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Archive through March 11, 2012

IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum

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FWIW the newer shutoff valves have a screen that's inside the tank. A filter added to the line should be one that's made for gravity flow. I kind of like the option of the older style sediment bowl - they can be a pain, but there's a certain sense of accomplishment when it comes to cleaning that little glass bowl and seeing the crud that hasn't gotten to the carb.
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FRANK - IH replaced the sediment bulbs on the newer tractors. I proudly admit to NOT having any sediment bulbs on any CC's, using in-line filters on them all. The Super H & M have sediment bulbs but also have in-line filters to catch the junk the sediment bulbs let pass.

Things like this may not be factory original, but if it's on a tractor you expect to use and be reliable why not upgrade to something better?!?!
 
Follow-up from a couple weeks ago regarding a 125 that would peg the needle to drain when keying "start". Turned out I pinched a wire from the safety switch with the bolt that holds the bracket for the chute adjust rod. Dumb-de-dumb-dumb-DUMB!
 
I'm ready to drill the holes to mount a NF hydraulic lift on a 100 and then a 1x2. I downloaded the installation instructions for both models, from this and another web site, and discovered that the vertical location for the 3 mount holes are different for the two models. The vertical C/L of the holes are the same, and are keyed off the right rear engine mount hole. The horizonal C/L for the two bottom holes is 1-1/16" below the top hole C/L, for both models and is keyed off the location of the top hole. The C/L of the top hole is 3/4" below the top of the frame rail on the 100, and 1-3/16" for the 1x2/3 and later NF models. My question is why are the hole location's different since the frame rail height of the two series are the same? Does the vertical location on the rail really make any difference as long as the holes are in the correct relationship each?

I am working on a bare frame, and the only reason I could think of for them being in a different location, is maybe a clearance issue once the rockshaft/lift arm/foot rest etc. is installed. To confuse it more, on a 123 I just bought that has a hyd sys installed, the top hole C/L is 1-1/16" from the top of the rail, the best I can measure (and see) without taking it off.

Does it make a difference or can the same figures be used for any NF model? The 3/4" distance listed for the 100 would put the bolt/nut pretty close to the inside of the flange at the top of the frame rail, but would give more belt clearance on the rail edge. The 1-3/16" of the 1x2/3 and later models would give more room for the bolt/nut, but put the belt closer to the rail.

What locations have any of you used? I'm thinking of going someplace in between the two, an C/L the top hole about 1" down from the top of the rail, unless someone knows of a reason not to. Anyone have an answer?
 
I'm about to rebuild my K321.

Do I need to go full Kohler genuine parts, can can I get away with aftermarket parts? Any particular parts you recommed should be Kolher?

Any particular aftermarket brands you recommend, or recommend I stay away from?

Do any of our sponsors sell rebuild kits?
 
James - I have always used Prime Line rebuild kits and have. Been pleased with them.
 
Paul Bell

I will have to note what you find out is the reason for the two different procedures used to install the optional NF hyd pump. I do want to add one on my 125 some day or my 100 . Now I will need anther pulley for the 125 because I don`t have a good replacement .
 
Donald T.
I don't know what the difference is or why, but after looking at the two manuals for awhile, it finally sank in (DUH) one manual, and measurements, covers the 70, 71, 72, 100, (which all use the same frame), and the other covers 102,122,123,104,105,124,125 (same frame). The model 73, 1X6, 1X7 are already factory drilled for both the electric lift and the hydraulic lift. So I guess IH had a reason to use different hole locations between those models......just wish I knew why. Maybe once I get them installed on the 100 and 1X2, I'll know.
 
James S.,

I am in the process of putting my K321 back together for my 1450. Unless you have a better memory than mine (and I'm sure you do) take lots of digital pictures. I thought I did but now I'm having a difficult time figuring out what goes where.
 
James S - I hope alot of the guys respond to your question about whether to use genuine Kohler parts or aftermarket parts in your K321 rebuild. One thing for certain is that the genuine parts have a proven history while aftermarket parts may still be proving themselves. I think for the most part you can still find genuine Kohler K321 parts although it might take some searching since I don't think Kohler is producing most if any of them anymore, but not completely sure. However, there are many dealers out there with alot of NOS parts. I've never done a complete rebuild on my own. I've always had a pro do it or assisted someone I consider a pro. My comments are based on this experience, what I've been told by these pros, and what I've seen when assisting them in doing it. When it comes to the rings, piston and connecting rod, I certainly lean towards Kohler, and even for the head gasket. I don't think the price difference between Kohler and aftermarket for just these parts is more than $100, which is probably worth the peace of mind knowning they should be good for 10-20 years of use. The pros will likely want to stick with Kohler for these parts as well unless they can see the aftermarket part and have some sense that it at least looks good and will work. It's a touchy feely thing - if it looks good and feels good it probably has a better chance of actually working good. May sound strange but I've seem some aftemarket rings and got strange looks and comments doubting if they really work. Going on to other items, if you're looking for a new crankshaft I don't know if they are available aftermarket except from someplace that does them special for puller engine use and they are pricey. I have heard/seen NOS cranks around that could be had for not to great a price. In my view when it comes to a crank I have to think they could be found in used condition, and machined to re-useable spec's, which is the only thing I've ever done. As for main bearings, I've heard 2 stories - that they are always pitted and need replacing, and the exact opposite, that most guys almost always reuse them. They are so substantial they almost never fail anyway so I lean to the latter for my use. And when it comes to the other things like gaskets and seals, well, aftermarket will likely work ok. I don't have a specific preference just a matter of whether they are actually good quality. I've not really had that many engines completely overhauled and I never kept and used any long enough to have developed a known history. About the best I can say is that for the few I've had completely rebuilt I never heard of the next owner having a problem. My Kohler 341A sitting in my 169 in the garage has a Kohler .003 oversized piston, Kohler .010 over-sized rod, original crank ground .010 under, original main bearings, and the remainder of the gaskets, etc all original Kohler items. It doesn't have more than about 10hours run time in 10 years so it's not really a good example except to say it's all original parts. There certainly has to be some guys on here that can speak from their actually experiences using long hour rebuilt engines, so lets see what they have to say. My son is getting close to having a couple engines rebuilt so I'd like to hear the latest recommendations myself. With regard to the sponsors, I think at least most can provide genuine Kohler parts, and at least 1 or maybe 2 is a Stens dealer as well, and has that aftermarket brand available. In my view it's always worth speaking directly with them to get some history of their experience using these parts in their shop if they have one, and their customer feedback if they do and don't have a shop. I don't know of any particular brand or part that has a reputation for being a problem. I have heard alot of the aftermarket head gaskets are not up to the quality of Kohler, and they use cheap materials that don't hold up resulting in what should be called premature failure. Things like the gasket itself coming apart, the holes not located quite where the bolts fit, basically poor quality issues, so this is the one specific item I have used many times and do stick with Kohler. I haven't purchased one for sometime but Kohler used to package what was called a "Renew the Power Kit". It had the points, points push rod, points cover gasket, valve cover gaskets and breather filter, and the all important head gasket. Basically a major tuneup kit so you would use when de-carboning the head and piston, replacing the points, and adjusting the valves. I discovered the price for this kit was about $5 more than the price of just the points with a push rod - almost a no brainer. It's kind of hard to find a dealer that carried it but if you can't and want one shoot me an e-mail and I'll see what I find in my records. Hope this helps and the other guys post their experience and recommendations.

Hydro Harry
Old Cubs Never Die (and having their Kohlers reworked helps)
 

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