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Archive through May 16, 2007

IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum

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Found out why one of my hydros was locked up last night.

This is what I saw when I first opened the case.

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Some of the pieces missing from this pic are stuck in the cylinder.

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And it was bad enough to crack the case.

Luckily I was able to use the good ported half on a non ported hydro and the repair cost was minimal. Just some time.
 
Oh yeah this is what I am working on now.

And the Two shall become One...

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So I don't get in trouble....One of them was made in 1980
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KRAIG -
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You have anything about what a '61 to '63 Cub Cadet cost? I think they were cheaper than the 70 by a bit. The '63 Cub Cadet Dad bought with the 38" timed blade deck cost between $700 & $750. And in '65 He traded for the 70 w/3-blade 38" deck for about $350-$400 to boot. And the 70 according to that list should have retailed for $829. Elec. start tractor, mower, & PTO. Few years later We added the available amp gauge. Then dual exh., wheel weights, Then about 15 yrs ago Dad added wider rear turf tires, fenders off a 123, etc. etc. etc.
I started buying parts last Saturday to RESTORE it....not refurbish it like My others. But it MAY be a 100 when it's done.
 
I got tired of getting a headache every time I studied those Kohler torque curve graphics that have been floating around here, so I re-drew it much larger, putting all K-series engines that I had data for on it, as well as the data for the Kubota D-600B.

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If anyone has a torque curve graph for the K-341, KT-17, M18/20, Briggs 16 h.p. twin (582), or Onan 19.9 (982) I'd like to add them.
 
Having fun now - the 129 is running and spinning blades. The steering is so bad it is unsafe for women and small children. There is looseness all over the front end...don't know where to start first.

Do these K301 motors have some sort of crank breather? I noticed a faint tint of white-ish smoke from the left (drivers side) of the motor. Seems to run strong enough.

The rattle/clang noise in the front end I'm figuring is just normal. At least it'll be normal for me until something breaks and proves otherwise.

All in all, a good purchase. I've got $162 in it so far and got wheel weights, a blade and a nice 42" mower deck. I would have been happy if the thing didn't run at all but a running motor is a real treat. These single cylinder jobs are fun. Completely different sound and feel. The motor sounds so DETERMINED. This 12 hp motor throws some pretty good vibrations - makes me wonder how those 16's shake. Could probably mix paint with them.
 
Craig E,

The front PTO clutch will sometimes make a clanging sound when disengaged on the early Cubbies like your 129. Could be your anti-rattle springs are gone.
 
Craig,

You have a crankcase breather on the engine right underneath where the carburetor bolts to the engine. That whitish smoke is blowby, caused by combustion gasses forcing their way past the rings. Engines that are worn tend to have more blowby, but even a fairly fresh motor can blow a little under a heavy load, such as cutting heavy grass, pulling a plow, or running a snowblower hard. If the engine is throwing a lot of blowby and seems to be laboring more than it should, its probably time to do an overhaul, or at least put a fresh set of rings in it.

I can't give you any specific recommendations on fixing the loose steering, except to figure out where most of the slop is and take action to correct it. Good news is that the tie rod ends are fairly inexpensive, and the steering box can be tightend up. Check GL's Faq on how to rebuild the box. I've got the steering pretty good on my 129, but I still have some slop in the front axle kingpin though, which will be harder to address.
 
Ron: The springs in the Pto might be the culprit. Sounds reasonable. I'll have to get a parts diagram and look at 'em.

Charlie: I think you're right - I'm gonna pull the PTO off and see what's up but first I've got to get the lawn mowed...if it will stop raining long enough to dry out. I'm just tickled my new tractor actually runs. There's hope for it.
 
Bruce: I thought that might be the case. The smoke is light in color and volume. It's a 1974 tractor so there's bound to be a lot of wear but she still sounds strong. We'll see what happens when I put it under load but I think it'll get thru the summer.

The old gal has got the original condenser and coil and had the original spark plug wire! Amazing. I stuck a wire off an old Chevy motor for a temporary upgrade.

I remember the thread on tightening up the steering box - I'll probably dig that out of the archive and start there. I noticed the front axle even seems to pivot back and forth - that concerns me. I'm hoping it can be tightened. I'd hate to think about finding and buying a front axle.
 
Boy for what I do for a living with the 1250 a lot of these attatchments would really be cool. I wish I could get all that stuff on a newer rig, the 1250 needs an overhaul, you should see the blue smoke under load (its worse than my chainsaws).
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I wouldn't give up the old cub for anything, the people in town seem to keep track of where I go cause I have the most visible old cub in town. There is one other guy but he keeps the five of his in the garage all the time.
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Headed down to southern Indiana this weekend. Anything I shouldn't miss??
 
Well, I got my QL nosecone (Thanks Don V.) and here's what I was talking about doing to it. I put the two ribs in the middle and will put the IH emblem inbetween them and the headlights in the stock location. It is still rough, but more pics to come.
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Craig E.-

The front axle pivoting back and forth isn't the axle itself, the C-channel in the frame has spread out. On the 82 series tractors, the fix is easy because you just tighten the bolt a half turn or so. On an earlier tractor you'll need to get a large bolt and nut and squeeze the C-channel back together next time you have the motor out and the front axle off.
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Craig, others... Did some pokin around on my 122 tonight, it sort of "died" on me the other day, thought she was just out of gas. Seems I've (and my Cub's) got no spark. Opened the little points cover, gently pulled some 220 grit between the points, put it back together. still nothing. I put a coil in last summer, think I should drop a 20 and try another? Can a coil be tested? Honestly, it's been a while since I've set points, any suggestions to my simple problem?}
 
David,

Yes a coil can be tested. Also, if you have a good set of point, or have replaced recently you may also want to keep in mind or check, the gasket that goes under the point cover. If this gasket is not present you will have increased problems due to dirt, moisture and other contaminents getting under the point cover and messing with the ignition. I found this out the hard way. Bought and replaced the complete system in my 122 then found out the next season that I had missed this important little detail. If you can don't be affraid to hit the Binder Book button at the top and get the full manual set if you can. JMHO.
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