Archive through March 01, 2011

[dtanner]

Well guys I bought another Cub Cadet ! Po thinks and I do that its a 125 .engines runs fine po said but it just won`t move when I move the handle like it use to. After a little time on the phone I know whats up , seems the charge pump star gear is split in two pieces.He said he would throw in a kohler ac dc gen with it. It has a 7 hp engine that runs also.PO took it apart and painted the tractor and now it won`t run.I have no idea what colour he used and it will make a good parts tractor I think . I will soon hit a dozen lol.

 

[jchamberlin]

A Hypothetical Question:

'Tis better to crack the head and clean the carbon, or treat the machine to MMO?

Working on a twin-cylinder motor: assume that the compression is the same for both cylinders, and that either plug can be grounded without the engine producing a lot of smoke.

In other words, there is no indication of mechanical failure, but it has been over the recommended interval of 500 hours since the heads were removed from the block and any carbon build-up has been removed from the combustion chamber.

How many would open up the motor to remove the carbon; and how many would simply run Marvel Mystery Oil at the recommended ratios in the fuel tank, trusting the MMO to do the cleaning?

I'm trying to decide myself and I would appreciate hearing the opinions of others.

 

[lpalma]

Don T you are catching up to me.Are you sure it wont move because the valves are stuck down?
Here is my latest,128,came with a mower a blower and a blade.

 

[tpennell]

Lewis, if the blade gets in your way I will gladly take a drive North to move it for you.

 

[dfrisk]

JEREMIAH - Carbon build up in a combustion chamber depends on LOTS of things. Type of fuel, how hard it's been run, condition of the engine, temp's the engine is operated in... and others. Just saying to R&R heads @ 500 hours is assuming lots of things.

Check my post from 6:40 AM today back a page. Or Art A's suggestion. IMHO, MMO does nothing to remove carbon deposits. Don't like to remove heads & replace gaskets to clean carbon either. Seems like a waste of a good gasket. And a high risk of getting something between the piston & cyl. wall that scratches the wall or binds and sticks a piston ring.

 

[tpennell]

Does a piston on a 301A normally have .20 stamped in the top or has this engine been torn apart and rebuilt previously?

 

[dtanner]

Timothy M. Pennell

That would mean that that engine has been rebuilt to 0.020 and could be bore to 0.030 yet if needed. I have a few here with a 0.030 bore and they work great. lots of power and torque. Later Don T

 

[dtanner]

Lewis Palma
Yep I`am positive as to what is wrong with the tractor. I spoke to the owner and he told me he took the front two bolts out of the hydro and there was pieces of a star that fell out. I asked if he noticed a small pin and he said yes the pin was through the shaft. I asked if he took anything else off the hydro and he said no . So to sum this up I`am sure he has a broken charge pump and maybe a destroyed drive plate. I can use the parts to rebuild my 107 lol or repair the tractor. I will know more on Friday . later Don T

 

[lrjohnson]

 

[lrjohnson]

[No message]

 

[tpennell]

Don T.
I thought that the stamp was a sign, also the intake valve clearly looks newer than exhaust. I got as much crap off as I could now just waiting for precious package from cc specialties. What is the original bore?

 

[mgwin]

Leon,
You might want to edit your post and hit the enter button at least once between each photo before Charlie wakes up!

 

[aschumacher]

Leon, nice pictures of your tractor.
(Just measured... need a 56" wide to view all at once !)

Leon, on future posts please put one or two 'enter' between pix. That stacks them and prevents CinemaScope effect.

 

[lpalma]

Leon,
You did well.What a nice 71. Does the 122 for $900 look to be in the same condition?I can't believe that old Presto lite battery still works.
And don't get rid of that box!!!
Don T
Oooh well....

 

[lrjohnson]

lewis, this tractor is a savivor there is no play in the steering or any thing else. as for the batery is long dead just left it in as found for pix. the 122 is in reel fair shape, but steering does have a lot of play and the tires are tired...

 

[kmcconaughey]

Leon, I fixed your photos so they don't make everyone's screen go wide. Regarding the 71, WOW!

 

[thoffman]

Leon,
I wouldn't touch a thing on that 71. It's a good example how things used to be made in America. Not like the cheap crap you see today. You won't find a tractor of today looking like that in 40+ years.

 

[lrjohnson]

I agree with you tom. I have a great appreciation for the old stuf. Ihave never seen tires that have bin flat for 40yrs pump up and hold air with no dry rot. amazing. that goes for the fan belt to, its in awsome shape, sill has some yellow paint on it ,

 

[jchamberlin]

Dennis

Thanks for the response to my query regarding MMO and whether or not to crack open the engine to clean the carbon. I found your post on the previous page, and your discussion from Aug. 13 2010. You and Kevin Hill were really dusting it up, with Donald Tanner stirring the pot, er, chipping in.

In fact, I followed "Carbon AND Deposit" all the way back to July 25, 2004 where Steve Blunier "Mr. Plow" offered his thoughts.

For my part, I agree with Steve (and even Kentucky Ken) that MMO is best used to prevent catastrophes, not fix them. If I needed a quick fix to an acute problem on a machine I could "spare," I might try the water treatment. But for right now, I'm going to monitor the engine's performance. I'll be sure to idle it before cutting it off, especially when its hot, watch for any back-fire or run-on and run MMO in the gas, not the oil, if only for its stabilizing effect.

I'm running MMO in my Chevy S10 with over 180,000 miles on it, and I swear it has more power, as if frozen rings were freed up. But then I've been getting injector errors too. Kraig would probably tell me that the errors are simply proof that the MMO is working, and he may be right.

Anyway, I'm going to continue to use it in the fuel, soften up the carbon, and when the time is right, open up the cylinders to clean, inspect, and measure "to see exactly what I've got."

 

[lrjohnson]

I found a Yard Wagon that will go good with the Tractor. It is about the same year as the Tractor. Overall it is in good shape, could use new paint as you can see.