Archive through May 21, 2007

[rwilke]

<blockquote><hr size=0><!-quote-!><font size=1>quote:</font>

By KENtuckyKEN (Kweaver) on Monday, May 21, 2007 - 09:54 am:

John - If it makes you feel any better, Dan's Cub isn't "correct" if ya think about it.<!-/quote-!><hr size=0></blockquote>

KENtuckyKEN,
I give up -- what isn't correct about Dan's Cub? (I feel like I'm doing a "Find the Hidden Word Puzzle")...... You aren't referring to the type of tires, are you?
Ryan W

 

[kmcconaughey]

Ryan, the paint is perfect!

 

[rwilke]

John L.,
Thanks for sharing the additional pics, providing an explanation for your front "spoiler" and the background info regarding the rear fender reflectors!

I have to say again,,, THAT'S ONE FINE CUBBIE, JOHN!!

Ryan W

 

[hcole]

jlang, thanx, did you fabricate those front tines or are those a factory made thing? I have a later version of brinly's cultivator and your's is MUCH gooder than mine I am green with envy .

 

[cscannon]

Yesterday I did a tune up on my K301 and now the motor has a loud knocking/Rattling noise that speeds up and slows down in correlation with the RPM’s. What I did was replace the spark plug, high tension wire, condenser, points and rod. I used my timing light and set the timing per the IH service manual ( S mark centered in the sight hole). I have not adjusted the valves yet. The noise was not there before I did the tune up. The only thing that I can think of that might be causing it is the rod that goes between the came and the points. I did not put any kind of lubricant on it. Does the rode require any? If so, what kind? Oil, grease, engine lube?

Thanks

Chris C.

 

[jlang]

Thanks guys, Craig I know Dan used his tracors some, He even used his 4 wheel drive cc100 at least once at plowday.

henri cole (Hcole)

Yes, those are factory Brinly hiller blades. I bought two NOS boxes of them at a plow day. The wrapping-packing newspaper in the box was from the Kansas City Star, Sunday, July 26, 1981.
Here's the Brinlyu part numbers.
B-331 Blade, hiller R.H.
B-332 Blade, hiller L.H.

Brinly made lots of accesories their cultivator & tool bars.

 

[digger]

Henri,
They are factory made. Here's an old Brinly display rack with the original shovels & blades I picked up at auction a while back.

 

[kweaver]

Ryan - Ground engagement attachment with turff tires and not even a wheel weight.

John - Thanks. Now I know what those points are I've had one for years and thought it was some kind of walk behind turning blade.

 

[dfrisk]

CHRISTOPHER - The pushrod for the points gets splashed with engine oil from inside the engine. It passes thru an o-ring stuffed into a machined groove in the pushrod hole. No oil should be allowed around the points themselves. A very small amount of hi-temp grease can be applied to where the pushrod touches the points and on the pivot pin.
What You may be hearing is spark knock from carbon build-up in the combustion chamber. You didn't specifically say but it sounds like this knock is present both at low & high RPM and low and high load. Is that correct? Did You change anything else besides the plug, wire, points, condensor, & pushrod?

 

[jyaeger]

Hi, my grandpa had a cc 127 that i rode around as a kid and it seemed huge. wondering if that is considered a wide or a narrow frame. Also, is that particular model any more or less rare than some of the others? how about mounting a sickle bar on it?

 

[jlang]

TALKING ABOUT SEATS HERE!

Here's my correct seat for the 122 or 123.

Bottom side looks pretty good, right?
It is stamped:
FOR INT. HARVESTER 394127-R91
TRACTOR SEAT ASSY

IH called them "deluxe contoured seats of vineyl plastic with foam rubberr cushion".

The foam rubber cushion is covered with a white vinyl embosed material thata did not stand the test of time.

Photo coming up right away.

 

[hcole]

Charlie, the factory is down here in Ky; so I'm wondering how all those parts got way up there where you are, did they have dealerships back years ago?

 

[jlang]

Here's the top side. It needs a little work!

 

[rwilke]

John Y.,
WELCOME TO THE CC FORUM!
Your Grndpappy's 127CC would have been a narrow frame CC garden tractor (GT). Check them all out here: http://cubfaq.com/modellist.html
I wouldn't call a 127 model Cub rare. Obviously the better the condition and the more optional equipment on it makes it a more desired GT; such as hydraulic lift system, headlights, 3-point hitch, etc. A 127 Cub came from the factory equipped with a 12HP Kohler 1-cylinder air-cooled engine and a hydrastatic transmission; whereas a 126 Cub was a 12HP GT equipped with a gear-drive/clutch transmission. Many fellas that do "pulling events" prefer the gear-drive model Cub GTs.

Now I'd say a sickle bar cutter would be more of a collector piece.....
Ryan W

 

[rwilke]

John L.,
Looking at that Cub seat of yours.... it's nothing that a couple of tubes of RTV silicone (floated into all those cracks) couldn't fix!!!

Ryan W

 

[kweaver]

John - Those cracks are reffered to as "gas vents"!

 

[dplogman]

Myron-Dave P here with the no start 122. I bought a switch today, before I tear it open, had a quick question- On the testing procedure you described, (back on a May 16th archive now)those tests were done ignition switch ON, but not cranking the starter, yes? Thats what I did. Thanks, Dave

 

[kweaver]

David - Yep

 

[cscannon]

DENNIS
I hear the noise best a lower RPM’s, mainly because the motor/exhaust is quieter. However, as the RPM’s going up, the sound speeds up. Once I get to full throttle, almost all of the noise is drowned out. I was planning on pulling the head and de-carboning the motor. I have a new head gasket I purchased when I bought the tune up parts.

The only thing I changed was the plug, wire, points, condenser and pushrod. It’s just weird that the sound did not start until after I made those changes.
Since making those changes, the tractor idles a little higher and smoother. Also, the motor has a little bit more power.

Any tips for de-carboning the combustion chamber?

Chris C

 

[kmcconaughey]

John L., you can have that seat recovered it will have a seam in it but it'll look good and work well. Cost isn't cheap about $50 plus shipping. Here's a photo of one I had redone. BTW, feel free to *give* that cracked old seat to me.