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Archive through May 02, 2014
- Thread starter dtanner
- Start date
Help Support IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum:
Dennis first of tks for the response, I mean no disrespect towards you, IH went under before I was even born, so I rely on guys like you for information. As far as me buying the forum, well my job is probably more like kraig's although there is only a couple positions above me, there's none below me, at least as far as I'm concerned. Lol
hydroharry
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- Jul 22, 2007
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- Harry Bursell
Rick Acton - I didn't see anyone respond to your post about the steering shaft with the hole and electrical tape. In your pics I see bearing cups but no bearings and I'm wondering is someone rebuilt the box without the bearings and just used the tape to take up some slack. Might have worked for a short period but I can't imagine how it would steer. Sure is a strange idea but I don't know what else it could have been.
DON - Sorry to hear about your trailer, it was a nice one. No damage to the CC I hope.
Two yrs ago I had to haul my 982 200 miles home on a 12,000# cap. Corn Pro equipment trailer. It looked lonely on the trailer all by itself. I used four 5/16" class 70 transport chains and load binders to tie it down... the same chains/binders I tied the 7000# '51 FARMALL M down to the same trailer with. Suggestion I read on another forum about chaining equipment down for towing/hauling was, "Imagine picking the trailer up and turning it upside-down.... whatever your chaining down should stay on the trailer.
Whenever I see pic's of CC's with a ratchet strap over the frame between the seat & steering column, I CRINGE. My biggest concern when I tied the 982 down was pulling it into two pieces.
Two yrs ago I had to haul my 982 200 miles home on a 12,000# cap. Corn Pro equipment trailer. It looked lonely on the trailer all by itself. I used four 5/16" class 70 transport chains and load binders to tie it down... the same chains/binders I tied the 7000# '51 FARMALL M down to the same trailer with. Suggestion I read on another forum about chaining equipment down for towing/hauling was, "Imagine picking the trailer up and turning it upside-down.... whatever your chaining down should stay on the trailer.
Whenever I see pic's of CC's with a ratchet strap over the frame between the seat & steering column, I CRINGE. My biggest concern when I tied the 982 down was pulling it into two pieces.
Harry Bursell - Bearings were just out of the shot. Everything is in surprisingly good shape, it's just a mystery. I have decided to tap the cam and add a grease fitting. Since the hole is there in any case, it'll just be a convenience for me.
bellwood
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- Jul 29, 2007
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- 141
- displayname
- Brian Ellwood
Update on the 124...
Still haven't conquered the timing yet (I need to order a replacement push rod)
It did startup and drive around just fine though today
The PTO engagement for the deck is worse now... It's like the engine just doesn't want to keep up... Even though the deck is spinning up, it just seems to drag the engine down...
This wasn't happening before and the only changes I've made to the mow deck are the new deck belt and the new mule belt (the 80" vs 81")...
Maybe the mule belt is too tight? I measured both belts and they are both within 1/4" of each other...
I might try swapping the old mule belt back in and see if that makes any difference...
The fuel issue appears to be behind me now but timing is still likely and issue and shes backing firing 5-6 times at shutdown even if I let her run low for a few minutes to "cool down"...
Meanwhile, the 2146 is handling things in the yard as much as I dislike using it (cheap plastic and pathetic tires)
Still haven't conquered the timing yet (I need to order a replacement push rod)
It did startup and drive around just fine though today
The PTO engagement for the deck is worse now... It's like the engine just doesn't want to keep up... Even though the deck is spinning up, it just seems to drag the engine down...
This wasn't happening before and the only changes I've made to the mow deck are the new deck belt and the new mule belt (the 80" vs 81")...
Maybe the mule belt is too tight? I measured both belts and they are both within 1/4" of each other...
I might try swapping the old mule belt back in and see if that makes any difference...
The fuel issue appears to be behind me now but timing is still likely and issue and shes backing firing 5-6 times at shutdown even if I let her run low for a few minutes to "cool down"...
Meanwhile, the 2146 is handling things in the yard as much as I dislike using it (cheap plastic and pathetic tires)
bellwood
Well-known member
- Joined
- Jul 29, 2007
- Messages
- 141
- displayname
- Brian Ellwood
Actually, I did also change the spring position on the governor to address my low throttle issue...
