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Archive through May 21, 2005
- Thread starter thoffman
- Start date
Help Support IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum:
I'm in the process of repainting my 782. I've already painted the frame with the proper case IH brand red paint with spray cans a month ago.
I pealed of the decals on the hood and used lacquer thinner on the glue residue to soften it up. I've noticed that the thinner didn't do nothing to the paint except for make it shine a bit more. I've tried some thinner on my frame in an inconpicus area and found that it dulled it and some paint came off on the rag.
Is the factory paint a different formula than that of a spray can? Or was the paint coming off because the paint is still releasing chemicals as it's drying harder?
To paint the hood, fenders, and side panel I plan on buying a quart of Red from my local IH dealer and spraying it at my friends farm with his air compressor. Do I need some kind of hardener? If so what kind should I use?
Jim
I pealed of the decals on the hood and used lacquer thinner on the glue residue to soften it up. I've noticed that the thinner didn't do nothing to the paint except for make it shine a bit more. I've tried some thinner on my frame in an inconpicus area and found that it dulled it and some paint came off on the rag.
Is the factory paint a different formula than that of a spray can? Or was the paint coming off because the paint is still releasing chemicals as it's drying harder?
To paint the hood, fenders, and side panel I plan on buying a quart of Red from my local IH dealer and spraying it at my friends farm with his air compressor. Do I need some kind of hardener? If so what kind should I use?
Jim
Jim (Jstorma),
The dif is your dealing with 20 year old paint that has been curing all that time.
And there's a HUGE difference in rattle can and straight paint formulas.
Which hardner, depends on the conditions your painting in and what paint and reducer your going to use.
The dif is your dealing with 20 year old paint that has been curing all that time.
And there's a HUGE difference in rattle can and straight paint formulas.
Which hardner, depends on the conditions your painting in and what paint and reducer your going to use.
My 129 started to speed up by itself while mowing today. I had just tightened the friction clamp a few weeks ago so I knew the plastic friction sleeve was about shot. I went to replace it and couldn't get the shaft to slide out of the clamp. According to TC-157 there should not be anything holding it, and besides by the s/n, it supposed to have the later style. I found an e-clip and spacer on the bottom of the shaft. My question is, how many different styles were there and is the parts book wrong on when they were changed? My brothers 3/72 109 that I changed last year was the early style like the book shows and my 149 which is a 169 chassis which it's s/n makes it a 8/74 model also has the clamp style. I am guessing my parts manual dated 3/92 has the wrong serial number break and is missing the intermediate style. I guess another case of reading the manual and it is wrong.
Well, I guess I should have looked in my service manual #GSS-1464 to solve my problems. It shows the style of friction assembly that my 129 has but it still does not show my brothers style on his 109. I guess between the 2 books, all 3 styles are shown.
Wes H,
Ya know! they say the mind is the first thing to go after you start talkin to yourself and getting straight answers back!
Ya know! they say the mind is the first thing to go after you start talkin to yourself and getting straight answers back!
Charlie,
I know the mind is the first thing to go. If I would have looked in both manuals before typing the first post, I would have had the answer before asking. But at least it is back up and running properly. The old sleeve was paper thin. I have lots of adjustment on the clamp now.
I know the mind is the first thing to go. If I would have looked in both manuals before typing the first post, I would have had the answer before asking. But at least it is back up and running properly. The old sleeve was paper thin. I have lots of adjustment on the clamp now.
... guess that 782D @ the museum isnt all original, but a restoration... note the new deck on her, repainted white, rather than the stock yellow they only come in now!
...oh and i may sound ignorant, but whats up with the 'patio' tractors in different colors?
...oh and i may sound ignorant, but whats up with the 'patio' tractors in different colors?
Alan B,
Did ya search the FAQ's. grin
<font color="ff0000">Please check the Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ) before posting your question - perhaps it has already been answered there.</font>
Did ya search the FAQ's. grin
<font color="ff0000">Please check the Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ) before posting your question - perhaps it has already been answered there.</font>
Alan I don't believe the faq actually answers your questions as it refers to the "hydro creep". It doesn't talk about "what if the hydro seems too sensitive".
