mgonitzke
Well-known member
Don T.-
Supers have 8.5" rims.
Dave R.-
I used the standard 8.5" rim meant for the 10.50" tires.
Supers have 8.5" rims.
Dave R.-
I used the standard 8.5" rim meant for the 10.50" tires.
-
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Archive through June 28, 2010
- Thread starter choover
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Help Support IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum:
mgwin
Well-known member
Andrew,
I've got Carlisle on the rear(23x8.5-12) and Deestone on the front(4.80x8). It's not a 129, but a close relative; a 128.
I've got Carlisle on the rear(23x8.5-12) and Deestone on the front(4.80x8). It's not a 129, but a close relative; a 128.
jdiederichs
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- displayname
- Jim Diederichs
I read the discussion on guages on a Cub Cadet, interesting topic. Nobody mentioned adding a hydro temp guage, which I think would be a good addition. I'd like to see waht values are reached when plowing for example, or a clean hydro vs. a hydro that is covered with dirt and debris.
Often thought about thermocoupling one, but an installed guage would be cool (or maybe hot?)
Often thought about thermocoupling one, but an installed guage would be cool (or maybe hot?)
Andrew Smith
Those tires are Carlisle 16x6.5x6 4 ply and are great loader tires . I like them for weight carrying a full bucket.
Gerry Ide
The po had painted the 129 that colour and now is painted again.
Matt Gonitzke
I had to go out to the shop and measure the spare rims and yes they are 8.5" .But I think i read that an option on the supers would have 12" rims ?
Kevin Hill
I used PF engineering plans and bought a 4 to 8 gal a minute pump from Nothern Tool and it does run off the front pto (brake style) and worked great for 2 years till I sheared off the key last week.I do think I have the pump pressure set to high and that is what caused the problem.
Those tires are Carlisle 16x6.5x6 4 ply and are great loader tires . I like them for weight carrying a full bucket.
Gerry Ide
The po had painted the 129 that colour and now is painted again.
Matt Gonitzke
I had to go out to the shop and measure the spare rims and yes they are 8.5" .But I think i read that an option on the supers would have 12" rims ?
Kevin Hill
I used PF engineering plans and bought a 4 to 8 gal a minute pump from Nothern Tool and it does run off the front pto (brake style) and worked great for 2 years till I sheared off the key last week.I do think I have the pump pressure set to high and that is what caused the problem.
Andrew S.
Those are 23x10.50's on that 169.
Those are 23x10.50's on that 169.
hydroharry
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- displayname
- Harry Bursell
Dennis, Gerry, Roy, et al - on the gauges, I'm really in agreement with Roy here. Many of us are not guru's of what all this would mean. Also, David Kirk has extensive experience, knowledge, etc., and I don't see temp gauges on his dash - he does have a tach. I believe his gauges are part of his tool box, and his 1250 is a daily user (not sure when he uses the 107 but we all need a spare).
So, the debate will certainly continue, until what I know certain temps would mean, what I might do or should do at certain temps, what the problem might be at certain temps, etc. This is the real world info I believe Roy was getting at. For me, when I was using my Cub every week, I thought if I got 2000 hours out of a rebuild I was doing quite well. I figured I was putting an average of 100 to 150 hours a year on my unit (mostly weekly 3 season use for mowing, winter snow time limited use) and so I should get at least 10 years and more likely 15 years under proper care. I bought my 1st Cub in when I moved to CT, a 1450 with K321AQS just rebuilt by a JD dealer. I moved and sold it at 14 years with the engine having never been touched, other than routine maintenance, oil changes at 20-25 hours, me being finiky about the timing and checking and adjusting if necessary at every oil change, decarboning the head/piston about 3 times, but never had much there to remove, etc. And I have to say it was still running strong, and without any temp gauges when I sold it.
If Dave K happens to come up with a gauge set up that is realistic and not subject to break everytime you change your plug, or change your oil, then I would consider it, as long as I knew what the data/info meant, and what I should do if I'm outside some limits, etc.
Now, one thing Dave Kirk mentioned a few times in the past is "giving your engine a treat" by changing the oil early.
Dave K- if you're out there and see this, how often do you change you engine oil??? And, are you doing any market and development research on temp gauges for air cooled engines??? Seems there may be alot of guys might like to have something.
Marty G (under edit) that sure is a nice looking 128. I can't see the seat cushion but the pan looks original. Is it something you did yourself?
