David, I remember you and I had discussed that recently but I forgot the details of our discussion.
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Archive through May 14, 2008
- Thread starter kmcconaughey
- Start date
Help Support IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum:
mgonitzke
Well-known member
Myron/Todd/Michael-
I think most gear drives will pop out of gear under extremely heavy loads. Both gear drive tractors I have plowed with(my 128 and my 582) do that. Stronger poppet springs are supposed to help. I haven't tried them though. I'll eventually just make a bracket to hold my 582 in 2nd when I plow.
I think most gear drives will pop out of gear under extremely heavy loads. Both gear drive tractors I have plowed with(my 128 and my 582) do that. Stronger poppet springs are supposed to help. I haven't tried them though. I'll eventually just make a bracket to hold my 582 in 2nd when I plow.
Michael, actually I believe you got bit by the archive bug.
Try reposting your photo.
Matt G: Can't comment on what yours do, but I can say what mine do not do....From my Cub Cadet Original weekly mower to the 55hp Mahindra diesel, they do not pop out of gear even with heavy loads....The biggest problem is 300 lb bone head Previous Owners thinking that throwing all that weight on the the shift handle makes the gear go in farther. NOPE ! All it does is bend the shifters and then they do pop out. Methinks you've got a PO syndrome. Cub Cadets in my area were used primarily for mowing, not plowing, therefore generally much less subject to the "let's cram it" crowd... I had a Cub, once, that would pop out...replaced the poppets and shifters and end of problem....There are some other things that can cause the pop out problem but not anywhere near the bent shifter numbers..
Myron B
CCSupplyRoom
Myron B
CCSupplyRoom
Myron,
So if I understand you correctly, if I find a 44 inch deck off of 128 or 129 made thru 10/74 I will be able to hook it straight up to my subframe and mule drive.
Thanks for all of your help.
ccannon
So if I understand you correctly, if I find a 44 inch deck off of 128 or 129 made thru 10/74 I will be able to hook it straight up to my subframe and mule drive.
Thanks for all of your help.
ccannon
Christopher C: Yes <u>IF</u> it's 44. However, the OEM deck for a 128/129 is a 44A because they are wide frames but yours is a narrow frame. Watch those ebay sellers...some know what they are talking about but many do NOT. They may tell you it's a 44 (true) but neglect to tell you that it is the A or C wide frame version which you cannot use without that adaptor kit...Buyer beware!!
Myron B
CCSupplyRoom
Myron B
CCSupplyRoom
sblunier
Well-known member
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- Steve Blunier "Mr. Plow" (Central IL)
Myron,
You can have good detents and springs and welded shift forks and still have a gear drive pop out of 2nd under a hard load. Wear on the front edge of the gear teeth is the main culprit....many of the "mowing" tractors are the worst, especially the 12hp machines that had the nuts to mow in 2nd gear all of the time.....over 30-40 years of shuttle shifting between 2nd and REV the front edges of the teeth wear and then the uneven pressure across the face of the tooth causes them to walk out of gear.
I will 100% agree, good shift forks and detents are a requirement, and certainly help, but they won't fix a rounded gear tooth.
Pull one hard on a plow and there aren't many Cubs out there that won't pop out of 2nd...some more than others, some all the time, but most all of them will do it on occassion.
You can have good detents and springs and welded shift forks and still have a gear drive pop out of 2nd under a hard load. Wear on the front edge of the gear teeth is the main culprit....many of the "mowing" tractors are the worst, especially the 12hp machines that had the nuts to mow in 2nd gear all of the time.....over 30-40 years of shuttle shifting between 2nd and REV the front edges of the teeth wear and then the uneven pressure across the face of the tooth causes them to walk out of gear.
I will 100% agree, good shift forks and detents are a requirement, and certainly help, but they won't fix a rounded gear tooth.
Pull one hard on a plow and there aren't many Cubs out there that won't pop out of 2nd...some more than others, some all the time, but most all of them will do it on occassion.
Myron,
Ok, thanks for the heads up. I think I'll continue to look locally so I can actually see what I am buying.
There is a 48 inch deck on ebay that looks just like my 42 inch deck only bigger that the seller is saying came off of a 129 which is a wide frame. This wouldn't work either correct?
ccannon
Ok, thanks for the heads up. I think I'll continue to look locally so I can actually see what I am buying.
There is a 48 inch deck on ebay that looks just like my 42 inch deck only bigger that the seller is saying came off of a 129 which is a wide frame. This wouldn't work either correct?
ccannon
Brian,
I put a set of Carlisle Sno-Hogs on the front of my 106 last winter for plowing duty. They worked out very well. They are tires designed for walk-behind snowblowers, and they really bite into the snow. I would highly recommend them for all year use too.
I put a set of Carlisle Sno-Hogs on the front of my 106 last winter for plowing duty. They worked out very well. They are tires designed for walk-behind snowblowers, and they really bite into the snow. I would highly recommend them for all year use too.
I have recently aquired a model 1100, which seems to be a subject of debate as to whether it is a "true" cub cadet. That doesn't matter much to me, but can someone give me some insight on what engine this model came from the factory with? I have rebuilt the pto clutch twice, and it failed the third time. My tractor has a 14 horse Kohler.
Christopher Cannon: If it is a true 48" just like your OEM deck (including that Cast Iron nose piece)then it should mount to your tractor. The 44,44A & 44C decks do not have those cast iron nose pieces. On ebay, unless you know the seller, Buyer Beware!!
Myron B
Myron B
Mike, your 1100 originally came with an 11hp Briggs & Stratton.
Guys,
I'm still having electrical issues with my 147. I've got a new battery, wiring harness, voltage regulator, and S/G, yet still the problem of the ammeter going to the D side when clicked to the number 1 key position persists. Now it also won't start from the key. Key switch problem? Also, on the voltage regulator, it has a BAT, L, F post on one side and a GEN (?)post on the back. My wiring harness says, BAT, GEN, F, and GRD. Is this the wrong voltage regulator? If not, where should I put the GRD wire from the harness? I am very frustrated with this and don't know what to do. Thanks.
I'm still having electrical issues with my 147. I've got a new battery, wiring harness, voltage regulator, and S/G, yet still the problem of the ammeter going to the D side when clicked to the number 1 key position persists. Now it also won't start from the key. Key switch problem? Also, on the voltage regulator, it has a BAT, L, F post on one side and a GEN (?)post on the back. My wiring harness says, BAT, GEN, F, and GRD. Is this the wrong voltage regulator? If not, where should I put the GRD wire from the harness? I am very frustrated with this and don't know what to do. Thanks.
Wes, lets start with this. (no pun intended)
Wes, looks like you have the wrong Voltage Regulator.
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