Archive through March 06, 2013

[hydroharry]

Bill J - you really need to hear from someone that has been there done that and got the IH award. To go the route you suggest you have to know where to mount the spring loaded brackets, and whether the eye bolts at the front are in the correct locations. If I were you I'd be going the other way around. I'd get the basic pin on sub-frame with the fork, and just swap over the QA mount part and mule drive from your 126 sub-frame. It's not the easiest thing to use those pin on hangers on the rear of the deck, but not that terrible either. But going this route it everything should mount right on your 126 and be in the correct locations.

 

[sshaff]

Kraig, my setup doesn't have the piece attached to the top bolt on the plate shown in your photo, which could also be, and probably is, the adjuster handle on that one (as you mentioned)...but turning the knob underneath the plate (shown in my pic) does adjust the belt tension, at least temporarily.

 

[dbell]

682 hydro with Kohler KT17hp L head twin. PO replaced points but not condensor. PO tried fixing a broken wire on the condensor that goes the points. I have the new part for condensor. Should I go ahead and replace the regulator or wait? I was told the new points and condensor causes the regulator to go bad.

 

[gedwards]

I have a creeper box I am working on and took it apart and forgot which way the sliding collar that the shift arm goes around is to be turned. It appears to have a longer shoulder on one end than the other. Can someone tell me (or show me in a diagram) which way it is to be turned. These things are a bear to work on so I only want to do it once. Thanks in advance for any help.

 

[kmcconaughey]

Steve S., in that photo that I posted for Tom, what you see that appears to be attached to the top bolt is the U-Joint for the chute rotator hanging down, the top bolt is hidden behind it. The other bolt that appears to the top bolt is the mounting bolt for the gear box. The belt tension handle is shown sticking out the front 90° to the mounting plate.

I think your best bet is to drill a hole in the belt tension adjusting handle and add a wire to keep it from loosening.

 

[dtanner]

Greg Edwards

The parts look up above usually will give you a picture of the parts and how they fit together. Does this help you.

 

[gedwards]

Donald T-- Thanks! It does. It appears the shorter shoulder goes towards the transmission by this photo.

 

[dschwandt]

How far into the basket is the clutch friction disc supposed to go??

I've definatly got something haywire here with this 73 PTO clutch. Got it all back together w/the parts Charlie (THANKS!!!) sent. The bearing seats in the pulley against the snap ring nicely, the bearing slips onto the C/S and seats against the inner stop on the end of the bearing, the locking collar does it's thing w/no problem, the basket pulley lines up w/the S/G but the clutch/bearing assly will not go on far enough to engage INTO the basket. Just barely touches it before everything bottoms out on the crank. It's almost as if the crank is TOO long!!??GRRRRR!

This could have been the problem all along!! and the PTO clutch may have been OK to begin with until I tried to engage it and busted the discs alowing everything to get loosie goosie.

What with this being a black replacement engine...with a wierd bolt on exhaust pipe and short stubby oil dipstick and tube This (to me at least) sounds like a plausable explanaation. This thing was never right from the getgo IMHO
What say you guys??

I'll have to measure just how much C/S is protuding out from the basket pulley.

Film at Eleven!!
Dave

 

[hydroharry]

David S - yup, sounds like it's time for "film at 11". The clutch fiber disc is supposed to go "just far enough into the basket - just far enough to operate correctly

.
You don't have much choice for the location of the basket pulley. It has to line up with the S/G pulley. If this leaves your PTO clutch fiber disc outside or on the fringe of the basket, then you can try removing the big inner snap ring on the clutch pulley so the bearing will slide on a bit farther, but if you slide the bearing on past the end of the crankshaft then the metal engagement button on the PTO won't have room to move so the clutch won't disengage. You may well have to cut some of the crankshaft length off.
We're waiting on the film at 11 (and I hope that is 11PM European time, which is about 3PM Pacific - my time) Actually, you should slide the basket pulley back off the C/S and measure the length of the C/S so we know. I think it's supposed to be 3 and 1/2 but no quoting me.

 

[dtanner]

David Schwandt
Harry

:

David as long as the front of the disk is inside the PTO basket your good.

You can move the basket pully closer to the end of the crank.It has a key and can be slid : put anywhere to have the pto set up correctly.Most times it is tight for the starten generator adjusting belt tensioner bracket BOLT and the basket pulley( it will scrape on the bolt).If you have your PTO set up with the locking collar and bearing correctly . sounds like it was not a Cub cadet replacement engine. Measure the crank from the end to the engine case. And tell us what it is.

 

[dfrisk]

HARRY - There is a center hole, or countersink hole in the end of the crankshaft that would let the locator pin on the thrust button extend back slightly from the frt face of the C/S, and some of the C/S's were drilled/tapped w/ 3/8" NF threads too.