Hydro Harry
Old Cubs Never Die (and their hour meters may be subject to temperature changes)
So, the debate will certainly continue, until what I know certain temps would mean, what I might do or should do at certain temps, what the problem might be at certain temps, etc. This is the real world info I believe Roy was getting at. For me, when I was using my Cub every week, I thought if I got 2000 hours out of a rebuild I was doing quite well. I figured I was putting an average of 100 to 150 hours a year on my unit (mostly weekly 3 season use for mowing, winter snow time limited use) and so I should get at least 10 years and more likely 15 years under proper care. I bought my 1st Cub in when I moved to CT, a 1450 with K321AQS just rebuilt by a JD dealer. I moved and sold it at 14 years with the engine having never been touched, other than routine maintenance, oil changes at 20-25 hours, me being finiky about the timing and checking and adjusting if necessary at every oil change, decarboning the head/piston about 3 times, but never had much there to remove, etc. And I have to say it was still running strong, and without any temp gauges when I sold it.
If Dave K happens to come up with a gauge set up that is realistic and not subject to break everytime you change your plug, or change your oil, then I would consider it, as long as I knew what the data/info meant, and what I should do if I'm outside some limits, etc.
Now, one thing Dave Kirk mentioned a few times in the past is "giving your engine a treat" by changing the oil early.
Dave K- if you're out there and see this, how often do you change you engine oil??? And, are you doing any market and development research on temp gauges for air cooled engines??? Seems there may be alot of guys might like to have something.
Marty G (under edit) that sure is a nice looking 128. I can't see the seat cushion but the pan looks original. Is it something you did yourself?
Hydro Harry
Old Cubs Never Die (and their hour meters may be subject to temperature changes)
Hydro Harry,
Change oil? Your supposed to change the oil in these things?
Hmmm, Let see. I've had the 1450 for going on 7 years, it's been to many many plowdays, it's blown more snow and pushed more dirt than I care to remember and I've not changed the oil yet!
Of course that nasty ole snake oil I use MIGHT have something to do with it too.
Then again, I'll bet there's guys out there that still mix oil with the gas for their chainsaws too ain't there!
Change oil? Your supposed to change the oil in these things?
Hmmm, Let see. I've had the 1450 for going on 7 years, it's been to many many plowdays, it's blown more snow and pushed more dirt than I care to remember and I've not changed the oil yet!
Of course that nasty ole snake oil I use MIGHT have something to do with it too.
Then again, I'll bet there's guys out there that still mix oil with the gas for their chainsaws too ain't there!
Charlie: funny you should mention using oil for chainsaw gas. thats what i use 90% of the time in all my 2 cycle equipment, but everything but 1 trimmer and 1 blower gets motor oil instead of 2 stroke oil. they are trash picked, so free to me best price 
. if anything goes wrong with them, in the parts bin or scrap pile they go. the only ecceptions are my brand new ryobi trimmer and a weedeater blower i trashpicked, it doesnt seem to of had any use when i found it. plug looked almost new, no carbon on muffler, even had new fresh gas, cant get better than that. i figure, its oil at least in that stuff. since the stuff was free, oh well if something happens. its one way to see how well they were made, if it can take my gas mixes lol
. if anything goes wrong with them, in the parts bin or scrap pile they go. the only ecceptions are my brand new ryobi trimmer and a weedeater blower i trashpicked, it doesnt seem to of had any use when i found it. plug looked almost new, no carbon on muffler, even had new fresh gas, cant get better than that. i figure, its oil at least in that stuff. since the stuff was free, oh well if something happens. its one way to see how well they were made, if it can take my gas mixes lol
Justin H.
You missed my point I think.
I DON'T mix oil in my gas. Not even in the new Husqvarna or the ole Cub Cadet chainsaw I use all the time.
You missed my point I think.
I DON'T mix oil in my gas. Not even in the new Husqvarna or the ole Cub Cadet chainsaw I use all the time.
- Joined
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- Messages
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- displayname
- Home of the Plow Special
Kraig-
You're plates are done. <font size="-2">(And don't complain about the time-line. It only took me 3 months to weld them together!)</font>
Charlie-
So what's keeping the engine from melting into one chunk of aluminum? Just the gasoline???
You're plates are done. <font size="-2">(And don't complain about the time-line. It only took me 3 months to weld them together!)</font>
Charlie-
So what's keeping the engine from melting into one chunk of aluminum? Just the gasoline???
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- Home of the Plow Special
Kendall-
What's Dis??....
Diff-Lock?
Turning Brakes?
Turbo Waste Gate Valves?
What's Dis??....
Diff-Lock?
Turning Brakes?
Turbo Waste Gate Valves?
sblunier
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- Aug 4, 2006
- Messages
- 4,826
- displayname
- Steve Blunier "Mr. Plow" (Central IL)
Rim width is the same for 23x10.50 rubber and 26x12 rubber on a Cub Cadet, the only difference is the back spacing. On the SGT's the rim center is welded very near to flush with the rim bead where on the std GT's the center is offest several inches.
26x12 and 23x10.50 tires will look and sit the same on rims off of a 982 or a 782, but they will not fit the tractor the same due to the backspacing difference.
