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Archive through March 15, 2011

IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum

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Well-known member
Jan 6, 2011
Timothy M. Pennell
I rebuilt the #26 that I had, made adjustments according to the book and she started right up. Now on to the next obstacle I suppose. Thanks everyone for all the info on carburetors.

Tim P.
Denis F
I`am resisting the tempttation to take the piston back out of the 12K .The pain meds are working good this am and I feel better. Wife said don`t go out and work on the tractors yet .So I will listen to the boss lol. Just wish it was something going on here to keep be busy. I had my video card on the house confuser melt down also this am. I will have to fix that soon.The spares I have won`t fit in the mother board slot
.Now I know why they keep changing these confusers ,so you can use older parts.Later Don T

(and I did post in the sand box earler this am)
I hear talk about "welding up the trunnion" in a hydro. Is this what they talk about? All I have is an arc welder, will that do?

Thanks Charlie, as usual I didn't think to look there. Exactly what I needed!
NORM - yes, that's exactly the problem. Most people use MIG or oxy/acetylene and braze those corners up but if you're good and have the correct rod you should be able to arc weld those up.

To be honest, I have some 1/16 inch 6013 arc rod I can weld about as thin a metal with as I can MIG. I've arc welded .040" thk steel on my old junky dump cart.

CCS sells a repair piece that you just weld on that's got the correct size square hole in it I recommend. I made my own before they were available. Then you don't have to put near as much weld heat into the hydro lever, shaft, and risk burning the seal.

I checked the slot dimensions with the procedure Charlie gave me the link to and they're pretty close. I just see the cut notches in the two corners. Couldn't I just weld them up or does it hurt anything?

By the way, I'm not familiar with the stik rod I should be using to weld this. Do you know what's best?
NORM - Yes, the only wear on the rectangular hole will be in those two corners. For whatever reason the end plugs that center the two springs push that way and the end plugs wear those grooves or slots. I have seen the other two corners wear but not as much as those two.

Yes, you can just try to weld up those two areas but they are so very close to the edge of that lever there's not much metal to absorb and dissipate all the heat of welding. Very likely that whole thin side of the rectangle will melt off where those grooves are wore, especially the one that's wore the most.

I've actually had the best luck using either 3/32" AWS 6013 or 5/64" 6013 rod on thin stuff like that. The 1/16 inch rod I mentioned has so very little metal in the rod you end up having to hold the arc so long you end up with more heat in the part. The 3/32" 6013 should be easy to find, I suspect the 5/64" just about IMPOSSIBLE.

You could use a small diameter, 5/64" or 3/32" 7014 rod but it's even less popular than the 6013. And there's also 7024 rod and to be honest, I've wanted to try it for 25 years and have NEVER been able to find it when I've looked for it! There is 6011 but it's for deeper penetration and you don't want that. There's also 7018 but you have to run it at higher amperage which is more heat and you don;t want that either.

All those rods I mention work fine on an AC or DC output welder. If you have DC output Your lucky, and you should use electrode negative or "straight polarity" when you weld this.

I'd also suggest backing the weld area up with a piece of copper to support the metal and dissipate the heat to FREEZE the metal quickly.

And both during and after the welding is done use a sopping wet rag wrapped around the lever to cool the lever so you don't melt the rubber lip on the shaft seal.
NORM - And when you weld with that wet rag around the lever & shaft.... be careful. Even though you can arc weld under water, welding around wet things CAN electrocute you.
RICHARD - I made mine from some scrap 1/4" steel I had. I didn;t cut the worn lever off, just bent it a bit more and welded the piece I made right over the top. It's been working fine for 3-4 years now.

My only regret is I didn't remove the hydro and replace the cork gasket when I was that deep into the 982. I thought long and hard about it but didn't because of ALL the hydraulic lines running into the hydro. Maybe next time. A non-ported hydro is easy. I did my 129 in a couple hours. I spent a whole day on the 982 removing the 3-pt, rear PTO, fenders, etc. & replacing them. That 3-pt rockshaft has 5-6 bolts into the frame one each side!
Norm B. Out of curiosity. Is that from the ported or non ported hydro pump that you've been working on? As for the welding.... Lots of good suggestions. Me..? I'd use modeling clay wrapped around the metal along with the wet rag. Or to quote Julia Roberts in Pretty Woman. "Me? I just do it...."

Of course .... Then there is always the third option of taking the dang thing to a welding shop if you're afraid that you're going to be screwing it up welding it.

<font size="-2">Running for cover with that last one.</font>
Dennis, with using 1/4" steel for the repair you should remove the hyphen in your 3-4 yrs. now and just say it will last another 34yrs. and then some.
I hear ya' on bending things a bit. Even after shimming/playing with the lever and cam plate I did some "bending" to place the springs in a center line position.
RICHARD - The "First repair" of the trunnion by a prior owner of that 982 was comical. One day while mowing I went to slow down to turn or ???? and pulled the hydro lever back and I didn't slow down. Moved the dash lever further and finally slowed and stopped. I eased my way over to the shop and pulled the center tunnel cover. Guess I never checked that close when I bought the tractor but the l-o-n-g slender, maybe 3/32 inch cotter pin used to form the whole missing side of the trunnion that Norm's was worn on had "broken". The springs and end plugs were MIA.

My temporary fix to finish mowing was even better! Two big nylon tie straps tying the two levers together!
Hey, it lasted for the next 6-8 mowings till I was done mowing for the year and fixed it right.

I have no idea, but I would find the correct engine for the 108 and use that. That Onan engine has some ridiculously expensive parts. If the starter quits, that's about $600, and a gasket set is $250, etc...
Richard T - That's a really good repair, looks great!

I went ahead & welded it. I didn't want to have to wait on another part and figured if I screwed it up I could always get that kit from Charlie. All I had was 6011 rod, turned it to 75 amps. Had to weld on both sides. Looks crude but I don't think it came out too bad. At least I got some metal there. Good suggestion by Dennis about the wet rag. Thanks for the tips, Dennis


When I was welding on my last car project the fender metal was very thin so I used a piece of copper clamped to the underside. Not only did it disapate the heat but it acted like a floor for the area that I was filling in. When I removed the copper the molten welding wire had formed a perfectly flat backside to the fender that needed no grinding.
Ok, I am a greeny and this is my first restoration and first CC ..everybody get your smacking hand out. I went through the FAQ and didn't find the answer I'm looking for so here goes. I have a 66 102 without a hydro tranny so.....I want to take off the rear end cover and change the rear end fluid. Am I still using Hy-tran fluid or gear oil/rear end fluid? If so what should I be using? Start smacking, and thank you for any responses, it would be greatly appreciated.