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IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum

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pbell

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Paul Bell
I'm not as fond of the zig-zag grill tractors as Kraig is, specially if they have the flat top fenders. <font size="-2">but I like the 1x6/7's</font>, but since this one doesn't have the flat fenders and is the last model a recoil starter was available on, I'll give it a place in the shed with the other CC's. This one came from South Carolina and the sand had taken it's toll. The clutch and pressure plates were scored/worn nearly an 1/8" deep, and all the seals were leaking, and the condenser had to be replaced, but it now run's pretty good ahthough the governor needs some more tweaking. The engine was bored from the stock 2-7/8"to 2-15/16 at some point, and has a standard 8hp piston.
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Paul, wow, a recoil 72, nice find!
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I'm not all that fond of the sharp corners on the 1x4/5 series flat fenders, I like the look of them however those sharp corners can be dangerous.
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I am growing more and more fond of the round fenders I just don't really care for gear drive Cubs. If only <FONT COLOR="ff0000">I</FONT><FONT COLOR="000000">H</FONT> had made a roundy fendered 1x5...
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I like gear drive cars and trucks just not gear drive tractors.
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Kraig:
If you'd just give in to that inner voice and go with a 1x8 or 1x9 <font size="-2"> (IT IS NOT THE DARK SIDE..)</font> you'd have those nice curved edges and a great looking grill also...
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Paul is that hood ornament on backwards or all mine messed up?
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Nice work and glad it made it to your shed. BTW you now have a spot for a very small cooler, the size of a battery
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Kraig nice looking O you got there. Congrats on a job well done.

Denny I have a 129 that came with a ported pump and I bought a cyl and contol on greedbay to put on it.Am missing the chaarge pump relief spring or would put it together some day.
 
Justin H. Read my post from June 17th about pricing tractors and attachments. CLICK HERE. Scroll down to 8:52 a.m. and I've written about why we tend to shy away from "helping" price things.
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If you can post some pictures of the whole package is great. Personally speaking though when you said he'll also sell the snowthorwer..... everything sounds kinda pricey. (Questions to ask... Does it smoke? What kind of smoke? How good is the drivetrain? ETC.)

Paul B. Good rescue on the Cub Cadet.

Kraig M. AH-HAH!!!
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NOW the truth comes out. Secretly you are a fan of the 1x6/7 Series of Cub Cadets.
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... Art A. is going to have a field day.
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Thanks for the info kraig! I'm actually iquiring for someone else with a 122.
 
Marlin H.
Good luck on your surgery tomorrow, and great news on surviving the latest round of layoffs. At least you'll still have health insurance! BTDT with the surgery, been operated on at least 6 times, most recently last fall. It's expensive, it's painful, and not entirely without risk, but doctors these days are pretty good at what they do.

Godspeed
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Thanks to all who helped on a front pto question I had on a 128. I got it working and used it to cut my lawn a couple of times. All I can say is WOW what a nice working machine. I bought a new JD stx38 about 12 years ago which has been a good tractor, but the power and feel of this 128 is great. The greeny turns a little quicker and sharper but the cubbie sure is more comfy to ride. The jd has a kohler 12.5 but that k301 has a bunch more torque I'm guessing stroke and/or bore sizing is diff. My point is, if someone is considering buying new or repairing/restoreing an older Cub the $1500 plus would be better spent on a IH built cub. I am going to keep the 128 and sell the jd. Just my thinkin
 
I have a 1970's 1250 with a 12hp Kohler I purchased last year. Always wanted a Cub. The engine was supposidly rebuilt when I bought it. I am not satisfied with the power of my 1250. All my previous garden tractors had Briggs in them. I have noticed that the engine does not speed up when hitting heavy grass, like the Briggs do. It doesn't really bog down either. Is this the nature of Kohler or do I have a govenor problem?
 
