Archive through June 14, 2012

[kmcconaughey]

Here's the link to the popcorn tin concrete weights.

Tim Kiste - Popcorn tin weights

 

[dschwandt]

Thanks Kraig!!! Your pictures are a heck of a lot better than mine anyway!!!

Well maybe, except for this one!!!....

Crap!, maybe I should just go back to bed.....

 

[kfreeman]

David,

Did you take that picture with your miniature spy camera?

 

[bjamison]

David S - Thanks for the tip on the front axle!

 

[rchristensen]

When I rebuilt my 782 with a M-18 engine back in 2003 I built a bracket to mount the oil filter on top of the engine and it has worked well for me.

I built the mounting bracket out of two 1/4 inch flat iron pieces welded together at a small angle. I tapped two holes to mount the oil filter housing to the bracket with either 5/16 or 3/8 bolts. (can't remember) and drilled one hole in the bracket to mount the bracket to an existing bolt on the top of the engine.

The filter and bracket fits inside of the panels out of the way and no modifications to the panels or firewall were required.

To drain the filter you just loosen the two bolts on the filter housing and slide it out. (the filter housing bracket holes are slotted) You can remove the filter while holding the bracket over a drain pan. You can refill the filter, screw it on the housing and place it back on the mounting bracket on the engine without getting any oil on the engine.

This setup has worked well for me since 23003

 

[dfrisk]

With all this talk about oil filters for the KT17 Kohler's, what does everybody pay for those filters?

I used to spend $20 or just a bit more for the ONAN filters for my 982. Last filter I got was from another company that makes L&G equipment.... some of it just 30 miles north-east of me.... Cost $7.48 including tax.

For comparison, the filters I use on my Powerstroke engine in my pickup are over TWICE as big as the Onan filter and I can get them, Motorcraft FL-1995 at Farm & Fleet for $9.99.

 

[jchamberlin]

Richard Christensen: I believe the bolt on the engine extends up from one side of the exhaust elbow and is used to secure the shroud.

I like your setup, and your explanation of the oil change is helpful. A lot of people complain about how messy the remote filter change can be.

Matt Gonitzke: In Michael Gallinaro's defense, I think he knew what he was talking about, he just didn't express HIMself clearly. I'm sure he has seen more than one remote oil filter setup on an MTD. But I appreciate your clearing the matter up and for sharing a picture of your setup. I imagine the oil could be changed as easily with your arrangement as with Richard's.

Kraig: Thanks for posting the info on both wheel weight designs, each has its advantages. I wonder if a popcorn tin could be rigged up and filled with spare hardware --what a racket that would make, and what great fun!

David Schwandt: I think you got bit by the archive bug, he likes to eat the pictures off the last post on the page; but he always leaves the text --strange appetite.

Edit: Dennis Frisk: I bought a short, yellow filter at my nearest Kohler dealer (a tractor service store) for $13 and change; but I'm sure I can get the same filter at Tractor Supply and probably even Lowe's, but I'm not sure if they would be much cheaper. You're getting a very good price, it seems to me.

 

[kmcconaughey]

Richard, nice, elegant design/solution.

Jeremiah, I just searched the archives and posted a link, much easier than figuring out how to do it in the first place.

 

[dschwandt]

Jeremiah: Not only would it make a lot of racket, but put shot beads in it instead, then add your rusty small parts and wind up w/a nice mottled finish on 'em!!!

Dave S

 

[sblunier]

Oil Filter:

The MTD approved location for the filter is on the rear of the firewall, right side, under the fuel tank. This is how the 1806/1810/1811/1812 (same as 782) tractors had the filter mounted. 782 does require the firewall be notched like an 1811...easy.

Oil change is the same regardless of how the filter is mounted.....loosen bolts, slide filter base away using slotted holes and drain over pan.

It is "incorrect" to imply that the filter shouldn't/can't be mounted behind the fire wall, because that's exactly how MTD designed it to be mounted on the 82 series and 18xx platform. That said, the alternate mounting options do have their advantages.

NOT using the extension kit and using only the filter base is a royal PITA for changing oil and makes a huge mess.....I have had machines with only the base...not fun and messy.

 

[kfreeman]

Dennis,

According to Kohler the oil filter for a KT-17 Series II is a Kohler #52 050 02. I believe that this is the filter that mounts directly on the block.

According to NAPA, the cross reference is #1348, which they have several options (Gold, Silver, etc.) NAPA Gold 1348 at my local store is $6.49, according to their website. CC Specialties (above) has the Kohler 52 050 02 for $9.50.

But, I assume, that a remote filter adapter could be set up for a different model of oil filter.

The NAPA 1348 has a bypass relief valve and a anti-drainback check valve.

 

[jdiederichs]

Yes, that filter # remains the same for engine mount or remote mount applications.

Mr. Plow, Good reply!

 

[sblunier]

2072 oil filter (factory install)

 

[mhomrighausen]

Kraig M. THANK YOU for finding those homemade weight posts.

 

[trutherford]

What is the actual belt size in inches for a haban sickle bar the belt for the pto.
And can I have some pictures of the pulley on the front.
Also how close is the belt to the frame when it's all hooked up. I really need this for mowing.

 

[cjrolke]

guys

on a cub 72 with the 7 hp motor where does the choke bracket get mounted to on the motor?

thanks

 

[jchamberlin]

All: I'm sorry if I've been the source of disinformation on the remote filter location; I was simply passing on what others had related to me.

I am so grateful for this site, it proves that a forum beats a blog for solid information which correlates to what Winston Churchill is reported to have said about the reputed "efficiency" of a dictatorship, "Democracy is not a perfect form of government, but it is the best one we've found to date" (or something to that effect). A despot, however "benevolent" (Alexander Hamilton) is prone to a certain form of error which can only be corrected by "the masses."

Charlie, I don't mean to get political, I just think there is something very American about this site --heck, we even give the Canadian's a voice (I couldn't resist, Don).

 

[wshytle]

I have been going over my nephews 128 and found something interesting. This part of the undercarriage broke completely and upon inspection found very little "meat" on one side. I hope you can see what I'm talking about in the pics. Anyway, has this hole been drilled in the wrong position? It is very close to the edge and it looks like it needs to be moved towards the center. It's the hole for the pickle fork rockshaft.

I think I'd be wasting time just welding it back. Shouldn't I fill and file and move it some? I feel it may help the lift operate a bit smoother if there's no warp to deal with. I haven't been able to detect any. I can't figure out what caused the small gouges either but I'll have to check that out after it is installed.

Any input would be appreciated.

 

[mgonitzke]

Wayne-

I agree, that hole looks like it wound up in the wrong place at the factory. I'd move it up when you weld it back together so that it is centered.

 

[pfitzwater]

speaking of the undercarriage. on the piece that supports the deck and is suspended from that piece Wayne is talking about. Mine has a "fork" on right side, two pieces of steal that what I assume slide and sit on the bar that attaches the brake arm connecting to the clutch? It is a little hard to explain, Its dark out now and I cant take a picture. I'll see if I can find one online.

is that suppose to be there and am I correct in where it goes?

**edited for proper piece description