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Archive through March 25, 2012

IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum

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Here's one thats got me stumped. My Cub 126 has a K301A with the original tag on the block. The tag says to gap the plug at .025 but the Kohler manual I have says to gap it at .035. Which one is correct?
 
Don, the gap can vary depending on the ignition system of the actual engine, any of the following could be correct for a Kohler; 0.035", 0.025" or 0.018". Having said that, it should be 0.025" for your 126.
 
tractor is working well for now but i see a few things i need to correct. my idle pulses after i run it for a while. not sure how to correct. also when i use the lights on the tractor the battery will drain but will run ok with the mower deck though i see a good amount of draw on the guage. is there any way to make the mower deck throw the grass better? i know its an older mower but i would think i would have some velocity to it. the blades dont look too bad to me
let me know of any thoughts. i love this tractor and looking forward to having it for a long time!!!

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Kraig and Don - the tag on the engine and the IH Operator Manual should list .025" for the plug gap, but I always leaned toward a "strong .025", probably closer to .030". The Champion H10C may even come already gapped at this, if it hasn't been banged around to much, and hopefully not dropped. I don't know what Autolite does since I've always been a Champion guy since that's what Kohler installed and I've never had a plug issue.

Hydro Harry
Old Cubs Never Die (but keep'm spark'in)
 
Tim Z Z Z Z and Jeff B - upon listening to the U-tube video again I'm certain that noise is the PTO itself - I just know I've heard it several times. Jeff mentioned the head of the bolt holding the S/G adjustment arm since the PTO basket pulley could slip back against it. I've heard that sound before and I don't believe that's what I'm hearing. I think one of the springs in the PTO itself, has let go, lost it's spring action, or possibly one of the screws has gone loose, both of which would allow the clutch plates to slip and turn freely and/or rub the disc. Tim, although I don't think you'll harm anything further running it the way it is, as Kraig already noted, you could also spin the PTO pulley by hand WITH THE ENGINE OFF and see how loose it is, or if it wobbles on the bearing. Because of the bearing it rides on and the 6 set screws used in the assembly, I don't think it could come off on it's own, but it may wobble all over and break the tabs off your clutch disc. Let us know what you find. Please make sure the engine is OFF when you are checking this PTO pulley.

Hydro Harry
Old Cubs Never Die (but they do get to spinning and a scraping)
 
Hey Guys,
Someone previously messed with the clutch rod linkage on my Original and the parts diagram is a little vague on assembly, particularly with the clutch rod clevis to clutch yoke connection. The diagram calls for the clevis pin, clevis and a spacer. I have no spacer on mine, does anyone have the dimension or at least length of one? I assume it goes between the clevis and lower arm of the yoke, to help keep the clevis somewhat centered in the yoke.
 
Harry and Kraig. Too add even more confusion, the manual shows the RH10 plug (I'm using the Champion H10C) with different ignition types.
Battery .035
Magneto .025
Gaseous
Fuels .018
I don't know what they mean by gaseous fuels. This manual was issued on 4/90 and replaces publication ENS-575. It's for K-Series K91, K141, K161, K181, K241, K301, K321, K341.
More fun with Kohler!
 
Tom Hoffman

Not much wind here today, but I hung this up.

board-post.pl


Then found some Cubs to get batteries installed !

board-post.pl
 
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