The service manual says if its sets too sensitive speed surging can occur during load change... Not sure if my engine is "surging" but maybe this has something to do with it...
Since making that change I dont seem to have as much high end or top throttle speed either...
Maybe when I pulled the carb I also changed the throttle linkage setting as well...
Hrumph... Few things to check I guess...
Always something!
The service manual says if its sets too sensitive speed surging can occur during load change... Not sure if my engine is "surging" but maybe this has something to do with it...
Since making that change I dont seem to have as much high end or top throttle speed either...
Maybe when I pulled the carb I also changed the throttle linkage setting as well...
Hrumph... Few things to check I guess...
Always something!
- Joined
- Dec 3, 2005
- Messages
- 812
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- Binder 1650
126 Update: Got the deck greased, blades sharpened. Finished off greasing/lubing the tractor, including an engine and tranny oil change. This is on top of new points and condenser. The tractor is READY for prime time!
Bad news - went to start it, nothing. Turn the key and the amp meter moves toward the negative side. Sucker had been firing super great until this time.
Grass is growing full force, time is fleeting. 126 is going on the back burner with the 109 (which I'm going to swap the 10 hp for a 14 hp) for Summer. 1650 hasn't been on the list for mowing duty this summer - so unless I get some time, the IH fleet is going to be on sick duty for a while!
My Wife/boss keeps telling me - get rid of 'em - all the "junk" and buy a new whatever and be done with it.
Just can't bring myself to do it - LOL!
Craig M - the potato plow goes down maybe 6-ish inches. It's funny, the cross bar on the plow is for the lower 3 point arms on a Sears Suburban and make nice foot rests for my Wife/Boss to stand-on (with hands on my shoulders) for weight.
No comment on how much weight that adds - as that number is classified....
Bad news - went to start it, nothing. Turn the key and the amp meter moves toward the negative side. Sucker had been firing super great until this time.
Grass is growing full force, time is fleeting. 126 is going on the back burner with the 109 (which I'm going to swap the 10 hp for a 14 hp) for Summer. 1650 hasn't been on the list for mowing duty this summer - so unless I get some time, the IH fleet is going to be on sick duty for a while!
My Wife/boss keeps telling me - get rid of 'em - all the "junk" and buy a new whatever and be done with it.
Just can't bring myself to do it - LOL!
Craig M - the potato plow goes down maybe 6-ish inches. It's funny, the cross bar on the plow is for the lower 3 point arms on a Sears Suburban and make nice foot rests for my Wife/Boss to stand-on (with hands on my shoulders) for weight.
No comment on how much weight that adds - as that number is classified....
J
jclazar
Guest
What can I do to prevent the headlights in my 1450 from rotating?
The k321 has a slight oil leak from behind the electric power take off unit. If it is a crank shaft seal, I'm open for any tips for a successful repair. Never replaced one before. I'm beginning the research repair.
I fixed the rattle in the head light panel, now the hood hinge is making noise? Its going to be a while before I get the rattle trap quieted down.
The k321 has a slight oil leak from behind the electric power take off unit. If it is a crank shaft seal, I'm open for any tips for a successful repair. Never replaced one before. I'm beginning the research repair.
I fixed the rattle in the head light panel, now the hood hinge is making noise? Its going to be a while before I get the rattle trap quieted down.
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- Aug 23, 2006
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- Allen Schumacher
John, aren't there any notches in the retaing rings that hold the lamps? As I recall my 147 has notches in the rings that fit on to lugs on the back edge of the lens assy. For some reason I recall it's possible to put the retainers back in upside down/backwards/cockeyed.
What a productive day (especially not having to work today due to rain - I work at a Case IH dealership)
~went and picked up a 1250 and blower. sold both today.
~went and picked up a 105 cub. Has lights, hydro lift, and the optional cigarette lighter. got it running and mowed a little bit with it! still needs a little carb tlc.
Hooked the Brinly plow up to the 73 for some plowing tomorrow for a sweet corn patch.
~went and picked up a 1250 and blower. sold both today.