How long have you had your 1450? After I replace the springs on my hydro, it seemed very sensitive but I realized I just wasn't used to the change the new springs made. Now I'm used to it. My wife or son can get on the tractor and they'll jerk the heck out of it til they get used to the sensitivity.
How long have you had your 1450? After I replace the springs on my hydro, it seemed very sensitive but I realized I just wasn't used to the change the new springs made. Now I'm used to it. My wife or son can get on the tractor and they'll jerk the heck out of it til they get used to the sensitivity.
sblunier
Well-known member
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- Aug 4, 2006
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- displayname
- Steve Blunier "Mr. Plow" (Central IL)
Adrian, Alan,
Hydro:
Check ALL of the linkages for slop. the xx50 machines can develop A LOT of slop over the years in the linkage under the dash, especially if you have an early production machine with the "bent rod" linkage instead of the "rod end" linkage under the dash.
After that look for slop in the cam plate cam slot and pin.
Tighten up whatever you can find that's sloppy, then perform the "N" (neutral) adjustment as outlined in the service manual.......
....and rebuild the trunion as detailed in the FAQ while you are in there too.....
Hydro:
Check ALL of the linkages for slop. the xx50 machines can develop A LOT of slop over the years in the linkage under the dash, especially if you have an early production machine with the "bent rod" linkage instead of the "rod end" linkage under the dash.
After that look for slop in the cam plate cam slot and pin.
Tighten up whatever you can find that's sloppy, then perform the "N" (neutral) adjustment as outlined in the service manual.......
....and rebuild the trunion as detailed in the FAQ while you are in there too.....
Adrian G,
You might want to read all the pages on the hydro creep thing.
<blockquote><hr size=0><!-quote-!><font size=1>quote:</font>
The hydro WANTS to self accelerate....that's why FRICTION is built into the speed control lever, to hold it in place. If you loosen the friction adjustment and barely bump the hydro lever it will automatically move to wide open...it's the nature of the beast. <!-/quote-!><hr size=0></blockquote>
You might want to read all the pages on the hydro creep thing.
<blockquote><hr size=0><!-quote-!><font size=1>quote:</font>
The hydro WANTS to self accelerate....that's why FRICTION is built into the speed control lever, to hold it in place. If you loosen the friction adjustment and barely bump the hydro lever it will automatically move to wide open...it's the nature of the beast. <!-/quote-!><hr size=0></blockquote>
rchristensen
Well-known member
- Joined
- Aug 12, 2006
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- 933
- displayname
- Richard Christensen
Usually when I find a Cub that Lurches or jumps in acceleration when the springs and end pins are okay, I will find one of two problems.
1. The trunion bracket has a knotch worn in the end of the bracket.
2. The side bracket and the trunion bracket have been painted or there is rust between them that does not allow the two brackets to move independently.
Whenever you move the hydro control quickly either forward or reverse the side plate responds immediately with only the small spring causing the trunion bracket to follow with a slight lag to reduce the quick change, when you reach the point of the large spring taking over it is direct movement. If you have rust between the two brackets or someone paints the brackets they are linked together and you will not like the restults, that is what the two different springs are for.
Another problem when the trunion bracket has a knotch in the end the end pin will catch momentary and then snap free causing erratic operation.
You should be able to hold the trunion bracket and move the side bracket back and forward and feel the smooth movement and the point where the big spring takes over.
1. The trunion bracket has a knotch worn in the end of the bracket.
2. The side bracket and the trunion bracket have been painted or there is rust between them that does not allow the two brackets to move independently.
Whenever you move the hydro control quickly either forward or reverse the side plate responds immediately with only the small spring causing the trunion bracket to follow with a slight lag to reduce the quick change, when you reach the point of the large spring taking over it is direct movement. If you have rust between the two brackets or someone paints the brackets they are linked together and you will not like the restults, that is what the two different springs are for.
Another problem when the trunion bracket has a knotch in the end the end pin will catch momentary and then snap free causing erratic operation.
You should be able to hold the trunion bracket and move the side bracket back and forward and feel the smooth movement and the point where the big spring takes over.
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