I have the K161/181? whichever it is out in the shop with the basket pulley still on and the PTO clutch & pilot bearing off. If Dave measures his C/S length outside the basket pulley I can confirm if it's right. The friction disk on that PTO engaged the basket just fine.

 

[hydroharry]

Don T - there ya go again telling stories:
"You can move the basket pully closer to the end of the crank.It has a key and can be slid : put anywhere to have the pto set up correctly."
You cannot do this. The pulley on the basket pulley has to line up with the pulley on the starter generator (which is what I already said). You can't just go moving the basket pulley where ever you want it. If you do you'll just throw the S/G belt off.

Dennis - yes, if the C/S is tapped or indented it might be just enough.

 

[dtanner]

Harry Bursell

I bet the

would hate this. But I had 50' of this waiting to find a use for.

 

[dfrisk]

HARRY - V-belts tolerate a fair amount of misalignment between the two pulleys. They have to be out of alignment a LOT before they throw the belt off. And you can always shim the S/G forward on it's mounting bracket, or elongate the two mounting bolt holes in the bracket for the bolts that go into the block and move the bracket & S/G forward, OR, you can do ALL the above.

There has to be some amount of adjustment between all those components. It's not like they're all made to +/- .0001" tolerances. More like +/- .010" to .030" tolerances.

 

[dfrisk]

DON - I used RED Convoluted conduit on some wiring I ran on my 982 10-11 yrs ago. There was already some black there from the factory!

 

[hydroharry]

Don T - nope, that stuff won't bother the correct police. It's covering the wires for the point saver so you already moved into different scoring class. WHAT DOES BOTHER THE CORRECT POLICE is the lack of paint, and rust on the inside of the dash pedestal directly across from the throttle cable shown in your pic!!!!!
Now I ain't the police - but you posted the pic for everyone to see it.

Dennis - I sorta wondered about the tolerance for the S/G and the Basket pulley, but I'm thinking since the Basket pulley can be moved Kohler didn't allow tollerance on the S/G, but all on the Basket. The PTO clutch tollerance is probably 1/4" or so on how much needs to be inside. I'm suspicious that Dave has a crank an extra 1/2" long and why he's running into trouble.

 

[pbell]

David S
Because your engine is painted black, it may very well be a replacement engine, but just not one for a Cub Cadet, specially with that goofy exhaust (that is in the Kohler master parts list). There are 16 different crankshafts for the K181, with the main differences being the length/diameter/shape of the PTO end of the crankshaft. I would say that a PO replaced the engine with what he had/found rather than with a correct spec number K181 engine for the tractor model. A K181 is a correct replacement for the K161 in a model 73, but it has to be the correct spec K181 for everything to fit.

 

[dfrisk]

HARRY - I've never measured a friction disk for the PTO, but would Guess-timate them to be 3/16" thk, and I like to see them recessed into the basket 1/8 to 3/16 inch from the forward edge of the basket back to the forward face of the disk.

I don't think I'd remove the the snap ring from the clutch hub and set the hub further back on the pilot bearing. There'd be nothing to keep the hub from working further back on the bearing, and could keep the PTO from disengaging.

Ohhh And that un-painted area you say on Don's tractor.... That's where the PAINT RUNS are supposed to be from the factory. While working on the 70 it's AMAZING how many paint runs there were inside the frame.

 

[sshaff]

Kraig -- Yes, we're understanding each other, then. What you circled for the belt tension adjuster is exactly like mine. Your pic confused me earlier because I didn't recognize the chute rotator rod from the way it rested on the bolt. I like your suggestion about using wire to secure the tension handle and will try that before installing a jam nut.

 

[hydroharry]

Dennis - you're right about the big snap ring inside the clutch pulley assembly. I confused it with the snap ring inside the bearing that keeps the bearing from sliding completely onto the C/S. We had a discussion on here awhile back about that, and don't know if you were a part of it. If the PTO bearing has the really thin little snap ring on the inside it won't allow the bearing to slide on flush with the end of the C/S. Some said it wasn't necessary, I thought it didn't matter if the bearing was slightly forward or flush. I think David could remove this little thin snap ring so he could get his bearing on flush (if not already) and it might allow his fiber disc to be inside the basket enough to operate ok.
Ooh, and one more thing - how come the paint runs are only on the inside? IH must have had some technique to make sure the outsides were good.

David S - sorry about my earlier comment, but do NOT remove that big snap ring inside the clutch pulley. You must have it installed in order to align the clutch pulley correctly. If your PTO bearing has a little fine/thin snap ring inside it which keeps the bearing from going fully on the C/S, then you can remove that snap ring and install the bearing flush with the end of the C/S - which might just put your fiber disc a little bit more inside the basket.