and a trip blade snow plow in fair shape.

The 100 will be an organ donor in the near future.

Trip blade plow will find its way to e-bay.

ALso got a disc that fits the sleeve hitch but not sure what brand.

I have never seen a trip bucket danco loader before. All that I have seen were dual action cylinders on both the main frame and the bucket

The seller was a little untruthful on another purchase. I picked up a steam cleaner that he said had a good coil...wrong answer. Everything works except the coil has holes in it from apparently freezing up.

Was hoping to get a good cub cleaning tool.
 
Wyatt, nice job on posting that high resolution photo. :eek:)

Don D. nice job on the seat cover!

Owen, there have been several beefed up steering spindle setups posted, I'll dig out some photos and try to get them posted today.

I'm sure glad I live on high ground, around 200' above the St. Croix river. Hope everyone dries out OK.

I don't think the adjustable lift rod is in the FAQ, here is one version.
19058.jpg
 
Here's another version that has more adjustability but is a bit odd looking.
19060.jpg
 
Dan M., 42" is what <FONT COLOR="ff0000">I</FONT><FONT COLOR="000000">H</FONT> made for the Cub Cadets later they offered a 54" blade for use with the 14hp 1450 and 16hp model 1650. The early 54" blade will work on the older wideframe Cubs and with the correct subframe on a narrow frame Cub. FWIW, the SGT or "Super Garden Tractor" also have a 54" blade that will mount to them but they have a much different subframe.
 
Owen, here are a few photos of modified spindles, please note that these are for a wide frame front axle. I think these were done by Nate F. for his loader Cub.
19062.jpg


19063.jpg


19064.jpg


Dave K2 also modified some front spindles for his "Loader Mutt" I'll see if I can find them and post them.
 
Kraig,

Top 2 pics are mine (modeled after Nate's).....Nate"s "original" is the bottom cardboard pic.
 
Steve, thanks for keeping me honest. :eek:)

Owen, for the steering box Richard C. posted an upgrade that might be helpful here's the first portion of it.
<blockquote><hr size=0><!-quote-!><font size=1>quote:</font>

Jack Moore
I don't have any experience with steering assemblies on the Original or earlier version Cubs but have worked on quite a few of the Wideframe steering assemblies and would have to disagree with you on it being a weak point. Most of them have been abused for the last 20 to 30 years and are still working with a little slop and some grease on them. There probably isn't a single lawn tractor at Lowes or Sears that will probably be running with a steering assembly as tight as the Cubs in 10 years. There are a couple of problems but they are easly fixed.<!-/quote-!><hr size=0></blockquote>

19066.jpg


<blockquote><hr size=0><!-quote-!><font size=1>quote:</font>

When I clean the 30 year old grease out of them I normally find the shaft and bearings in good condition.

Quite often I find the side plate warped, probably when they welded the bolt on it at the factory. Put a straight edge on it to check and straighten in a press till it is straight.
Replace the cam follower or sometimes I redress it by putting it in my drill press and use a file and emery cloth to reshape it.<!-/quote-!><hr size=0></blockquote>

19067.jpg
 
Owen, here's the rest of Richard's post.
<blockquote><hr size=0><!-quote-!><font size=1>quote:</font>

When I reassemble it I put on a new gasket and attach the side plate with a washer, a thrust bearing (Nice605), washer, and a lock nut. Adjust the lock nut until the gasket starts to compress. (I got that thrust bearing idea from Donald Mayes and it has made the steering much easier to adjust and improves handling). This isn't power steering but it ain't bad.... <!-/quote-!><hr size=0></blockquote>

19069.jpg


Kevin D., Nick told me all about his 782D.

<blockquote><hr size=0><!-quote-!><font size=1>quote:</font>

Some Additional comments on Cub steering repair. I was posting late last night and this morning I thought of a few more suggestions for someone who is doing a steering repair for the first time. I tried to follow the Service manual and adjust the steering assembly while on the tractor. Just wouldn't work, the more I adjusted the worse it got. You need to remove it to do it right. It is easy to remove if you don't have the hydraulic controls mounted on the steering column. Thats why I always recommend rebuilding your steering assembly if you have the engine removed.
Get all of the old grease out and be careful not to lose any of the ball bearings as they will pop out of the plastic holder, if they do just put them back in.
Check for any pits on the steering shaft that might wear on the cam. Use a file and emery cloth to dress it up.
If you get your side plate straight it should get good adjustment over the range and the grease seal will make better contact. If you look at the picture of the side plate I posted you can see the paint isn't worn even indicating the seal wasn't touching at the ends of travel.
When you put it back together follow the manual and make the adjustments on the bench.
If you use the thrust bearing you cannot use the two nuts so you need to get one lock nut.
Leave the cam adjustment loose while you tighten the lock nut until the seal starts to compress. Then adjust the cam while rotating the steering from one side to the other. It is not perfect so you need to adjust for the best from one limit to the other.
Again I would like to say that I got the Thrust bearing idea from Donald Mayes and so far it has worked good.
Richard C.
<!-/quote-!><hr size=0></blockquote>
 
hello
Is there a chart that would list the belt size or part number for a model 104. I have an owners manual and it doesn't list the belt that drives the mower deck. I bought the cub at a yard sale a couple of years ago and I'm sure the belt it just ate is not the right one for the mower.
Thanks in advance for any help

Charlie.
 
Bryan, feel free to delete my post, or rather, please do so. I thought it was funny that I had it set up in a Word Document rather than just Notepad. I forgot I put the file together for you to put in the FAQ. Remember, I'm getting old and forgetful. :eek:)
 
Kraig -

Might as well leave it here. Nobody reads the FAQ anyway...
wink.gif
 
Just thought I would say hello to everyone. I have just joined and looking forward to learning about my 1450 IH/cub. It was given to me by my father-in-law when he bought a 60" cut green painted tractor. I have 44" deck, 42" front blade and the snow thrower. I rebuilt the mower deck last year and the tractor mows great. I need to do the hydro repair outlined in the FAQ (and yes I did read them) I also built a small cable plow for installing invisable dog fence. It worked pretty good but is only on its second revision, pictures to follow soon.

Tony K.
 

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