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Archive through March 10, 2013

IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum

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kostendorf

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 19, 2012
Messages
617
displayname
Keith Ostendorf
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Marty, I got bit by the archive bug Got to go back to read my answer.
 
looks like you are showing me a replacement oils pan? I can"t read any text, only pics
 
found it. Thanks Keith. Can you share where you found the replacement unit?
 
Marty go to Archive through March 08, 2013 just above the last thread written.
 
To whom it may concern (besides me). AUTOMATIC COMPRESSION RELEASE = ACR, not ARC, as I've been seeing recently.
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Don T.

You may already know this but you will need the mounting plate w/90-degree gear box to mount the tiller on your 149. I don't see it in the pict. It mounts to the back plate of the transmission casting which is the same for both narrow frame or wide frames. You will also need a wide frame sleeve hitch on your 149 for lifting the tiller, if you don't have one, and a wide frame mule drive on the front. These rear mount tillers do a great job preparing the soil in the garden. You will like it. Hope this helps.
 
Frank-

You are so correct...my bad!

Don and I, being the exact same age, are having to deal more and more with brain farts. We both know what we should be typing but sometimes it just doesn't come out the same as what we're thinking.
 
Ron-

I think you meant to say Don will need a 3pt hitch, not a sleeve hitch. The sleeve hitch is the big "U" with the vertical sleeve and isn't used in mounting the tiller. Also, at the very bottom of the pic he showed might be the plate you're speaking of...it's hard to tell.

Just thought I'd throw this in.
 
Ron/Wayne,
Actually the bug "U" shaped thing is the Sleeve Hitch Adapter.
 
Well, I got the 169 finished enough to drive it around a bit.

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So, in review, here's what it got:
•All new seals in the hydro-pump
•Welded up trunion and added bushings to tighten up linkage
•Welded 'stub' on driveshaft to repair wear
•New driveshaft "rag-joint"
•Repaired driveshaft (slotted) engine coupler, and new pin
•Degreased engine
•Removed engine balance gears
•Add "Kirk" RED aluminum breather cover with weep tube
•Decarbon, resurface head and reinstall with new head-gasket
•Repaired broken Hyd Lift handle linkage under dash
•Sandblast, repaint rims and new tires (late last summer)

It needs a few more details before it's ready to hook up the tiller, but it sure will be nice to have a tractor that doesn't have a bunch of "problems" everytime ya go 'till the garden. It still needs the head-gasket retorqued, 'nut-serts' installed under the tunnel cover, and some rubber hood bumpers.
 
Art- Nice to see the 169 back in action. Do you have your hourmeter and sideshields for it? that would make it a nice complete 169
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Looks Good Art, sounds like sensible changes all-round, but I'm curious about the "•Welded 'stub' on driveshaft to repair wear". I'm not familiar with the repair you mention. I need to repair my 149 drive train.
 
WTG, Art! I'll be glad when I can post a pic like that! The ground won't be white, but hopefully green and not brown!
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Tom-

Whether you call it a sleeve hitch or a sleeve hitch adaptor...it isn't part of the tiller set up. Right?????

That was simply my point.
 
Steve B. nice 582. Your monkey comment was very pc of you, or you could have said it runs out very well.
Tom H. Did you buy something from Paul Bell? Just curious.
 
Jeremiah-
This stub on the back of a 1X9 driveshaft gets wown down after about... Oh... 38 years.

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<font size="-2">Picture borrrowed without pemission from Charlie's parts-bin above. LOL</font>

I just added a little dab of <font color="0000ff">Miller-Matic</font> to bring it back to spec.
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Ryan-
I have an hourmeter and sideshields, but the sideshields don't have the donut-hole in them for the tick-tock.....YET!
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Steve-
I'm with Bubba. Nice rig! Now yank that B&S outta there and toss in a Mag 20, then ya got a REAL tractor.
 
Shultzie

I found the orginal coulter mount for my Brinly plow.
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Coulter Standard (Part that connects to plow frame):
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bottom view:
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I added a split collar to keep the fork (part that connects to coulter)from moving up the coulter standard.
 

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