26x12 rubber does NOT fit well on rims designed for 8.50 tires, it rolls way over on the side wall and ballons the tread (so do 10.50's for that matter).
I think some of the SGT Deeres used wider rims for their 26x12 rubber and it shows in a flatter tread and shorter stance. Pullers often widen rims for the same reasons...
26x12 and 23x10.50 tires will look and sit the same on rims off of a 982 or a 782, but they will not fit the tractor the same due to the backspacing difference.
26x12 rubber does NOT fit well on rims designed for 8.50 tires, it rolls way over on the side wall and ballons the tread (so do 10.50's for that matter).
I think some of the SGT Deeres used wider rims for their 26x12 rubber and it shows in a flatter tread and shorter stance. Pullers often widen rims for the same reasons...
Art,
Those are called rudders!
Those are called rudders!
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- Aug 23, 2006
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- 2,912
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- Allen Schumacher
I love the artifical horizon gauge...is that for driving when you really shouldn't be driving ? ? <font size="-2">(Do eyez has time fur anothr Coors?)</font>
kphill
Well-known member
Gerry, Do you have to have your IFR rating to operate that tractor?..
hydroharry
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- Harry Bursell
Gerry - now were talking GAUGES!!!! And ON TOPIC to. Where did you find the pics?????? I remember some old IH literature on PIPER - Pre-Introductory-Prototype-Equipment-Repairs. I had forgotten all about these test units IH sent out to the field. They stuck all these gauges on them cause they didn't want the field guys to repair the stuff. If they did, they would never know what broke. So IH added about 6 different gauges to everything so the field wouldn't know what was wrong or right. Course back in those days the only thing the field guys new about gauges had to do with the buckshot they used. To them these things were really meters (and I ain't talking those things that are about 40 inches long). Dang it's been a long time since I seen this old PIPER stuff. Sure glad you brought it up.
Charlie, Charlie, Charlie - you never change your oil???? Dang, had a friend when I was in the Navy brought his car to the hobby shop. Brother gave him his 2 year old 1972 Olds. It had been his brothers company car, and the company didn't allow maintenance. It had 66k miles and never had the oil changed. My friend figured it might be time. We put it on the lift and unscrewed the oil plug. Guess what came out???? NOTHING!!!!! We had to use a screw driver to dig thru it and then it started to come out like tar. We got what we figured was about 2 quarts out, change the filter, added oil to the full line, and he drove off. He sold the car that weekend to someone in PA. Whew. Now I know you're an MMO guy, but never change your oil???? Even MMO must recommend doing it sometimes. Oil not only cools but it's a cleansing agent and removes stuff that just doesn't burn!!! (At least at the temps these things are suppose to run at - maybe you should get some temp gauges).
BUT - I do have one for ya. Never could get a good answer to this one. Why did IH put drain plugs on the manual shift tranny but not on the Hydro???? The only answer we could arrive at was cost. The manual shift should really NOT have the drain plug. It's the one unit you really should look at the gears. And get this, per the maintenance chart (see Kraig's post) the manuals and Hydros both only need the fluid changed as needed. Now how are you supposed to know when "as needed" really is??? I've drained several manuals shifts, and half of what comes out is water. Dang, I think they should have the fluid changed ever year. The Hydros on the other hand, hardly ever have what looks like water. I do know IH Spec B-6 for HyTran has something to do with the fluid absorbing 50% of it's capacity in water AND I don't think you should be leaving all that water in the rear end. But the other thing here as for a drain plug on manuals vs. Hydros, the gears in the Hydros always look great and you really don't need to look at them. On the other hand, the manual shifts do show wear and should be looked at. Just could never figure this one out.
Do you Grear Grinders out there have a look, or do you just drain and fill, and run with it???? Ooh, and I almost forgot the following:
Note to Charles H:
You asked the capacity of a Hydro, but your profile notes you have a 106, which is a manual shift tranny. If you are changing a manual shift tranny then capacity is 7 pints (not quarts per the chart provided by Kraig. If you are changing fluid and filter in an "IH" CC Hydro then it is spec'd at 14pints/7qts, but generally you can't fill it with more than about 13 pints. Fill it till the fluid is right at the bottom of the fill plug hole, or just starts running back out - and be fast installing the plug. Then start her up and let it circulate a bit so the filter is filled for certain. Shut her down and cool a bit, then remove the fill plug SLOWLY. If fluid starts running out, it's just right. If it's not running out then fill just to the bottom of the fill plug hole.
