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Archive through March 19, 2007
- Thread starter kweaver
- Start date
Help Support IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum:
Charlie,
Speaking of a weak reverse, the 129 has almost no reverse.
I have tried adjusting the linkage and even went as far as loosing up the linkage plate and adjusting it as per the manual to find nutral, and still have very little reverse.
Now I have notice that the PO might have used the wrong type of hydraulic oil in the trany, it is a butterscotch color, not red like Hy-Tran.
I have gotten a new filter and 2 gallons of Hy-Tran to change out the oil, even picked up a new rear cover gasket so I can clean out the bottom of the tranny.
My hopes is that after I change out the oil and filter with new it will pick up on the reverse. If not, how much of a job is it to change/ repair the reverse valve? or is it even possable to do so?
Speaking of a weak reverse, the 129 has almost no reverse.
I have tried adjusting the linkage and even went as far as loosing up the linkage plate and adjusting it as per the manual to find nutral, and still have very little reverse.
Now I have notice that the PO might have used the wrong type of hydraulic oil in the trany, it is a butterscotch color, not red like Hy-Tran.
I have gotten a new filter and 2 gallons of Hy-Tran to change out the oil, even picked up a new rear cover gasket so I can clean out the bottom of the tranny.
My hopes is that after I change out the oil and filter with new it will pick up on the reverse. If not, how much of a job is it to change/ repair the reverse valve? or is it even possable to do so?
Jack,
NO NEED to apologize man!
There's been lost worse than that on the main forum and will be again, LOL
NO NEED to apologize man!
There's been lost worse than that on the main forum and will be again, LOL
Lonny,
I'll betcha after you change everything and maybe do the operation neutral adjust, that you'll be amazed at how fast reverse will come back.
It's an easy fix, which I probably should have done years ago on the 1450,but like I said, I'm lazy!
Take the fenders off, clean up the valve area really well and unscrew the valve or just switch'um to see which one is weak (if it really is). If it is weak, cleaning sometimes fixes them.
I'll betcha after you change everything and maybe do the operation neutral adjust, that you'll be amazed at how fast reverse will come back.
It's an easy fix, which I probably should have done years ago on the 1450,but like I said, I'm lazy!
Take the fenders off, clean up the valve area really well and unscrew the valve or just switch'um to see which one is weak (if it really is). If it is weak, cleaning sometimes fixes them.
Charlie,
I just hit me, the reverse valve is one of those valves on the top of the hydro pump with the release knobs on the top.
Dont you just hate CRS.
And I have seen the repair of them posted many a times.
I just hit me, the reverse valve is one of those valves on the top of the hydro pump with the release knobs on the top.
Dont you just hate CRS.
And I have seen the repair of them posted many a times.
Lonny,
I like to call'um nipples, but yep, that's them.
I like to call'um nipples, but yep, that's them.
C
cdlong
Guest
I got the "basket case" 129 back together. Rewiring is done. Went to crank her last night & no key. I see the switch is different from my Sears & the pullers are all push button. Is there a universal key for the Cub cadets or do I need to change the switch?
Thanks
Thanks
Digger,
I'm sorry, I guess I don't know enough about the CERMA stuff to know the difference between a 'treatment' and a 'maintenance dose'.
I assumed that a maintenance dose was simply a small addition to the original treatment addition; so I further assumed that if it shouldn't get a maintenance dose, it shouldn't get any dose...???
Never-the-less, I'm glad to hear it has worked so well for ya!
If it works that well I may have to budget for a jug or two of it to add to my Cubs, the backup power generator, the walk-behind rototiller, push mower, weed whipper, truck, wife's car....DANG! after that list, now I'm reminded why I'm broke and tired...
Ryan W
I'm sorry, I guess I don't know enough about the CERMA stuff to know the difference between a 'treatment' and a 'maintenance dose'.
I assumed that a maintenance dose was simply a small addition to the original treatment addition; so I further assumed that if it shouldn't get a maintenance dose, it shouldn't get any dose...???
Never-the-less, I'm glad to hear it has worked so well for ya!
If it works that well I may have to budget for a jug or two of it to add to my Cubs, the backup power generator, the walk-behind rototiller, push mower, weed whipper, truck, wife's car....DANG! after that list, now I'm reminded why I'm broke and tired...
Ryan W
Lonny B.,
Interesting...
Do you recall if a couple of the head bolts were a tad loose near the grease spot on the fins?
If not, maybe check the torque of the bolts near the spot on the 129?
Regarding your 127 hazing blue now after the head gasket change, did you mess with the carb at all or did you ONLY change the head gasket?
Have you re-torqued the head bolts?
