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We had an EF1 4 miles from here sunday
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On topic now ...

Points will NOT blow head gaskets , maybe bad timing would but I doubt that even. The only "point" that'll blow head gaskets is the point on the guy's head that told you that story ...

Most likely the head was removed to de-carbon it and then NOT torqued proper and each time a new gasket was installed ... dejavue !! (I use to know how to spell that ;)
 
Harry - (if that's your real name)
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Buy'em ALL , let your wife sort'em out
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Had to try and see if the garden was dry enough to plow last weekend.
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Wouldn't you know it, it just had to start to rain just as I was getting a good start.
Ground was a tad wet, but now it will be anouther couple of days befor I can finish up the garden.
 
Ken -that is real name & no wife
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- & I probably will buy nother tractor some day. right now I have a 4 car garage with no more room & 8 cars sittin outside. I moved one out so I could put tractor inside. oh no I am turning into a tractor-head.
But on side note-Sat. the sun came out for while so I drive new toy down road to show it to guys that run small engine world ,a mower/ lawntractor/generator repair shop. runs fine,I park it - sits & idles nice no creeping either direction.I'm talking to shop owner & he really likes to see old tractors brought back to life. Theres a screech & car stops right beside us ,driver rolls window down: "How much for that Cub?" We converse, what,when,how,etc.....
Haven't run it 10 mins. & got someone who wants to buy it. I declined-very strange for me not to sell anything for a profit. I havent even had chance to break it yet.
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Had a good Cub day today. I sold my 106 on Saturday. I had planned to sell it when I got my 149 fixed up, but a guy offered me what I wanted for it, so off it went. It's gone to a good home, with several Farmalls to keep it company, and now I've got the cash to buy all those parts for my 149.

So, tonight I started stripping the 149 down to see what it needs. I pulled the fender pan, and as I expected, the entire hydro linkage mess is shot, so I'll need to replace all the parts and pieces and find somebody to weld up the trunnion.

I pulled the engine and took the oil pan off to check the grenade gears. Glad I did, they are just flopping around in there. I'll have to get a good pair of snap-ring pliers with 90 deg. tips and remove the gears.

Finally, I took the axle off, and checked to see if the super-steer axle I have will fit. Looks like it will, except the castle nut won't thread on far enough to put a cotter pin in the hole in the end of the axle pivot bolt. Has anyone else had this problem?

Ok, I just re-read the article in Charlie's FAQ about the super-steer, and it talks about a 3/4" bolt, thin washers and a jam nut. Is that to replace the axle pivot bolt that is used on the donor tractor? Is the head of the bolt supposed to be toward the rear of the tractor, or the front?
 
I was getting concerned that the driveshaft on my 129 was rotating about 15 or 20 degrees freely with respect to the engine, and I pulled it out to look at it. Some of my concern was warranted as shown by the picture below, but it actually doesn't look like it was in imminent danger of the shaft snapping and leaving me stranded at the far end of my yard, or in some other inconvenient spot. but the hole the pin rides in is getting pretty egged out. I was thinking of welding the hole shut, then redrilling it, but I'm concerned that welding will make the shaft brittle. Might as well get a fan for the Hydro unit while it's out too, since a couple of blades are broken.

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Hello everyone:
Spring is here (I think??) and it is time to think lawn. I have a 129 hydro with a 44 inch deck and I am thinking of ordering some gator mulcher blades. I am not satisfied with the cut from the blades that I have now and I have read that Gator's do a great job. Does anyone have these on an older 44 inch deck. The number on the my deck is (441U1111) Do they work or does it clog up?
I would appreciate any comments.
Thanks
Earl LaMott
Burnsville,MN
 
Earl - I'm running 2 decks with Gators , I'd run 3 <u>IF</u> they'd make'em for the 42" decks. Try it , You'll like it !!
 
Mark H- if the bore is still with in the .030 of stock, so you can get the piston and rings, go for it. I'd rather rebuild it and not buy a new one. Most small engine shops don't want to spend the time on it when they can just replace the short block. I have done several from B&S to Kohler They really aren't that hard to do. If you can do it yourself it's like money in the bank. All the advise you could possibly need is here, sometime we are just a bit slow with it. (I'm still waiting to see if anyone has pictures of the sandtrap rake avaliable about 35 years ago.)
 
Jed D: You are welcome and glad you found your way to posting. Please keep us up to date on your progress (BTW: Charlie likes pictures
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Myron B
CCSupplyRoom
Down in East Texas
 
hello everyone! wondering if anyone has any plans or pics of a log splitter that will hook up to a cub? looking into having one made... I have a 124 & a 125...in prossess of restoring the 125.
 
Earl,

Gators are the ONLY blades to put on 44" and 50" decks....actually, like Ken said, ALL decks that they are available for.

Gators will significantly increase the air flow under the deck and will leave a smooth and clean cut.

Worth the effort and $$$ to change to them!!!

While you're at it, give the 44" a good tune-up/true-up as described in the FAQ and consider adding gauge wheels to the front corners......some more things that really help the performance of the 44/50 decks (any decks for that matter).
 
Ken-
I think you may have been sniffing too many welding fumes again, or maybe the old lady has your back zapper cranked up too high...
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"Points will NOT blow head gaskets, maybe bad timing would but I doubt that even. The only "point" that'll blow head gaskets is the point on the guy's head that told you that story ..."

So you're saying an engine that overheats due to incorrectly adjusted points won't warp a head?

Really?!?!?!??!

I find that hard to believe....
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Not meaning to be argumentive, just a healthy debate here.

That said, I'm no Engine-eer-er, but my "skull dyno" says heat's gotta play a pretty large effect in the scenerio.

I still say Bad/Mal-Adjusted points = WAY too much heat = "pop goes the headgasket"

'Course, if you re-read my previous post, I saidLOL!
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Art - The points only tell it when to fire , does nothing to heat. You might be more in thinking of the timing which is not the points job.

Running it to lean will cause more heat than bad timing.

On another note ...

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Bruce, the exact same thing happened to the driveshaft on my 129. It actually blew apart on me making a terrible noise and gobbs of black smoke. I suggest you have it all replaced ASAP. I built my own shaft having the work done at a local machine shop.
 
Guys, the front PTO on my 129 will not disengage. Does this mean it needs adjustment, rebuild or replacement? Any suggestions? Thanks!!
 
Qestion:
I purchased a Quiet Kit Muffler (from one of our sponsers) to put on my 149 14 HP I bought a 169 heat shield from Don V. Can I cut the old exhaust nipple (comming out of the block) to fit? or do I need to buy the new one offered with the Quiet Muffler? If I do need to remove the pipe going into the block after soaking it in BP whats the trick to removing them without damage?
Thank You!
Paul A [email protected]
 

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