Archive through June 15, 2007

[jpmoore]

Alright, I can't believe I need to ask this, but here goes.

Cub 105, I'm trying to replace the drive belt (mule belt) that goes from the clutch, then down over to the pulley on the mower deck.

I think the last belt was on wrong, but really have no idea. My question--where it wraps up around the clutch pulley, should the wide side of the belt ride in the pulley?...or do I twist the belt a time or 2 between the pulleys so that when it does wrap around the clutch pulley, the narrow side of the belt rides in the pulley (much like any and every belt I've seen on a car/truck. Guess I've never seen a belt/pulley system that needs to go from a horizontal pulley to a vertical pulley with 1 belt. Yeah, I never said I knew much about these tractors, so feel free to give me some crap, laugh, flame

, whatever it takes.

I've had this thing on both ways, and both ways it seems wrong to me. Also, anyone got any tips on how tight to adjust it?

 

[glippert]

Jarrod - I don't have a 105, but I'm certain the narrow side of the belt always goes into the v of the pulley. Should just be a half twist between each pulley.

 

[tlanglitz]

I'm stumped. Last week a limb got under my 129's mower deck and stopped the blades. When that happened the mower revved up, like when climbing a hill ... I figured because of the sudden load. I disengaged the mower deck instantly and shut the key off. That's the last time I've heard the mower run.

I thought I saw a weak orange spark, so I replaced the coil. I had a sunk float a couple of months ago, which I repaired at the time.. but decided to replace while I was doing the coil. I also bought points, but when I pulled the cover the existing ones looked brand new and were gapped perfectly, so I left those alone. In the mean time the two year old battery went dead, so I replaced that. I was jumping the thing at first (after this problem began), because of the low battery. While I was doing that, I think the voltage regulator hung up because the mower then started to try to crank even after I pulled the key out. I checked most of the wires for shorts and they were ok. Ignition solenoid was fine... I pulled the regulator .. it looked ok..reinstalled it and that problem went away. In the mean time, my float replace job left the carb seeping.. which it never did before. I think the carb is working ok though, except for that annoying seeping. I tried a new plug. After only cranking the motor.. never really firing ... the plug is heavily carbon fouled. I thought... aha... blown head gasket. I've had that one before with this mower.... pulled the head.. yep...it had been leaking.... put in the new head gasket.. torqued everything right ... still won't start. I can't find my compression tester, but I don't think compression is the problem now. The plug wire looks fine .. its only a couple of years old. When cranking, the motor sounds normal, it just doesn't quite fire. I'm pretty sure its getting gas because when I choke it and give it some throttle while cranking, the cranking speeds up ... like its trying to fire and that is helping the motor turn. Before I shut it off last week, it was running great. I'm sure the motor is not broken. I've rebuilt this one twice already so I know the sounds too well <G>. I'm missing something obvious. Help!
Thanks
Tom

 

[digger]

Jarrod,
Maybe this will help a little.

 

[jthompson]

Kraig,

Thanks for the reply about the hitch. However, I am a little confused though. What is the difference b/t a sleeve hitch and the sleeve hitch adapter? I'm not sure I understand what good a sleeve hitch is if you have to have a sleeve hitch adapter. Does anyone have photos of each?

 

[dsauve]

Jim just a good guess bu the sleeve hitch adaptor goes on the 3 point hitch so the tractor can go both ways.

 

[digger]

Jim T.
CLICK HERE

 

[jpmoore]

Thank you kindly Charlie! How about the tension? Any certain measurement I'm going for?

 

[digger]

Guess I should have left the pic big huh.

Tight enough so the belt doesn't slip, I never made any masurements, just tightened it up till it felt right.

 

[jthompson]

Thanks again for the replies. I'm clear on it now. I've been looking at the sleeve hitch implements and was wondering if they will really work. I ask that question thinking mostly of a disk and grader blade. I have recently used my dad's tractor (JD 2040) and his disk and blade. Even on that tractor which is a 38hp (I think) diesel, if you bury the disk deep or "grab" too much with the blade it will spin the tires. I'm thinking if THIS tractor spins then will a disk or blade for a sleeve hitch on a Cub do enough work to really justify fooling with it? I have never used my cub for anything other than mowing.

 

[jpmoore]

Again, thanks Charlie. By the way, I just found this link in a previous post of yours->Chris Westfall of http://www.cubclassics.com, Yep, I'll be sending some business his way. It's turning into a good night after all.

.

 

[digger]

Jim T.
Traction is the key and wheel weights are the solution!
That's all I'm gonna say about thaaat.

Jarrod,
Did ya miss the sponsor buttons shown at the top of all our pages?

 

[digger]

Course the Super Lugs didn't give me the traction I was really lookin for, so I opted for Tru Powers.

 

[mgonitzke]

Jim T.-

Yes, of course it will work. Attachments for these tractors are sized appropriately so that they will work. Add a set of tire chains and some wheel weights and you'll be surprised what you can do.

 

[dsauve]

Jim, Digger is right weight weight and more weight but get it all in the right place. Turf tires and chains won't do a whole lot of good you probably will need a good set of ag tires to boot.

 

[dharmon]

I may have missed the response. I have a 125 that I bought as a second to my 124 several years ago. The lever to release it so that you can push it around was not there when I bought it. At the time I was un-aware of it missing or that it was ever there. The tractor moves very easy, mater of fact too easy. When on a slight incline the park brake has to bee used to keep it from free wheeling. I realize it should have the lever however should it be able to move at all without it. I have another brand hydrostat mower

that will not move no matter how hard you push it without releasing the drive. Is it possible some one has modified my 125? I checked the FAQ and found only information on adjustments. Thanks in advance.

 

[digger]

Donnie H.
After the tractor has been shut off for a while, yes you can push it around as it leaks off pressure on the valves. The flapper just makes sure that the pressure on both valves is released at the same time.
Those flappers are cheap and our sponsors have them ready to ship to your door.

 

[jthompson]

"Digger"

Good grief those are some huge tires!! What size are they and what tractor are they on?

Thanks again guys. I'm really looking forward to playing.....uh working with my tractors. Just need to find a 3pt. hitch and then find a sleeve hitch to add to it. Is this going to be hard?

 

[digger]

26x12x12's on the old standby 1450.
Don't let that single 54 pound wheel weight fool ya, there's a 90 pound starter weight underneath it, grin!

 

[digger]

Tom L.
I'll betcha my head gasket was leakin just a little more than yours was!