Archive through May 18, 2012

[bwittman]

Wayne -

Thank you for the advice on the engine cradle. I have looked at the various pictures of engine cradle modification, and like the idea of adding a third piece to make one piece out of two. Makes sense to me. I wonder if anyone has ever tried this modification with two 1/4" grade 8 bolts and nylock nuts drilled diagonally on each side, ranter than welding, and had any success with it. I don't have a welder, but I do have a pretty good drill press. One might have to make to grind down the bolt heads a bit, but it could work.

Dave -

Thank you for the advice on examining the engine cradle. I'll take a good look, but I would bet the engine needs to come out of that machine shortly after I get it home. Because this project is way over budget, I will get some flack from the CEO/CFO of the corporation, but I will have to tell her that if I do the work now, we won't have to buy an oil pan or fix the hydro later.

I am most certainly crazy, and I enjoy being off my medication.

 

[jwalker]

Dennis, thanks for the input, it's a project that went to the back burner. I'll check the head bolts and run her for a while and see what it does
Thanks Joe

 

[bkurth]

hey guys is there anyone here making making drive shafts for the original if so could you point me in the right direction please thanks brian

 

[cmwkrill]

Brian- Check http://ccspecialties.org/ptocreepers.html It'll be about $45, according to the prices. wait.. you said you had a creeper gear.. they're temporarily out of those, but i'd tell you to check back fairly often..

 

[cmwkrill]

Hey, guys.. Just a quick question, how hard is it to remove the PTO on a K241? I don't suppose it can all be removed as a unit.. the more I look at it, the more I realize I'll probably have to pull everything to put that spring on the camshaft.. OH, will I have to pull the valves if I pull the camshaft?

 

[ljones]

Charles MW Krill, the valves can stay in when you remove the camshaft. As for the pto it can come off on a breeze or it can take days, their are three sets of two set screws (stacked on top of each other) it would help of you soaked them in a good penetrating oil a while before you try to get them out also make shure their is NO dirt in the hex of the set screws. After you remove the 3x2 set screws it should just slide right off. You may even have bigger problems when it comes to the basket pulley, it is VERRY delicate and can some times be hard to get off. When I removed the one on my 122 I had to heat the crank till it was cherry red to get the pulley to break loose.

 

[cmwkrill]

Hey, Thanks, Lucas. Much appreciated.

 

[dtanner]

Charles Matthew Wayne Krill

I believe I posted last week that the springs could be changed with out removing the cam.If you remove the cam cover plate you can see the springs and fly weights .I bet a set of long reach bent needle nose pliers and you could change the springs from there. But if you want to pull the engine from the tractor and remove the base pan you could also replace the springs easy without taking the cam out. BTDT

 

[cmwkrill]

*smacks forehead* I guess that shows me not thinking too far. I was thinking that for whatever reason the only way you could get to the cam was to go into the oil pan. Oi. Its been a long last few weeks.

 

[hydroharry]

Charles MW Krill - I know your work status changed but wondered if you every got that K241 running. I thought it was diagnosed with a bad ACR spring. Is that the repair you're still pursuing? Also, if I recall you may have a later version 109 that came with a blade/brake version PTO. It doesn't really make it that much harder to remove/replace but it's a bit more involved. I still think as Lucas mentions, the hardest part of removal is the 3 pairs of set screws (one pair in each hole around the PTO). The service manual is an invaluable guide when you get to this. I still wouldn't be concerned about the PTO until you're sure your K241 runs good.