jbaker
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Archive through June 22, 2012
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Help Support IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum:
fcurrier
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Jeff nailed it. The combination of the seat and the tall bumpers can make you feel like you're in a Barkoulounger. Plus, the seemingly exhorbitant price you'll pay for this experience will just keep happening. I have it under good authority that the seat can be bought more cheaply elsewhere, but I'm of the opinion that once you're happy with something, stick with it.
Story: An old friend (Jim Holmes) (gone now) told me that if you do business with someone and you think that you got the short end of the stick that you should keep doing business with him because sooner or later it will equal out. He was an Old Timer, then. I'm beginning to think that I am, now.
Story: An old friend (Jim Holmes) (gone now) told me that if you do business with someone and you think that you got the short end of the stick that you should keep doing business with him because sooner or later it will equal out. He was an Old Timer, then. I'm beginning to think that I am, now.
My 126 runs fine but I like to say "if it aint broke fix it anyway". I will soon replace, at least, the points on the 126. I was debating (with myself) (this gets awkward when people hear me) wether I should change the ignition parts to a Bosch coil and Point Saver or Point Slayer or just go with the tried and true Kohler parts.
I searched this issue, knowing it has been discussed before but didn't find the info I was looking for. Would someone please discuss pro's/con's of the Slayer/Saver set up. Would there be any other adjustments to make or do you just hook them up and go?
I have asked Mr. Kirk for his advise as well. Just wanted several opinions before spending the money.
I searched this issue, knowing it has been discussed before but didn't find the info I was looking for. Would someone please discuss pro's/con's of the Slayer/Saver set up. Would there be any other adjustments to make or do you just hook them up and go?
I have asked Mr. Kirk for his advise as well. Just wanted several opinions before spending the money.
Last knight I drained the trans and can say without a doubt, it was 43 year old fluid. Sorry! No pic's. Smelled bad, looked bad, time for new fluid. There was metal dust/shavings settled at the bottom.
I thought about putting a small magnet inside at the bottom so all the metal particles would migrate to it and not continue to float around. Good or bad Idea?
I thought about putting a small magnet inside at the bottom so all the metal particles would migrate to it and not continue to float around. Good or bad Idea?
BOB - I have no experience with the Points SLAYER, but it sounds like a great ignition system. The Points Saver I've used, works great. And with the trend I'm seeing that points & condensor's are not lasting, I think anything you can do to eliminate the condensor and reduce the current the points carry is a good thing. And the Bosch blue coil is a good piece too.
On your 126, hard telling where the metal dust & shavings would have come from, but I hope you got most of it out, I wouldn't put a magnet INSIDE the housing, but putting one on the outside, or using a magnetic drain plug which Dave Kirk sells also is a great idea.
On your 126, hard telling where the metal dust & shavings would have come from, but I hope you got most of it out, I wouldn't put a magnet INSIDE the housing, but putting one on the outside, or using a magnetic drain plug which Dave Kirk sells also is a great idea.
Frank A. Currier(Northern Maine)
Your are starting to talk like politics . I have the rubber bumpers and love them , I would get about three of the seats from Charlie (I could use them ) ,but shipping would be $$$$$$$$$$$$.
Your are starting to talk like politics . I have the rubber bumpers and love them , I would get about three of the seats from Charlie (I could use them ) ,but shipping would be $$$$$$$$$$$$.
fcurrier
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Don: I should stay away from computers and telephones late on Friday nights! Knowing that you have a pair of those bumpers prompted me to try a set and it's pretty amazing the difference they make, especially when you lean back into a high back seat. I just mailed a 123 seat to South Dakota - cost just under $16. That's about the price of 4-5 gallons of gas which would take me about 100 miles. From that point of view, shipping can seem cheap.
Have a great weekend!! I'm going to get that fugly QL stripe away from the 149 hood before the weekend's over.
Have a great weekend!! I'm going to get that fugly QL stripe away from the 149 hood before the weekend's over.
jchamberlin
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Bob Proctor: From a purely technical point of view the Point Saver with a stock coil will give you the biggest bang for the buck (literally).
It is not necessary to eliminate the points, and there are reasons to keep them. As one old hot rodder noted, points allow one to "adjust" the amount of spark the engine sees: close the gap and get a "longer" spark; open the gap and get a more "focused" spark. The timing of the engine is dependent, to a certain degree, on the point gap. For an expert tuner, this is an advantage; to the average tinkerer it could present an additional challenge. You decide.
Some would say a coil is a coil is a coil, there really isn't a whole lot of difference between them, except that some have the required resistor installed inside them, and some have the resistor installed externally. The main thing is not to run a coil without a "ballast" resistor. That being said, some coils are manufactured to higher quality standards and there are subtle differences between them, so that while a substitute may work OK, the "right" coil will perform that much better.
I would start with the Point Saver and if you want to show off the Bosch Blue go ahead; your point should last a loooong time with the Point Saver because the current is greatly reduced.