It really shouldnt "speed up", but instead it should maintain power thru the high grass area then keep going. Kohler and Briggs each have thier own way of controling engine rpm. If the 1250 is set up correctly, the engine should loose any or barely any rpm thru any high torque demand task, unless its more than the engines HP can deal with. My 149 just changes its exhaust tone to a deeper, ie "working harder" tone, then lightens up once back in the lighter load area, be it snowthrower duty or mowing grass. Kohlers are torque monsters compared to most Briggs. You can get one of the digital hour meters for the dash that also works as a Tach and watch your RPM's as you run the tractor. Then you can see if the engine is loosing RPM or is making the correct high rpm. I usualy run mine 200rpm below 3600, which is the book rated high rpm. So, mine is set at 3400 via a digital tach we use at work. I have yet to run out of HP mowing this year, 50" mower deck. Mike
 
governor adjustment problem.

128. K301-A.

i have a very annoying stalling problem. in trying to track it down, i noticed the speed control bracket that the governor spring and throttle cable attach to, the bolt that holds it to the engine, keeps working itself loose. impossible to find a stalling problem when the throttle cable and governor arm is loose.
if i tighten it all the way down, the throttle will not move.

I have looked at the exploded parts diagram and i do not seem to be missing any parts.

what allows the linkage to move, but not allow the bolt to work its way out ?
I assume i am missing a part, or maybe it has been put together wrong.
 
Quick Question if anyone has done this, I have an extra set of rounded fenders from a 127 and I was wondering if they could be put on a 105? I normally would not replace the origanals on the 105 but it looks like a po has used them as an anvil..thanks all
 
Richard B.-

In a word...no. There's a few differences in how they mount...the 127 frame has some extra stuff welded on where the footrest bolts on to the frame in the earlier models.
 
Thanks Mike. That is what I figured. Didn't really want to chase a problem that didn't exist. When the govevnor on my Briggs didn't work they would just stall. My 1250 stays at the same RPM and power level, by sound, when it hits a heavey load for quite a while before bogging down.
 
Frank I have o'hauled my 126 & 147 and prefer the Kohler engine manual for better illustrations and procedure descriptions for most engine stuff. See section 6 for the proper procedures for the governor and throttle adjustments. Illustration 6-48 is fairly similiar to a Cub. Be careful,the text and illustrations are also there for the smaller engines which are sometimes different. In Illustration 6-48 are you refering to the "speed control Bracket"? It should be on a shouldered spacer so that you can tighten the bolt and the little bracket/lever can still move freely. Make sure that you also have the "high speed stop" which goes on the same bolt,which is used to set the maximum RPM. Make sure the governor arm does not slip on the shaft and the governor to carb linkage adj is also set correctly. After you set these items including the high speed stop, then set the throttle cable,with out disturbing the other things that you just set or you will have to start over to get proper governor and throttle action. The governor arm may slip on the shaft and be barely noticeable,I know from experience what a devistating effect that has on engine performance. The maximum engine RPM is set with the "high speed stop" and not by moving the throttle cable in its bracket. "Center" the throttle cable to allow full travel in either direction without "bottoming out". To set the maximun RPM I use an analoge tach on the 4 cyl setting times four (900x4=3600)
 
Richard B.

Yes it is do-able.

You will need to use a long bolt to attach the front of the foot rest to the tractor.
A long threaded bolt and 3 nuts and 6 washers per side works best.
 
Wayne e miller

I have the Kohler service manual.

the "speed control Bracket" in Illustration 6-48 is what i am referring to. the bolt next to the "high speed stop" is the bolt that keeps loosening.
what that Illustration does not show me, is all the parts ,and the order in which they go together.
are you aware of a better exploded diagram then the one Cub has? the one for the whole engine does not show enough detail.
or , can you give me the proper order, if you know it.
it looks like the bolt and the spacer are the only parts, maybe the spacer is on the wrong side of the bracket.
thanks for all the other tips. I think i fixed all the other problems that were causing stalling, now I just need to fix this one and adjust the governor.
 
Kendal H., thanks!
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Porter, I say the hood ornament on Paul's 72 is on backwards, I'm basing this on the brochures and other factory photos. It's amazing how many are reversed...

Kendell, Marlin, No, NO, NOOOOOO, you misunderstood! By roundy fenders I'm referring to the fender style that was used on Originals and those that were used on the 70/100, 71, 72 and the 73! NOT the reverse Jeep CJ5 front fender wannabes as found on the 1x6/7 on.
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