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Archive through May 14, 2018
- Thread starter digger
- Start date
Help Support IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum:
Well I got dad mowing on Sunday. Swapped my 44a on to his 1450 from my 1200. I gots belts to change! His did nothing but slip in mild grass. I put mine on and she didn't slow down. I'll have to give his 44a a good cleaning and check it all over. But now my grass needs mowing....
kide
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- Aug 27, 2006
- Messages
- 3,779
- displayname
- Gerry Ide
David Schwandt .. Looks like you've got things narrowed down on a pump. I looked at Northern's online listings, most are listed as "concentric" and I suspect some of those don't use roller or ball bearings in the end plates since there isn't side load. The series that you listed is specifically listed for use as pulley driven.
As far as static belt tightness - that's only half the story - when a belt driven pump is at maximum pressure the tension side of the belt is putting the hp needed to turn the pump as a sideways pull on the pump. I still say use the right pump for the application..
As far as static belt tightness - that's only half the story - when a belt driven pump is at maximum pressure the tension side of the belt is putting the hp needed to turn the pump as a sideways pull on the pump. I still say use the right pump for the application..
prtombaugh
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- Nov 30, 2008
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- 315
- displayname
- Paul Tombaugh
I’m mounting a Hub City 22 reducer/reverser on my 70 Cub Cadet. I had it apart a couple years ago and didn’t take note of how much oil came out of it. Now I need to know how much and what kind of oil to use. My guess is to fill it about halfway with 90 weight gear lube. Maybe fill it to the fill hole. Any ideas on this? Hub City didn’t respond to an email.
Paul T.
I filled mine with 90 Wt. gear oil and filled it till it starting running out the hole.
I filled mine with 90 Wt. gear oil and filled it till it starting running out the hole.
prtombaugh
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- Nov 30, 2008
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- Paul Tombaugh
Thanks, Digger.
I did more research and one source said 1/2 pint. The 90 weight is right on. Could well be 1/2 pint to the hole. Mine is Model 2211IH, which is a reverser only.
By the way - FAST SHIPPING on my order!! Thanks.
I did more research and one source said 1/2 pint. The 90 weight is right on. Could well be 1/2 pint to the hole. Mine is Model 2211IH, which is a reverser only.
By the way - FAST SHIPPING on my order!! Thanks.
bkattner
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- Feb 2, 2014
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- Brian Kattner
My 86 with a K181 is leaking oil at the governor shaft. How is this repaired? Parts breakdown shows a governor shaft bushing, looks like it threads into the block? I'd like to get this fixed and mow some with this old rig.
Brian sounds like your crankcase breather is stopped up. It is just below the carburetor. You will need gaskets and be sure to reinstall it correct. Download the service manual and it should show you details on this.
mgonitzke
Well-known member
That might fix the leak, but I doubt it. That brass bushing nut and shaft are probably worn. If there is any radial play in the governor shaft, that is the problem, not the crankcase breather.
With the engine running, see if you can feel air puffing out of the breather vent before you tear into it for no reason.
With the engine running, see if you can feel air puffing out of the breather vent before you tear into it for no reason.
Brian, The nuts/bushings are still available.
I usually keep several on hand and replace them in engines I work on that appear to be weeping or loose. The 128 on the bench now was leaking in the same spot. A new bushing fixed the issue.
Charlie may have them.
Any small engine shop or Cub Dealer can get one for you I'm sure.
Bushing, cross shaft, #KH-235476
I usually keep several on hand and replace them in engines I work on that appear to be weeping or loose. The 128 on the bench now was leaking in the same spot. A new bushing fixed the issue.
Charlie may have them.
Any small engine shop or Cub Dealer can get one for you I'm sure.
Bushing, cross shaft, #KH-235476
lkortkamp
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- Joined
- Apr 7, 2009
- Messages
- 280
- displayname
- Larry
With the constant rain/sun we're having lately the grass is growing like gangbusters. While doing some painting last night on the Mack, I took a break and hopped on the 127.
I checked the oil, as I know it smokes, and it needed a couple gulps to get it to the full mark. I put some gas and MMO in it and went to town. It mows really nice, the deck bearings seem to be quieting down just a touch now as it doesn't "roar" so bad. The hydro control is getting looser feeling, thought still could use a bit of adjustment as you have to really stomp on the brake pedal if you want to stop it that way(typically don't). It steers so nice, and rides much better then the 149(I'm getting new tires on it soon!!).
Going to check into a cheapo freshen up on the rings as long as the bore isn't too bad. I don't want to pour a ton of money into it. Just make it burn a bit cleaner. I checked the oil level after mowing and it was hardly down anything noticeable. That's a good sign, I was expecting worse. Just running along it looks okay, but once it hits a load it starts fogging. My 149 hasn't burned a drop of oil in all the years I've owned it.
In all, I'm pretty happy with it. I like projects that aren't money pits and torn down for years.
I checked the oil, as I know it smokes, and it needed a couple gulps to get it to the full mark. I put some gas and MMO in it and went to town. It mows really nice, the deck bearings seem to be quieting down just a touch now as it doesn't "roar" so bad. The hydro control is getting looser feeling, thought still could use a bit of adjustment as you have to really stomp on the brake pedal if you want to stop it that way(typically don't). It steers so nice, and rides much better then the 149(I'm getting new tires on it soon!!).
Going to check into a cheapo freshen up on the rings as long as the bore isn't too bad. I don't want to pour a ton of money into it. Just make it burn a bit cleaner. I checked the oil level after mowing and it was hardly down anything noticeable. That's a good sign, I was expecting worse. Just running along it looks okay, but once it hits a load it starts fogging. My 149 hasn't burned a drop of oil in all the years I've owned it.
In all, I'm pretty happy with it. I like projects that aren't money pits and torn down for years.