Hydro Harry
Old Cubs Never Die (and who ever said oil and water don't mix was wrong - just check out IH Spec B6)
Charlie, Charlie, Charlie - you never change your oil???? Dang, had a friend when I was in the Navy brought his car to the hobby shop. Brother gave him his 2 year old 1972 Olds. It had been his brothers company car, and the company didn't allow maintenance. It had 66k miles and never had the oil changed. My friend figured it might be time. We put it on the lift and unscrewed the oil plug. Guess what came out???? NOTHING!!!!! We had to use a screw driver to dig thru it and then it started to come out like tar. We got what we figured was about 2 quarts out, change the filter, added oil to the full line, and he drove off. He sold the car that weekend to someone in PA. Whew. Now I know you're an MMO guy, but never change your oil???? Even MMO must recommend doing it sometimes. Oil not only cools but it's a cleansing agent and removes stuff that just doesn't burn!!! (At least at the temps these things are suppose to run at - maybe you should get some temp gauges).
BUT - I do have one for ya. Never could get a good answer to this one. Why did IH put drain plugs on the manual shift tranny but not on the Hydro???? The only answer we could arrive at was cost. The manual shift should really NOT have the drain plug. It's the one unit you really should look at the gears. And get this, per the maintenance chart (see Kraig's post) the manuals and Hydros both only need the fluid changed as needed. Now how are you supposed to know when "as needed" really is??? I've drained several manuals shifts, and half of what comes out is water. Dang, I think they should have the fluid changed ever year. The Hydros on the other hand, hardly ever have what looks like water. I do know IH Spec B-6 for HyTran has something to do with the fluid absorbing 50% of it's capacity in water AND I don't think you should be leaving all that water in the rear end. But the other thing here as for a drain plug on manuals vs. Hydros, the gears in the Hydros always look great and you really don't need to look at them. On the other hand, the manual shifts do show wear and should be looked at. Just could never figure this one out.
Do you Grear Grinders out there have a look, or do you just drain and fill, and run with it???? Ooh, and I almost forgot the following:
Note to Charles H:
You asked the capacity of a Hydro, but your profile notes you have a 106, which is a manual shift tranny. If you are changing a manual shift tranny then capacity is 7 pints (not quarts per the chart provided by Kraig. If you are changing fluid and filter in an "IH" CC Hydro then it is spec'd at 14pints/7qts, but generally you can't fill it with more than about 13 pints. Fill it till the fluid is right at the bottom of the fill plug hole, or just starts running back out - and be fast installing the plug. Then start her up and let it circulate a bit so the filter is filled for certain. Shut her down and cool a bit, then remove the fill plug SLOWLY. If fluid starts running out, it's just right. If it's not running out then fill just to the bottom of the fill plug hole.
Hydro Harry
Old Cubs Never Die (and who ever said oil and water don't mix was wrong - just check out IH Spec B6)
I'm putting a cooling fan on my 149's drive shaft. The previous owner either removed it or it completely broke off. I was pleased that the drive shaft came off without having to remove the engine bolts and sliding the engine forward. I followed the instruction on page 2-45 of the Service Manual.
Two questions:
First - In several places in the manual it says, "Models with a flexible rear coupling [the rag joint] have a steel ball spacer located in the flex drive coupling to properly locate the drive shaft. Be sure the ball is in place during reassembly." I didn't find such a ball, and I don't see it in the Parts Lookup. Is this missing ball something to be concerned about?
Second - The fan is supposed to be held in place by a 3/4" snap ring. I put on a 3/4" snap ring but the fan easily moves up/down the shaft. I'll try to find a 11/16" snap ring and see it that works any better. In case that doesn't work, I thought a #6 hose clamp might work. If I nibble a little plastic between two of the fan blades the head of the hose clamp will fit between the fans inner and outer hub. A third option is getting a simple round wire hose clamp like those found on cars and washing machines. I have some, but none the right size.
Left to right: round wire clamp - #6 hose clamp - snap ring
My question is will the unbalanced weight of the hose clamp cause a problem when the drive shaft is spinning?
Will this be a problem once the drive shaft spins?
Two questions:
First - In several places in the manual it says, "Models with a flexible rear coupling [the rag joint] have a steel ball spacer located in the flex drive coupling to properly locate the drive shaft. Be sure the ball is in place during reassembly." I didn't find such a ball, and I don't see it in the Parts Lookup. Is this missing ball something to be concerned about?
Second - The fan is supposed to be held in place by a 3/4" snap ring. I put on a 3/4" snap ring but the fan easily moves up/down the shaft. I'll try to find a 11/16" snap ring and see it that works any better. In case that doesn't work, I thought a #6 hose clamp might work. If I nibble a little plastic between two of the fan blades the head of the hose clamp will fit between the fans inner and outer hub. A third option is getting a simple round wire hose clamp like those found on cars and washing machines. I have some, but none the right size.
Left to right: round wire clamp - #6 hose clamp - snap ring
My question is will the unbalanced weight of the hose clamp cause a problem when the drive shaft is spinning?
Will this be a problem once the drive shaft spins?