Ryan W
Interesting...
Do you recall if a couple of the head bolts were a tad loose near the grease spot on the fins?
If not, maybe check the torque of the bolts near the spot on the 129?
Regarding your 127 hazing blue now after the head gasket change, did you mess with the carb at all or did you ONLY change the head gasket?
Have you re-torqued the head bolts?
Ryan W
LONNIE B.- Oil consumption on Kohlers shouldn't be much. On My 72 which I rebuilt and have run all 1500 hours on the clock I can run about three 5 quart fuel tanks on about four ounces of oil...maybe 1/4" on the dipstick. If I'm not pulling it hard it may burn a bit more since the rings aren't forced out against the cylinder as hard. I've changed the oil every 30 hours on that engine, sometimes less and VERY seldom more. If Your burning half a quart per tank of gas I think You need a rebuild.
I'm not sure what the guts of that K241 will look like when I rebuild it this fall...It's a std. bore block with file-fit +.010" rings in a lightly honed bore. I know I'll need at least a +.010" piston & rings but since the last rebuild lasted twenty-two years I know the next one will last longer. It's going in Dad's old '65 #70 to make it a 100 and be semi-retired except for an occasional PD, etc.
I'm not sure what the guts of that K241 will look like when I rebuild it this fall...It's a std. bore block with file-fit +.010" rings in a lightly honed bore. I know I'll need at least a +.010" piston & rings but since the last rebuild lasted twenty-two years I know the next one will last longer. It's going in Dad's old '65 #70 to make it a 100 and be semi-retired except for an occasional PD, etc.
Just had to share this with ya. It was posted over on the yahoo Cub group by Mike Sloan.
CC 100 that was modified by the Florida
state mosquito commission back in the 1960s. I suspect that few people
have ever seen a Cub Cadet with that kind of implement! I got the image
from the Fall/Winter '06 edition of "Wing Beats" - the official
publication of the Florida Mosquito Control Association. The device is
described as an "aspirator" with no other information. I am guessing
that it is designed to suck mosquitoes up from the grass and put them in
a collection bin/bag for identification. I contacted the magazine editor
who was kind enough to send me the image, but he knew no more about it
than I do.
CC 100 that was modified by the Florida
state mosquito commission back in the 1960s. I suspect that few people
have ever seen a Cub Cadet with that kind of implement! I got the image
from the Fall/Winter '06 edition of "Wing Beats" - the official
publication of the Florida Mosquito Control Association. The device is
described as an "aspirator" with no other information. I am guessing
that it is designed to suck mosquitoes up from the grass and put them in
a collection bin/bag for identification. I contacted the magazine editor
who was kind enough to send me the image, but he knew no more about it
than I do.
I guess they found a use for a rear PTO.
pscilipote
Active member
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- Peter S
I am looking for some guidance. Got a 122 - where the drive shaft connects to the engine (kinda rests in the driving plate assembly)- leave dry or put some kind of lubricant here to prevent metal against metal wear?
If lubricant is recommended, what is the best that will not dry out or when cold bind up and thus cause the drive shaft to continue to turn even with the clutch disengaged.
Thanks for your help.
Peter
If lubricant is recommended, what is the best that will not dry out or when cold bind up and thus cause the drive shaft to continue to turn even with the clutch disengaged.
Thanks for your help.
Peter
Dennis F.,
I'm gathering info for rebuilding a K301. You mentioned that you rebuilt your K241 with 'file-fit' rings. I realize that your K241 has a slightly smaller bore (3-1/4" vs. 3-3/8") than a K301.
What was the ring end gap you settled on?
What would you suggest I aim at for ring end gaps with the K301?
Thanks in advance for your expertise!
Ryan W
I'm gathering info for rebuilding a K301. You mentioned that you rebuilt your K241 with 'file-fit' rings. I realize that your K241 has a slightly smaller bore (3-1/4" vs. 3-3/8") than a K301.
What was the ring end gap you settled on?
What would you suggest I aim at for ring end gaps with the K301?
Thanks in advance for your expertise!
Ryan W
RYAN - Since My bore on the K241 was slightly tapered and not perfectly round I ended up slightly over the goal I was looking for of .012"/.014" Old race engine builders used to say .003"-.004" per inch of bore and since air cooled engines run hotter than water cooled I wanted a bit more clearance. I think My top ring was .017" which was the maximum listed in My service manual. The other rings I can't remember but they aren't as important. FWIW, the +.010" K-321 I assembled each ring was perfectly fit at .010"-.012" clearance for the 3.510" bore.