Just an update on the rear PTO.
Sent out an email to a company I thought made the PTO and turns out they did. Sent me a drawing, checked the dimensions. Found out the air gap is correct and the coil had the correct ohms.
There was no drum brake on the drawing, asked the company if cub cadet at the time specified one and they said no. Michael Masheris was correct on not having a drum brake.
Put the PTO on tonight and made sure I had a better ground and it seems to be working good the first couple times with the tiller attached.
Sent out an email to a company I thought made the PTO and turns out they did. Sent me a drawing, checked the dimensions. Found out the air gap is correct and the coil had the correct ohms.
There was no drum brake on the drawing, asked the company if cub cadet at the time specified one and they said no. Michael Masheris was correct on not having a drum brake.
Put the PTO on tonight and made sure I had a better ground and it seems to be working good the first couple times with the tiller attached.
What are these screw/bolts called with this type of head?
And where can some be had?
These are used on the hood hingees on the WF and elsewhere on the hood assembly and are apparently self threading.
These are 5/16 x 5/8.
McMaster_Carr and Fastenall catalogs are of no help.
Oh yes, and should the be painted ot left natural finsh for a restoration.?
Also used in 1/4" for securing engine tins. These have the letter "M" stamped on them b ut have also seen them wih an A/J and als an S.
And where can some be had?
These are used on the hood hingees on the WF and elsewhere on the hood assembly and are apparently self threading.
These are 5/16 x 5/8.
McMaster_Carr and Fastenall catalogs are of no help.
Oh yes, and should the be painted ot left natural finsh for a restoration.?
Also used in 1/4" for securing engine tins. These have the letter "M" stamped on them b ut have also seen them wih an A/J and als an S.
klindstedt
Well-known member
David - Try 'Indented head hex screw'
here is a link to one supplier - https://www.mutualscrew.com/department/hex-indented-head-machine-screws-13292.cfm
Ouch, looks like they sell in BULK quantities.
here is a link to one supplier - https://www.mutualscrew.com/department/hex-indented-head-machine-screws-13292.cfm
Ouch, looks like they sell in BULK quantities.
lkortkamp
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- Joined
- Apr 7, 2009
- Messages
- 280
- displayname
- Larry
You can get them by the piece here, though not self threading style:
https://www.fmwfasteners.com/collections/5-16-18-indented-hex-head-machine-screws-zinc-plated/products/5-16-18-x-3-4-indented-hex-head-machine-screw-zinc
But with a Dremel you could cut the starts and make them self threading.
Might have to grind them to get to 5/8" long.
https://www.fmwfasteners.com/collections/5-16-18-indented-hex-head-machine-screws-zinc-plated/products/5-16-18-x-3-4-indented-hex-head-machine-screw-zinc
But with a Dremel you could cut the starts and make them self threading.
Might have to grind them to get to 5/8" long.
mgonitzke
Well-known member
Why spend the time making them self-threading when the holes are already threaded? No one would ever know the difference.
Edit:
As far as painted or not, whether they were or not originally depends on where on the tractor they were located. If the new screws are not cad or zinc plated, then you'll obviously need to paint them or they will rust.
Edit:
As far as painted or not, whether they were or not originally depends on where on the tractor they were located. If the new screws are not cad or zinc plated, then you'll obviously need to paint them or they will rust.
klindstedt
Well-known member
Off topic Friday post -
My daughter just finished her first year of her master's degree program in Museum Studies at IUPUI in Indianapolis. She is an intern at the Center for Ray Bradbury Studies. Her role there is to scan and summarize the voluminous collection of correspondence that Ray donated to the Center. If I recall correctly, she is currently working on 1972. The director of the Center was a good friend of Ray Bradbury and Ray wanted all of his memorabilia to be available for viewing and study. Last fall my job took me to Indy and I stopped to see my daughter at work. Here we are in a recreation of Ray's office. I'm actually sitting in his chair at the desk he sat at to write his novels. For those who don't know his work, he is one of the better known science fiction writers. The director of the center jokes about the 'ABC's of sci-fi', Asimov, Bradbury, and Clarke!
My daughter just finished her first year of her master's degree program in Museum Studies at IUPUI in Indianapolis. She is an intern at the Center for Ray Bradbury Studies. Her role there is to scan and summarize the voluminous collection of correspondence that Ray donated to the Center. If I recall correctly, she is currently working on 1972. The director of the Center was a good friend of Ray Bradbury and Ray wanted all of his memorabilia to be available for viewing and study. Last fall my job took me to Indy and I stopped to see my daughter at work. Here we are in a recreation of Ray's office. I'm actually sitting in his chair at the desk he sat at to write his novels. For those who don't know his work, he is one of the better known science fiction writers. The director of the center jokes about the 'ABC's of sci-fi', Asimov, Bradbury, and Clarke!
Kevin, very cool!
hydroharry
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- Jul 22, 2007
- Messages
- 4,377
- displayname
- Harry Bursell
I'm back alive and almost well, and just sneaking a peak here:
David S - yes about the 3rd time you screw those Indented Head Self Tapping Hex Screws into the aluminum upper grill housing of an 1x8/9 unit or a Quiet Line, the dang things strip out half the threads. Be very careful screwing them in and don't over-tighten.
And yes, I paint them with my extra special Hi-Ho Silver paint for restoration projects.
David S - yes about the 3rd time you screw those Indented Head Self Tapping Hex Screws into the aluminum upper grill housing of an 1x8/9 unit or a Quiet Line, the dang things strip out half the threads. Be very careful screwing them in and don't over-tighten.
And yes, I paint them with my extra special Hi-Ho Silver paint for restoration projects.
Hydro, "almost well" ?
That doesn't sound so good... Welcome back.
