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Archive through March 01, 2007
- Thread starter kmcconaughey
- Start date
Help Support IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum:
Ok, I've discovered the tunnel and got the cover off. But I'm not sure what to do next except start poking things.
There seems to be an awful large amount of play in the clutch, it moves several inches before I encounter any real back pressure, and thats where the tractor will move, only at that sweet spot.
I adjusted the free play a little, but maybe it needs more than a little.
There seems to be an awful large amount of play in the clutch, it moves several inches before I encounter any real back pressure, and thats where the tractor will move, only at that sweet spot.
I adjusted the free play a little, but maybe it needs more than a little.
WAYNE - I wish Kraig was here to post a picture of what Your looking at is supposed to look like. Those little springs on the clutch disc on the three roll pins don't cause that problem unless You have a part of a broken spring between the clutch friction disc and the steel pressure plates. Sounds like a linkage part came out of the clutch lever on one end or the other and maybe a roll pin sheared on the clutch shaft and isn't moving the throw-out lever enough. Move the clutch pedal by hand while watching what the linkages do. The rod from the pedal shaft to the throw-out arm has to move about 2 inches or a little more to disengage the clutch.
The main clutch spring is busted, thank you very much to the Service Dept at Carter Gruenewald and everyone here for helping me diagnose it.
Now, to get the clutch out...big fun, I'm sure awaits me, if I can even get a spring overnighted to me in this blizzard. If not I'm going to have one sore back from shovelling!
Now, to get the clutch out...big fun, I'm sure awaits me, if I can even get a spring overnighted to me in this blizzard. If not I'm going to have one sore back from shovelling!
Wayne,
Depending where the spring is broken, here is what needs to be done to repair the clutch. It is probably a solid evening or afternoon of work.
Detatch the clutch linkage from the throwout lever
Remove the mounting bolts and slide the engine forward a couple of inches, or remove it from the frame
Detach the throwout lever from the frame. There is a clevis pin holding this in place
Remove the roll pin holding the driveshaft to the input shaft of the transmission.
This should let you remove the clutch as an assembly. If a new spring isn't forthcoming soon, and the spring is broken near one end, you might be able to McGyver it by removing the short piece of broken spring, and replace it by some type of a collar, even a large nut that fits over the drive shaft to make up for the lost length of the spring. This is a desperation move though, as the whole thing will have to come out again when you get a proper spring for it.
You also want to check the throwout lever and bearing for excessive wear as well, and put a little grease on driveshaft where the throwout bearing and pressure plate ride.
Depending where the spring is broken, here is what needs to be done to repair the clutch. It is probably a solid evening or afternoon of work.
Detatch the clutch linkage from the throwout lever
Remove the mounting bolts and slide the engine forward a couple of inches, or remove it from the frame
Detach the throwout lever from the frame. There is a clevis pin holding this in place
Remove the roll pin holding the driveshaft to the input shaft of the transmission.
This should let you remove the clutch as an assembly. If a new spring isn't forthcoming soon, and the spring is broken near one end, you might be able to McGyver it by removing the short piece of broken spring, and replace it by some type of a collar, even a large nut that fits over the drive shaft to make up for the lost length of the spring. This is a desperation move though, as the whole thing will have to come out again when you get a proper spring for it.
You also want to check the throwout lever and bearing for excessive wear as well, and put a little grease on driveshaft where the throwout bearing and pressure plate ride.
I like the MacGyver idea, my spring wont get here until at least Saturday and it will be too deep to plow by then even for a Cub. Its totally wild out there and it hasnt even gotten bad yet.
Sure wish I could McGyver it without taking the clutch out though...
Which part is the throwout lever? By disconnecting it do you mean to remove the freeplay adjusting nut?
Can I get the clutch out by removing the drive shaft at the back, without moving the engine? Someone suggested that might be possible, though I dont know which is easier.
Sure wish I could McGyver it without taking the clutch out though...
Which part is the throwout lever? By disconnecting it do you mean to remove the freeplay adjusting nut?
Can I get the clutch out by removing the drive shaft at the back, without moving the engine? Someone suggested that might be possible, though I dont know which is easier.
WAYNE - The best way to service the clutch is to slide the engine forward. Four capscrews, 9/16" heads hold the engine in, one on each side directly over the frt axle and another one about 6" behind those. Nothing needs to be disconnected from the engine if I remember right...You may need to remove the grill to gain room but on a 108 I don't think so. Use a small punch to drive the second roll pin from the back end of the driveshaft out and put the whole driveshaft and throw-out lever in Your vice. Remove the pin holding the pressure spring on the driveshaft, install new spring, install collar & rol pin...reinstall the driveshaft.
I've never had a wideframe gear drive....all Mine have been narrow frames which means difficult to do driveshaft work....
I've never had a wideframe gear drive....all Mine have been narrow frames which means difficult to do driveshaft work....
Thought I'd check in from home to see what all was going on out here in Cub land.
Wayne, I'll be posting some pages from the service manual to help you with your 108. Here is the first set of 6 pages.
Wayne, I'll be posting some pages from the service manual to help you with your 108. Here is the first set of 6 pages.
Denny, I still think you were doing like me and using the Cub Cadet as a GO-KART!
Wayne, here is the second set of pages.
I should point out that page 2-21 and the top of page 2-22 is for the Quiet Line series.
Wayne, here is the second set of pages.
I should point out that page 2-21 and the top of page 2-22 is for the Quiet Line series.
I sure miss the cable modem I have at work. I sure hate dialup!
Bruce.
Wayne, here are the last set of pages.
Bruce.
Wayne, here are the last set of pages.
The only things I can envision are to use some type of a split collar arrangement that has screws to clamp itself back together that you can slip behind the broken spring. The other thing I can think of is to try to drill a hole in the driveshaft that is forward of the original hole so you can move the rear spring stop forward. I've actually done this, but not while the driveshaft was still in the tractor.
Looking at Kraig's photos, you would need to be able to compress the spring so you can drill the hole and move the washer and roll pin up to the new hole. Good luck and let me know if you figure anything out!!
Looking at Kraig's photos, you would need to be able to compress the spring so you can drill the hole and move the washer and roll pin up to the new hole. Good luck and let me know if you figure anything out!!
mmiller
Well-known member
- Joined
- Jul 17, 2006
- Messages
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- Michael A. Miller
My niece's husband is looking at a CC1000. Garage kept, no rust, runs good. Comes with a 42" deck. The guy wants $200 for it. I looked it over and it is really nice. I told him to grab it.
Any comments or opinions on 1000's?
Any comments or opinions on 1000's?
On that broken clutch spring, I have taken the spring pieces, and put the two smooth, normally the outer, ends of the spring together and add a washer to the throw-out bearing end and reinstalled onto the shaft, after grinding the sharp broken ends of the spring pieces. This works good if spring is only broken into two pieces. This just reminded me that my 122 has had this temporary fix about 20 years ago, and is still working. If there are more then two pieces, just add a washer inbetween the broken spring pieces.
