• This community needs YOUR help today. With the ever increasing fees of everything (server, software, domain, e-mail) , we need help. We need more Supporting Members, today. Please invest back into this community to help spread our love and knowledge of IH Cub Cadets. You get a lot of great new account perks including access to private forums. If you sign up for annual, I will ship a few IH Cub Cadet Forum decals too in addition to all the account perks you get. You can see what it looks like below.

    Sign up here: https://www.ihcubcadet.com/account/upgrades

Archive through March 21, 2011

IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum

Help Support IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

jbliler

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 10, 2007
Messages
713
displayname
Jerry Bliler
Good job Harry! Found something else for everyone to fight over.
 
Ron - the bag of chains came with a 106 but it does appear to have that "International" in letters like used on the Original. I'll have my son check the chains to see. I think he even got the original tractor purchase receipt which also listed the chains, wheel weights and snow blade.

Jerry - fighting over??? Naw, it's mine (or will be when the mail arrives.

Hydro Harry
Old Cubs Never Die
(and sometimes they come with nice old bags)
 
Hey Harry nice find!
When I purchased my 1973 149 the PO gave me a set of chains in that same bag? The chains were rusty so was the bag. I still have them out in the barn. I should get them rusted chains out of the bag!
 
Matt: I'm thinking about new wheels because (1) I'm drooling over the "wide" wheels on Cub Specialties' web site, and (2) I noticed the wheels featured on the "Super Steer" write-up.

222800.jpg


I also noticed the tapered wheel bearings on the "Super Steer" write-up. I haven't seen them called out in Parts Lookup nor have I seen any other reference to them, that is, how to source the wheel and bearing.

222801.jpg


Both Charlie's wheels, and the "Super Steer" wheels have provisions for greasing them without disassembly. Of course, I suppose I could add grease fittings to the wheels I have now.

Dennis: I've already about decided to match the new tire with another new one. I just won't have identical tread patterns all-the-way-round. Like I said, I'm not a tire guy and I haven't quite made up my mind how I want to configure that portion of my tractor.

Part of your post caught my attention:

Begin Previous Post
============================================================
<font size="-1">By Dennis Frisk (Dfrisk) on Monday, March 21, 2011 - 10:28 am:
. . .
The side-to-side mower height is adjusted with BOTH the eyebolts at the frt of the decks,
and one side of your mule drive should have an adjusting bolt to adjust side-to-side height.
. . .
</font>
(emphasis added)
============================================================
End Previous Post

I'll go check the manual, but I've had the mule drive off, and I never noticed there was an adjustment.

Where is the height adjusting bolt on the mule drive?
 
Hydrostatic Harry...
They did sell a lot of them.Here is one of two I have.These are the gripper type.
222804.jpg
 
Robert K.
That's the EXACT same diagram that's in the Cub Cadet Parts Look Up at the top of every page on this site!
 
Lewis P - I see your bag has a different part number. I think there is a cross reference in the back of some of the parts manuals. Have to check and see.

Thanks,
Hydro Harry
Old Cubs Never Die
(but their chains keep on getting twisted)
 
Jeremiah-
The wheels and tires were completely sourced from Northern Tool. A spacer had to be made (don't remember the dimensions for sure) to allow the seal to have something to ride against and to seat the tapered roller bearings.

And if you want to do "one better", you can find 1/2" fine thread bolts with IH stamps and the proper taper pilots for wheels if you keep your eyes peeled in a farm equipment salvage yard (I found several IH and WP stamped bolts on the rear wheels of combines)
 
Any body have a good source for the 5 pin ignition switch wiring harness plug on an 82 series?

Mine just about 1/2 melted on the loader and killed the PTO clutch supply wires.
 
Apart from the Cub Cadet Parts Lookup site, I frequently use www.partstree.com. Not just for Cub cadets but most other tractor brands. And in my opinion its easier to use.
 
Steve "The Plow" Blunier: I can't help you with a new one, but I've liberated several plugs from Off Topic tractors. I always pull the wiring harness out before I junk them. Perhaps one of your neighbors or co-workers has a garden tractor rusting away in a field or barn near you.

Just a thought.

Dennis: I realized this morning that you must be talking about that slotted bolt & nut that attaches the "sissor lift" portion of the mule drive to the rock shaft that lifts and lowers the deck. I must have been having brain farts last night.

Wyatt: Thanks for the info.
 
PAUL - The CUB Farmall rearend that the CC used was designed LONG before Hy-Tran was created, it used 90W gear oil. That said, I've never used 90W in a GD CC and I've never heard of anyone using it but I suppose it would work. I would not use anything as heavy as 85W-140. There are channels cast into the housings for oil to flow to the bearings and 85W-140 does NOT splash around well at low temps. GD's aren't fussy about what they're lubed with but I wouldn't stray too far from a 30W motor oil. And I wouldn't use ANYTHING that didn't meet Sauer-Danfoss's recommendations in a Hydro if I was going to use something other than Hy-Tran.

JEREMIAH - WYATT put a TON of work into the frt axle, hubs, & wheels on that CC. We did a "Before and After" steering test in my driveway. It's visibly MUCH stronger, better designed than the IH design, and turns MUCH much tighter.

If a Degree was offered in "Tire-ology" I'd probably have about a Masters Degree. Frt & rear tires on CC's normally matched brand-wise when new, IH mostly used GY, but also Firestone and some BFG. But due to the different tread designs between frt & rear tires the tread never matched front to rear. As long as both frts are the same and both rears are the same that's about the best you can hope to do.

And yes, the link that attaches the mule drive to the rockshaft was what I was talking about, one side is "fixed" and the other is adjustable. My little 38" deck seldom needs attention. And I'm ALWAYS tinkering with my 50" deck to get it closer. My old 44A deck wasn't near as tempermental as my 50" deck.
 
I'm a little confused (seem to stay that way).

Yesterday I went to time the 147 and found it has the timing window on the bearing plate and only "SP" marked on the flywheel. According to the manual it's suppose to have the "S" and "T" marks and the timing window should be in the flywheel housing. The 73 is the only model in this manual with the timing window in the bearing plate. Does anyone know what is going on here? The engne "looks" orginal in every way.

Any help will be appreciated.....Wayne
 
Steve B.-

I've heard NAPA has them, but I've never tried to get one, so I don't know for sure.

Robert K.-

Partstree has the same navigation interface as the CC parts lookup does, but several errors have been discovered in the partstree lookup, which is why I only use the CC one.
 
Well, finally finished converting my 682 to a 782 (except brake adjustment). That was a project, took about a month, but everything works as advertised and no leaks. I’m anxious to hook up the tiller & see how it does with that. After tilling the garden, I’ll change the filter.

BTW, I’d like to get some kind of gauge or pointer to show lift height. Does anyone have one or know where I can get it?

222815.jpg

222816.jpg

222817.jpg

222818.jpg
 
Thanks to everyone that helped me with my project. I couldn't have done it without you guys. Special thanks to Don T, Matt G., Dennis F., Steve B., Charlie P., Kraig M., and many others for making this task possible. I love this forum!!!
 
Back
Top