Archive through May 02, 2014

[bellwood]

Harry: I set the spring back... I had only moved it one position so it was easy... The whole governor and throttle seems kinda loose... I'll shoot a vid and post it so you guys can give some input...

My flywheel was already marked with some white paint so I'm good there...

Parts are ordered and should be here Wednesday

 

[dtanner]

Just a though . When I timed my 125 I turned the 12 K over so I could see the s mark in the timing hole .Then I moved to the points side of the tractor and used a stick magnet on the engine so it when pas the starter Generator pulley and marked the pulley in line with the magnet. so now I could rotate the engine by hand and find the S mark by the line on sg pulley and my stick magnet. I then found out the to wide a point setting and the line would be above my stick magnet . and to tight was opposite. That made it easy to get the points correct with no timing light.


That crank seal is simple to remove with two sheet metal screws . using a drill and a small bit smaller than your two screws drill two holes in the seal across from each other just deep enough to start your screws .turn in the two screws and then pliers will work the seal around to remove it. . clean up the seal area and put some grease on the new seal and find a socket the same size and use it to tap the new seal in place. BTDT works great .

 

[jgoodine]

Steve S, tks for sharing video, 100 looks and sounds good

Bill J, my wife told me same things so I did, she was right I got one good reliable tractor, I needed 4wd due to we're I live anyway, and now I got way more time to work on my tractors. I don't think me keeping my ol tractors was part of her long term plan but hey there's worse habits,

John B I think your gonna have to update your profile, all this activity,

 

[jclazar]

Allen, Harry - Thank you for the help! The rubber in the headlight assembly is actually turning. The headlamp in the rubber stays put. I'm going to have a second look today.

Thank you for the suggestions about the front seal replacement. I'm headed for the Kohler manual. I originally thought I would have to remove the crank,,,,, and a whole scary operation will take place! I'm going to have a good look at the k301AQS I have on my bench to familiarize myself with the seal procedure!

thanks!

 

[wcompton]

Since I'm partially listed in the FAQ for the front end upgrades, I thought I'd add to some of the information out there.

As many of you have found; not all "super steer" axles are the same. There's an early "low" version, and a later "high" version. The difference is limited to the spindles

I'm making an assumption, but I'd be betting that MTD saw the line of garden tractors becoming more of a single-purpose lawn mower, and with the design of a higher-vacuum deck, they updated front end to allow more clearance to remove and install the deck. The only other popular front-end attachment, the 2-stage blowers, were not on a parallel linkage like the QA series was. I happened upon this over the winter as I broke a weld on the spindle on the super-steer axle on my 169. I found, locally, a 1440 front axle. Much to my chagrin, the front end was raised about 1.5", completely throwing off the geometry of my 54" blade (sure, I could have modified the blade subframe), as well as I noticed that my QA36 blower was canted backwards off the wear edge.

So the axle came off, but before I designated it for recycling, I noticed that it was swept forward about an inch, or about 1.75" more forward than IH models, but was otherwise dimensionally identical to the "low" super steer front axle I had gleaned from a early cyclops model. Bear in mind, your drag link will need to be made porportionally longer.

Its been since blasted, and painted 2150 Red, and installed on a project. I like the forward sweep, think of the stance between a 240 utility tractor, and an 806 with a wide front, it's just more befitting of something patterned after a field tractor.

Here's the graphical description:

Comparision between the early and late super steer axles. Notice the forward sweep, as well as additional iron.

Here's the installed "before" picture with the early super steer casting.

Here's the installed "after" picture with the late super steer casting.

Enjoy!

 

[dschwandt]

John L,............... I have the same problem w/my QL's but never can seem to remember to do anything about it!
Now after thinking about it, You might try some thin strips of electrical tape inserted in the groove of the rubber that should "catch" the screen I would think. Or maybe a few drops of black silicone gasket maker in a few places in the groove. Once that stuff sets up it should be forever I would think. I might try that, If only I can remember to do it!!

 

[kostendorf]

John,and David, with the lights out of the rubber ring take a long staple and stick through the rubber into the top of the screen that's bent 90 deg. and bend the staple sides out. Your lights will never turn again and you cannot see the fix from outside.

 

[kostendorf]

Here is a pic of what I'm talking about.

 

[dschwandt]

GotCha Kieth!!!
You Da Man!!!
Hey, Are you coming to Oregon, IL in 2 weeks??

 

[dschwandt]

126 clutch question. I'm gathering parts for a clutch rebuild on a 126 and creeper addition and noticed in the parts lookup that there is no teaser spring cup listed as for the 1000 and 1200 QL's. Is there a reason for this and should I install one even though it's not in the parts book for a 126?