• This community needs YOUR help today. With the ever increasing fees of everything (server, software, domain, e-mail) , we need help. We need more Supporting Members, today. Please invest back into this community to help spread our love and knowledge of IH Cub Cadets. You get a lot of great new account perks including access to private forums. If you sign up for annual, I will ship a few IH Cub Cadet Forum decals too in addition to all the account perks you get. You can see what it looks like below.

    Sign up here: https://www.ihcubcadet.com/account/upgrades

Archive through June 15, 2007

IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum

Help Support IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

kmcconaughey

Keeper of the Photos
Staff member
Administrator
Moderator
Joined
Aug 4, 2006
Messages
18,333
Location
Wisconsin
displayname
Kraig McConaughey
Mike, here's the photo. (BTW, when did you move from Alamogordo, NM to New Bedford, MA?
dunno.gif
happy.gif
)

59297.jpg
dunno.gif
 
Lee, just a heads up, your post didn't go away, the page just "went to archive". If you click on the "Archive through June 13, 2007" up above on this page you'll see your post and my response.
happy.gif
 
Richard Christensen; Thanks for your reply on the ISO mounts. I actually found the information on another site. I will give it a try this weekend. Thanks again.
 
I'm wanting to get some implements to use on my 1450 and I'm debating a sleeve hitch or Cat. 0. Please tell me if I'm seeing this correctly, and if not, where am I going wrong?

- Sleeve hitch implements are lighter duty and would be less load on the 1450, but would do less work. Would the implements requiring a Cat 0 be too much for the 1450 to either lift or pull? Wouldn't make much sense to get a Cat 0 setup and every time you tried to lift the implement the front wheels came up off the ground or if you tried to pull a disc, blade, etc. the tractor just spun its wheels.

- The Brinly-Hardy 3 pt. disc weighs 182lbs. If I were to get a Cat 0 setup would the hydraulics on the 1450 lift this much weight?

- Is anyone here running a Cat 0 on a tractor comparable to a 1450? If so what are you pulling?

- You could always get a Cat 0 and use a sleeve hitch adapter I guess.
 
Randy - You'll hate that white primer. I used it several years ago on my Payloader after having it blasted.

Gee thanks alot Mike and Kraig ...
crash.gif
 
Pat K. -

Do tell. There's another site??
 
Jim, the only rear hitch that was available for the 1450 is the sleeve type hitch, which actually requires an adapter, a "Brinly Sleeve Hitch Adapter". The Cub Cadet rear hitch was called a 3 point hitch by <FONT COLOR="ff0000">I</FONT><FONT COLOR="000000">H</FONT> but it isn't actually a standard 3 point hitch. Richard Christensen made a custom CAT-0 hitch that would bolt right up to a Cub Cadet 1450 but they are not for sale, umm, dare I say yet....
dunno.gif


59299.jpg


Richard???????
 
Hey all, I havent been on in a while cause my 124 has been running great, until...
Last night I think my clutch blew. I was mowing down a slope and it just broke loose. it was in gear but not getting any power to the wheels. and rolling strictly on gravity. no smell or smoke just all the sudden. the rod between my feet was spining and would not slow down when I engage the clutch. it would sit still in gear What can I do to fix? will a clutch kit fix this? where can I get one. help! I am cub illiterate.
 
Does it move in any gear? it sit still no matter what gear it is in?

if so. sound like you sheared the roll pin that holds the driveshaft to the rearend.

Possible you could have broke the input gear.
 
Erik P.-

Sounds like it is time to build a new clutch for your tractor. Your local Cub Cadet dealer will be able to get all of the parts, if you don't have a dealer nearby you can get them from a sponsor. I have done two of these now, they both cost about $120. If you aren't able to make your own driveshaft (very easy with a drill press) then it will cost a bit more. You'll also need a service manual to help you with this, which can be downloaded free from here: (http://manuals.mtdproducts.com/mtd/public/list.jsp) or purchased from a sponsor.