On the other hand, if you just don't ever want to mess with it again, go with the Point Slayer, you'll never have to adjust points again or worry about your timing.
I can't speak to installation issues, as I haven't made either upgrade myself. But I would check on what it will take to install each item before I made a decision.
I've pretty much decided to follow my own advice, I plan on getting the Point Saver for my 149 when I finally split the tractor to do the painting. I'm undecided about the Bosch coil.
It is not necessary to eliminate the points, and there are reasons to keep them. As one old hot rodder noted, points allow one to "adjust" the amount of spark the engine sees: close the gap and get a "longer" spark; open the gap and get a more "focused" spark. The timing of the engine is dependent, to a certain degree, on the point gap. For an expert tuner, this is an advantage; to the average tinkerer it could present an additional challenge. You decide.
Some would say a coil is a coil is a coil, there really isn't a whole lot of difference between them, except that some have the required resistor installed inside them, and some have the resistor installed externally. The main thing is not to run a coil without a "ballast" resistor. That being said, some coils are manufactured to higher quality standards and there are subtle differences between them, so that while a substitute may work OK, the "right" coil will perform that much better.
I would start with the Point Saver and if you want to show off the Bosch Blue go ahead; your point should last a loooong time with the Point Saver because the current is greatly reduced.
On the other hand, if you just don't ever want to mess with it again, go with the Point Slayer, you'll never have to adjust points again or worry about your timing.
I can't speak to installation issues, as I haven't made either upgrade myself. But I would check on what it will take to install each item before I made a decision.
I've pretty much decided to follow my own advice, I plan on getting the Point Saver for my 149 when I finally split the tractor to do the painting. I'm undecided about the Bosch coil.
Hey guys
I am a relatively new mwmber since I found my first Cub stuck in a back yard mud wallow about a year ago. I now have six "runners" and three cripples.How did this happen?!!
Anyway, here is my issue:
Trying to mount a #1 Tiller on one of my rigs.
I was going to put it on the 1450 that is restored and has a new engine but I am unable to find the proper 3 point for a wide frame anywhere.
yesterday I decided to take the 48" deck off the "mud wallow" 124 model and mount the tiller to it since I do have the narrow frame lift set up. All went well until I tried to connect the long steel bar to the lift arm assembly. Apparently I am missing something (a part or some inspiration)at the point where it attaches to the lift arm. The only spot I can deduce to hook it is thru the same vertical (curved) slot that the height adjustment detent rides in. Spent several hours trying to rig up a bolt, spacer ferrel/nut/locknut/drilled hole and cotter pin.....
No joy.
Please Oh Cub Cadet Gurus, advise this poor pilgrim before I do something stupider.
I have a spring assist that came with the tiller, but also have no clue where to put it.
Digger advised me that I might have an issue with speed since I do not have a creeper on the 124.
Considered trying it on the 127, but it's got the same one piece fender setup as a wide frame so the narrow frame lift would not work there either.
I am a relatively new mwmber since I found my first Cub stuck in a back yard mud wallow about a year ago. I now have six "runners" and three cripples.How did this happen?!!
Anyway, here is my issue:
Trying to mount a #1 Tiller on one of my rigs.
I was going to put it on the 1450 that is restored and has a new engine but I am unable to find the proper 3 point for a wide frame anywhere.
yesterday I decided to take the 48" deck off the "mud wallow" 124 model and mount the tiller to it since I do have the narrow frame lift set up. All went well until I tried to connect the long steel bar to the lift arm assembly. Apparently I am missing something (a part or some inspiration)at the point where it attaches to the lift arm. The only spot I can deduce to hook it is thru the same vertical (curved) slot that the height adjustment detent rides in. Spent several hours trying to rig up a bolt, spacer ferrel/nut/locknut/drilled hole and cotter pin.....
No joy.
Please Oh Cub Cadet Gurus, advise this poor pilgrim before I do something stupider.
I have a spring assist that came with the tiller, but also have no clue where to put it.
Digger advised me that I might have an issue with speed since I do not have a creeper on the 124.
Considered trying it on the 127, but it's got the same one piece fender setup as a wide frame so the narrow frame lift would not work there either.
Sidney B Elkins
Check out this post back a page , Wayne shows where the lift arm connects . You should have the correct block to attach the lift rod.The Spring assist connect to the rear left frame rail to the rock shaft. Hope this helps.
Wayne Shytle (Wshytle) on Friday, June 22, 2012 - 02:50 pm:
Check out this post back a page , Wayne shows where the lift arm connects . You should have the correct block to attach the lift rod.The Spring assist connect to the rear left frame rail to the rock shaft. Hope this helps.
