Archive through June 18, 2009

[bnolte]

Richard,
You can always try using the pads and mandrel in an electric drill, or perhaps see if Harbor Freight or the equivalent has an electric die grinder you can use.

 

[mgonitzke]

Kendell-

I'm gonna build a bigger electrolysis tank tomorrow with a 55 gallon drum... Why would less current be better? That doesn't make any sense. More current means a faster chemical reaction and therefore, parts get clean faster.

I'll put up more info on the zinc plating rig after it's in operation.


Scott N.-

I think MORE washing soda is needed to get the current higher, not less. More soda makes the water more conductive, which increases the current. I mixed in as much washing soda as would dissolve, and the 3 amp battery charger will work at 3.5 amps if the electrode is clean.

 

[mtoney]

Cub has updated the replacement mufflers for the 149 style tractors, new ones are like whats on the new ZTR mowers, all welded design, heavier metal construction and a bit larger output pipe. Muffler has a nice deep bark on my 149, the barrel is 3" in dia. Its heavy built and should last a long time. Cheers Mike

 

[lhinds]

Matt; I like to use the 6 volt setting on the battery charger,then add more soda untill i get to about 7 or 8 amps Which decreases the time to clean parts.
Just my 02

 

[rpalmer]

Good morning all. Big rain here today so my "shop" is closed.

Looking forward to reading your posts.

 

[rpalmer]

Here is something I'm proud to own. It was my grandfather's. You old timers might recognize CCC. I've looked for information on this chapter put found nothing really.

 

[jbliler]

any chance that the "new" mufflers are quieter?

 

[smontgomery]

Does anyone know if a flywheel pulley with clutch drive plate from a 12 hp kohler will work on a 10 hp motor Kohler, k241as? Looking at one on ebay, no part number but visually looks the same.

 

[sstanton]

So would that electrolosis method get rust out of a gas tank if done right? I've been following these posts to see how to set it up. I have a variable amp/volt battery charger here and not being used. Could a metal basket also work for bolts and screws and stuff? I know that sure would come in handy for my 104 project and others on down the road. I dont like using the paint stripper all that much so any other methods would be better. Thanks ahead

 

[podenbach]

Scott I have used it to remove the rust from inside a gas tank. You basically insert a positively charged piece of steel into the tank without it touching the tank itself. Then you negatively charge the tank and submerge it into the solution. After it is done cooking you will be left with black oxide inside the tank where the rust was. To remove that I use pea gravel and shake the tank around to loosen and remove it. It is good to immediately coat the inside with a light oil to prevent the rust from forming again or put it back into service asap. And yes you can do hardware from hanging it in a basket or wrap wire around them is easy too.

 

[thoffman]

Does anyone have a good source for a set of new 6 X 12 turf tires?? The Cedar Rapids Tire site has changed and it's pain in the a$$.

 

[jschlipp]

kind of new to restoring cubs the last two years. learning a lot/reading a lot here.
I need to take out my hydro release valves of my restored 169 clean/lube etc. they stick alot like my other cub and are partially stuck down now. Any advice?
The tractor also just stopped yesterday out of nowhere. I put in a new battery just because I jut got one and tested and see I have juice where I need to but no turn over? selenoid? . Possiblyt the switch. any advice there what to check. thanks

 

[mgonitzke]

Porter-

I don't think that's black oxide...it's the carbon that was in the steel that rusted away. Either way, you're right, it needs to be removed.

Scott-

This is how I clean bolts with the electrolysis tank:

 

[aaytay]

I've been watching this talk about electrolysis, but I have a couple of questions...

How do you guys dispose of the water when you're all finished with the process? You're basically left with a toxic-soup, that contains old paint (and lead!), as well as iron (rust) and who knows what else.

As a land-owner who appreciates good well-water, I hesitate to think that you can just dump this stuff outside, or down the drain without endangering your family (or neighbors).

The second (and related) part to this question is, how often do you have to change out this water? Can you just keep reusing the same batch, or does it have to be changed each time?

 

[hdshine]

All,
I'm back now that I have a shop again I've uncrated my K301 with a blown rod and started on its repair.
I am a novice so I will be peppering y’all with stupid questions. I promise that I will try to find the answers first in the archives/FAQ/manuals.

My first question: The crankshaft bearing on the flywheel side came off with the crankshaft. The manual says use a puller. I’m a bit hesitant to put a puller on the outside circumference of the bearing for fear of tearing up the bearing or just pulling off the outer ring leaving the ball bearings and inner ring still frozen to the shaft. Any ideas? Anyone had this problem and managed to get around it.

Thanks & Cheers,
Dave

Some background if you’re interested:
My 126 threw the rod going up a steep slope probably because the oil level was too low. Stupid, I know. The rod was trashed and a small piece of the piston’s skirt was broken off. The cylinder doesn’t look too bad but I haven’t measured yet. The crankshaft journal needs grinding. To an untrained eye the valves look fine and the internal gears, etc. look fine – so far.

The 126 has been exposed to salt laden air for decades before I got it so everything is frozen. Had trouble pulling PTO requiring drilling out set screws. Had to cut off the PTO bearing with a Dremel. It took days off heat/PB/tapping/pulling to get the flywheel off. Everything seems to be harder to do than what I read. DS

 

[whecht]

Hey Allen I Bought my second Cub I now have a 102 and a 109 You have to start somewhere Right I didnt have time last night to get the serial numbers off of it so I dont know what year it is yet I hope to get this done this weekend.

 

[dfrisk]

STEVE M. - If You mean the diecast pulley & cup & steel plate with the three rollpins the clutch disc is driven with, YES, as long as Your not using these parts in a 1000 or 1200 QuietLine gear drive they will interchange. That pulley & cup is common to ALL Kohlers, the clutch drive plate bolts on with four 1/4" capscrews, the Hydro drive coupling uses the same mounting pattern & bolts.

If Your working on a 1000/1200 Q/L gear drive the pulley/cup is still the same but the clutch disc is different.

 

[mgonitzke]

Art-

The water can be used as long as you can stand to use it. The crap settles to the bottom after awhile, and the liquid can be poured off.

As far as disposal, I don't know what everybody else does, but when I'm done with this 100, all the paint that I stripped, along with whatever crap is at the bottom of my electrolysis tank will be dried, sealed in bags, and taken to the local hazmat disposal when I'm finished.

 

[mhomrighausen]

Willis H. Cubgratualtions on getting that 102.

It is a balmy 79* and humid outside and everything looks beautiful (yet very wet). I'm going to try and do some Cub stuff this afternoon and not agitate my ankle/foot too much. The countdown begins until surgery. One week from today. I will admit that I am a little apprehesive about being put totally to sleep. Maybe working on the Cubs again will ease those thoughts.

 

[aschumacher]

Careful Willis, I understand Cub collecting can become addective...