I really find trying to stagger ring end gaps a waste of time....but I do it... Years ago a gentleman named JENNINGS wrote excellent technical articles for CYCLE MAGAZINE....Dave Kirk & I discussed Him at some length a while back. I still have His one article saying piston rings rotate around the piston in the groove at a rate of ONE revolution per every 8000 engine rpm. But the article failed to explain IF all rings rotated the same direction. Since those rings won't stay put why bother? Only exception to this rule are the pinned rings in 2-stroke engines to keep the ring ends from sticking out the ports in the cyl. bores. Which You can imagine makes a REAL big mess!
Any more questions just hollar...If I'm lucky My 72 & K321 should be a "ROLLER" this weekend....Don't confuse this with a "RUNNER" Still many details to figure out. But so far things have gone as planned. I took the carb ALL apart to install the new throttle shaft/bushing kit a month ago and I just can't build up courage enough to drill on that carb!
I really find trying to stagger ring end gaps a waste of time....but I do it... Years ago a gentleman named JENNINGS wrote excellent technical articles for CYCLE MAGAZINE....Dave Kirk & I discussed Him at some length a while back. I still have His one article saying piston rings rotate around the piston in the groove at a rate of ONE revolution per every 8000 engine rpm. But the article failed to explain IF all rings rotated the same direction. Since those rings won't stay put why bother? Only exception to this rule are the pinned rings in 2-stroke engines to keep the ring ends from sticking out the ports in the cyl. bores. Which You can imagine makes a REAL big mess!
Any more questions just hollar...If I'm lucky My 72 & K321 should be a "ROLLER" this weekend....Don't confuse this with a "RUNNER" Still many details to figure out. But so far things have gone as planned. I took the carb ALL apart to install the new throttle shaft/bushing kit a month ago and I just can't build up courage enough to drill on that carb!
Ryan - All rings / engines are suppose to have the ring end gap checked and filed per the end gap measurement as stated by engine and or piston manufacture. They never go out of the pack straight into the rebuild without checking.
On the Cerma, it is for any metal to metal contact. If I still had my cheap Enco 13x36 metal lathe I'd for sure add it to the gearbox to lessen the vibration.
Charlie - Have you smelled the exhaust yet from the Cerma treatment ? I checked the Rodeo last night when the ol lady got home ... it doesn't have that eye / nose burning smell anymore. The Rodeo is also running smoother now than it has the whole 7 - 8 months that we've had it. Check the "Call in" recording of 12-21-06 @ 39 minutes as to why I stuck my nose in the exhaust.
On the Cerma, it is for any metal to metal contact. If I still had my cheap Enco 13x36 metal lathe I'd for sure add it to the gearbox to lessen the vibration.
Charlie - Have you smelled the exhaust yet from the Cerma treatment ? I checked the Rodeo last night when the ol lady got home ... it doesn't have that eye / nose burning smell anymore. The Rodeo is also running smoother now than it has the whole 7 - 8 months that we've had it. Check the "Call in" recording of 12-21-06 @ 39 minutes as to why I stuck my nose in the exhaust.
Art, here's a couple of recent photos of the UPS Cub. I don't know if you noticed it when you had it, but a previous owner had drilled out the tunnel-to-frame spot welds and bolted it back together. Had that not been done I wouldn't have gotten the hydro release lever out of it for Thomas without removing the hydro. This also will make it easier for my wagon project. I had planned on using the Cub Cadet frame to make a wagon (kind of like the one Terry B. has just made) and with the tunnel out of the way it's one less step for me.
Dennis F.,
Thanks for the 'file-to-fit' data, discussion and offer for further help. It's hard to top real-world experience & advice!
KENtuckyKen,
Thanks. I knew all engine piston rings are suppose to have the ring end gap checked. I was just wondering if Dennis went to the high side or the low side of the spec in the Service Manual. Now I know that he went to the high side - and I understand his reason for it & I'll likely do the same.
Sounds like you're happy with the results thus far with the CERMA additive in your wife's Rodeo. I'll be anxious to hear your final opinion on the CERMA treatment once it's got a few more miles under it's belt.
Thanks again, Guys!
Ryan W
Thanks for the 'file-to-fit' data, discussion and offer for further help. It's hard to top real-world experience & advice!
KENtuckyKen,
Thanks. I knew all engine piston rings are suppose to have the ring end gap checked. I was just wondering if Dennis went to the high side or the low side of the spec in the Service Manual. Now I know that he went to the high side - and I understand his reason for it & I'll likely do the same.
Sounds like you're happy with the results thus far with the CERMA additive in your wife's Rodeo. I'll be anxious to hear your final opinion on the CERMA treatment once it's got a few more miles under it's belt.
Thanks again, Guys!
Ryan W
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