Wayne Shytle (Wshytle) on Friday, June 22, 2012 - 02:50 pm:
Sidney E,
You need the lift bar mounting plate assembly which attaches to your 124's lift handle with two 3/8" bolts. It's basically a small rectangular steel plate with a stud welded to it to which the lift bar attaches. The link http://ccmanuals.info/pdf/NF%203%20PT.pdf will take you to Installation Instructions for a installing the rear lift on a narrow frame 1x6/7 series tractor. For your 124 it's the same except you don't need the horseshoe shaped lift mounting bracket #9 in the back. Hope this helps. If you need a wide frame hitch lift setup for your 1450, post an ad in the "Wanted" classified ad section here on the forum. I sure someone will have one they can help you out. They typically go around $100.
You need the lift bar mounting plate assembly which attaches to your 124's lift handle with two 3/8" bolts. It's basically a small rectangular steel plate with a stud welded to it to which the lift bar attaches. The link http://ccmanuals.info/pdf/NF%203%20PT.pdf will take you to Installation Instructions for a installing the rear lift on a narrow frame 1x6/7 series tractor. For your 124 it's the same except you don't need the horseshoe shaped lift mounting bracket #9 in the back. Hope this helps. If you need a wide frame hitch lift setup for your 1450, post an ad in the "Wanted" classified ad section here on the forum. I sure someone will have one they can help you out. They typically go around $100.
Sidney-
If I were you I'd strive to get the tiller mounted on the 1450 because of the hydraulic lift. The tiller is well over 100 lbs and you'll know it once you start working. The spring assist is nice for the tractor as well as your right arm and I've heard it's a good idea to use it even with a hydraulic lift.
I posted yesterday about the wf lift arm but eventually answered my own question. You mention 124, 127, and the 1450 so you need to distiguish wf or nf when mounting the tiller. They are different in several ways and the parts don't interchange. The tiller will go on any of the tractors you mentioned; it woul;d be best to decide which tractor to use/dedicate and stick with it. My #1 tiller is set up on my 1650 but if I had a gd tractor with a creeper I would switch over.
If I were you I'd strive to get the tiller mounted on the 1450 because of the hydraulic lift. The tiller is well over 100 lbs and you'll know it once you start working. The spring assist is nice for the tractor as well as your right arm and I've heard it's a good idea to use it even with a hydraulic lift.
I posted yesterday about the wf lift arm but eventually answered my own question. You mention 124, 127, and the 1450 so you need to distiguish wf or nf when mounting the tiller. They are different in several ways and the parts don't interchange. The tiller will go on any of the tractors you mentioned; it woul;d be best to decide which tractor to use/dedicate and stick with it. My #1 tiller is set up on my 1650 but if I had a gd tractor with a creeper I would switch over.
Thanks Dennis & Jeremiah
Dennis, the metal dust is the little black pool of crud at the bottom of the case. I just call it dust because I assume it is extremely fine metal powder from normal wear. Occasionally I would see a metal flake or shaving as if someone tried to place it in gear with out using the clutch (grindin gears). Thanks for the advice about the mag. It would not be good if it somehow attached to the gears. Crunch, Crunch! Outside would be best!
Jeremiah, just emailed D. Kirk this morning so I'm sure he will tell me the installation methods. I like the idea of the ability to fine tune the timing. Although as Ron Popeil says it would be nice to "set it and forget it"! If thats how the Slayer works.
Dennis, the metal dust is the little black pool of crud at the bottom of the case. I just call it dust because I assume it is extremely fine metal powder from normal wear. Occasionally I would see a metal flake or shaving as if someone tried to place it in gear with out using the clutch (grindin gears). Thanks for the advice about the mag. It would not be good if it somehow attached to the gears. Crunch, Crunch! Outside would be best!
Jeremiah, just emailed D. Kirk this morning so I'm sure he will tell me the installation methods. I like the idea of the ability to fine tune the timing. Although as Ron Popeil says it would be nice to "set it and forget it"! If thats how the Slayer works.
Next week, I'll be taking my engine cradle to the Welding and Machine Shop for the modification bar to be welded into place. The Right Rear ISO mount hole is wallowed out, due (I think) to having an inferior lower ISO mount installed.
Do I need to have that hole welded and refiled to round, or will this be alright as is? I looked at a picture of another engine cradle, and it seemed as none of those mounting holes were round.
What do y'all think?
You guys have forgotten more about these machines than I will ever know.
I don't want to give it a paint job and call it an overhaul.
Do I need to have that hole welded and refiled to round, or will this be alright as is? I looked at a picture of another engine cradle, and it seemed as none of those mounting holes were round.
What do y'all think?
You guys have forgotten more about these machines than I will ever know.
I don't want to give it a paint job and call it an overhaul.
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Something is in my rear view mirror....
I just finished a ride in Cub Cadet heaven.I mowed my lawn with my 49 year old 70 with a steering knob and did it ever mow.I restored it 2 years ago and decided it was just too good to set around looking good,so I'm going to use it sometimes.It was happy I made this decision because when I finished it was cooling down in the pole barn and I heard it murmer lets do that again.It was really fun and my neighbor had to come over and marvel at what a neat tractor it is.
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