Usually when rebuilding a clutch, you'll need to replace everything except the pressure plates (true them up on a lathe) and 3-pin driver, and possibly spacers if your model of tractor has them.
 
Hello-starter generator packed it in again today,
only got 1 year. local man has found me a new arm. and end replacement to run bearings on the cub. i could post the # if wanted takes skf 2023
bearind about $3.replace bushing for now. Can`t believe that Charlie has posted this today lol
just what you need is here.Got a parcel today from a good man . now just have to fix my pto. wish i had a picture of a 129 ,but mine is different that the norm. thanks later don
ihrotate.gif
 
Just checking in for a little bit. Gotta work tomorrow morning and then in the afternoon check on three Cubs. A 1650, 1250 (original owner's son is thinking of giving me first and only chance if he doesn't keep it) and a 482. Should be a fun afternoon.

About the "free" Cub Cadet being given to a farmer that bought a full size tractor story. No matter if it was a Deere, Massey Ferguson, IH or whatever flavor the dealer never had a promotion of "Buy a Full size tractor and get a free lawn/garden tractor". I remember quite a few of those stories from both the farmers and the dealers telling of them. Every story always turned up the same. Farmer's VERSION... " I told the dealer I'd take him up on the (Whatever Model) if he threw in a free Cub Cadet, JD, etc. Dealer hemmed and hawed and finally said, "Oh, what the h*** pick one out and take it before I change my mind." Dealer's VERSION... "I gave him a real good deal on a (model). He's bought a lot of equipment from me in the past few years so let's just say that he got a (lawn/garden) tractor for a reaaalllly good price and let it go at that." I remember one neighbor had in the last two years purchased a new MF1150 fully loaded and a plow and disc to go with it. In the early fall he went in to deal on a new Massey combine. After a lot of wheeling/dealing the neighbor was ready to sign the papers. Before he signed he kept saying that he needed two more gravity wagons to go with the bigger combine. Dealer kept saying that he would sell two new wagons. Farmer kept saying that he didn't want to buy however he would sure appreciate a couple of free ones. Finally the dealer said something to the order of, "Sign the *%$*(($@*** papers and pick out two wagons and get out of here before I change my mind." Neighbor told me he quickly signed the papers wrote out the check and took two new gravity wagons home with him. The dealer told me to mind my own business when I asked him about the deal. (Seems he was a little grumpy about that deal.)
 
Marlin,
I know of a old IH dealership that would give away used equipment, probly why he only stayed in business fo 30 years befor retireing.
I rember the time my father went to pay for the rental of a 3 16" bottom plow and the dealer kept saying to my father, " what plow" it took a couple of times befor it sunk in as my father was trying to be honest and fair about the deal, befor he got the meaning of "what plow"
 
Our local MF Dealer (works two ways) had to be hounded to get a free hat ! I wore my MF hat with pride ;)
 
Good evening,
I have a question for the electrical experts out there! I was mowing with my 104 and all was well. Shut it off to do some trimming, went back a few minutes later and it wouldn't start. Turned over very slowly like a weak battery. Checked the volts on the battery, did not remove it from the tractor and the meter read 11.6 volts. Took the battery out and hooked it up to the charger. About a half hour later, I checked on it and the negative lead from the charger was extremley hot and the insulation was melting. Long explanation but does that mean my battery is bad? I did check the volts on the battery the next day and they were just over 12. Put in the tractor and it started right up.
 
Kevin - Can you pop the tops off the battery cells. It almost sounds like one or more of the cells may be low & need some distilled water added. I think that can cause a heavy drain on the charger, causing hot cable. You should be able to use a voltmeter to check between cells 1 & 2, then 2&3, etc, and get the same voltage on each - I think about 2.3v per cell fully charged. Please be very careful with the acid in the battery - use protective gloves and goggles.

I may be way off, and I'm certainly not an expert on any area, electrical or otherwise, but it sounds like the problem I had a while back.

(Or maybe it's the drugs talking - I'm recovering from back surgery on Wed pm. Gotta love modern medicine & pharmaceuticals).
 
Back
Top