~went and picked up a 105 cub. Has lights, hydro lift, and the optional cigarette lighter. got it running and mowed a little bit with it! still needs a little carb tlc.
Hooked the Brinly plow up to the 73 for some plowing tomorrow for a sweet corn patch.
Tom, I had my stepdad chase me around the yard with my iphone. I believe the You Tube video editor took out some of the unsteadiness. I just wish the resolution was more clear...not sure if that could be improved somehow or not.
hydroharry
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- Harry Bursell
Brian E - you need to put that governor spring back into the hole it was in. I can never remember if it's the 2nd or 3rd from the bottom but just look for the hole that has the wear on it from the spring. You're jumping around to to many things before you've got that timing set. I still think your backfire may go away when you set the timing correctly. It could well be you need a new pushrod for the points but that's only if you can't get the timing set correctly. I assume you ordered the push rod and while you're waiting spend you time finding the S or SP mark on the flywheel. If it's not marked with white paint or chalk it's going to be hard to see. Once you find the mark that's the point where your points should just be opening, or just before the mark. Once you've got the timing set then you can go back over your carb adjustments and see how the throttle works. Moving that governor spring around is just asking for trouble.
I also wouldn't worry about your deck belts and PTO operation at this point. Wait until you've got the timing set correctly so the engine can run correctly. Since you've moved the spring on your governor your engine can't throttle up correctly and is lugging or basically coughing when you engage the PTO.
John L - not awhole lot you can do about the headlights rotating. I know the rubber holders have those detents that match up to the nubs on the bulbs. Those are supposed to keep them from rotating but the vibration still seems to get transmitted and they will still rotate. I used to straighten mine out about every month. I suppose you could put a drop of some type of glue on the bulb to hold them in place, but ONLY a drop. You don't want to glue the bulb to the entire rubber or it will be ruined when you try to change the bulb next time. If your problem is the actual rubber ring rotating in the metal upper grill then you could try removing the rubber and just slightly bending the little tit ends of the metal so it contacts the rubber better when the ring is inserted.
Now, your oil leak from behind the PTO is your oil seal. Scared the H out of me when it happened since mine just dumped oil all over and I didn't know what happened. It's not hard to replace. Have to completely remove the PTO and then pop the old seal out. Mine fell out when I got the PTO off and I would hope yours does. Installing a new one is really quite easy but follow the instructions in the manual and make sure you get the new seal flush unless it says something different. Re-installing the PTO takes a little more time and you need to follow all the instructions in the manual as well. Make sure you use the feeler gauge to check the gaps as described. Having the muffler box on there in the way is a pain. I recall removing the lower grill with the upper grill and hood still attached. Just to much in the way if you try to do this with just the lower grill removed.
I also wouldn't worry about your deck belts and PTO operation at this point. Wait until you've got the timing set correctly so the engine can run correctly. Since you've moved the spring on your governor your engine can't throttle up correctly and is lugging or basically coughing when you engage the PTO.
John L - not awhole lot you can do about the headlights rotating. I know the rubber holders have those detents that match up to the nubs on the bulbs. Those are supposed to keep them from rotating but the vibration still seems to get transmitted and they will still rotate. I used to straighten mine out about every month. I suppose you could put a drop of some type of glue on the bulb to hold them in place, but ONLY a drop. You don't want to glue the bulb to the entire rubber or it will be ruined when you try to change the bulb next time. If your problem is the actual rubber ring rotating in the metal upper grill then you could try removing the rubber and just slightly bending the little tit ends of the metal so it contacts the rubber better when the ring is inserted.
Now, your oil leak from behind the PTO is your oil seal. Scared the H out of me when it happened since mine just dumped oil all over and I didn't know what happened. It's not hard to replace. Have to completely remove the PTO and then pop the old seal out. Mine fell out when I got the PTO off and I would hope yours does. Installing a new one is really quite easy but follow the instructions in the manual and make sure you get the new seal flush unless it says something different. Re-installing the PTO takes a little more time and you need to follow all the instructions in the manual as well. Make sure you use the feeler gauge to check the gaps as described. Having the muffler box on there in the way is a pain. I recall removing the lower grill with the upper grill and hood still attached. Just to much in the way if you try to do this with just the lower grill removed.
