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IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum

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DAVE R. - Now here's one for you! Hot Rod Magazine years ago built up a small block Chevy (I know, That's a surprise!) and one of the guys left a shop rag sitting in the lifter valley and someone dropped the intake manifold on it and buttoned everything up. It ran maybe a minute on the dyno and it went "BOOM"
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They even showed a picture of the blown engine with the shop rag sucked into an intake port of the head. But they were at a TOTAL loss as to how it ended up there. Sucked thru a valve guide with an intake valve already in the guide maybe? It's a complete mystery to me?!?!

ANYHOW, maybe the same thing happened to Allen's spring retainer keepers.
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Dennis - Not belivin' it !
Only holes exiting the intake valley is the oil return holes to the pan.
 
Art - When I want to hear from you I'll post a pic of a SNAKE on here.
 
I am having a heck of a time getting the screws out of the arms that hold the fender where the footwear are. Otherwise everything else is apart, also is there any certain way I can take the engine out, so I'm not messing anything up?
 
KEN - Welsome back! Well, I wished I'd kept my 20-25 yr collection of HRM's so I could tell you what issue it was in. If I had to guess, I'd say early 1980's.
 
Brandon, I've got a thing that takes different bits you hit with a hammer, I can't for the life of me remember the name of right now. That job is what it got bought for but it's handy to have around. Anybody, little help.
 
All right, after all this puzzling about the valve keepers I went back and read Marks origional post:
By Mark J. Schairer (Mschairer) on Sunday, June 12, 2011 - 07:22 pm:

Hi: Rain let up enough today to remove breather cover off Ol' CCO 4740. I found a quite broken up part that appears to be what would hold the intake valve and spring in place. Is this a single part, and if so, can it be replaced? Additionally, what type of a spring compressor do I need to replace the Valve / Spring retainer. Is there a locking collar to push into the groove on the valve to hold into place? Any guidance / Part Number references would be appreciated. Oh yeah, got the broken bolt out of the block with a Easy (Hard) out. Regards,

Mark

So its the INTAKE valve, and he has the part in his hand! Problem solved!!..
 
Sweet loader charlie!


Ok, I am selling my 149 I just got to buy a 1872 with 50" deck I found. What should I look at on this beast before I buy it? Problems, weak spots, defects wear parts or what ever? I mean Im probably going to get it anyways, lol. This thing is a sweet monster! I checked it out once before but he wasnt selling it then. Im pretty pumped about it. Ill put up some pict. when I get it.
 
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Finally got my walls insulated and OSB finished up in the Cub Cadet shop tonight. Still have to blow in insulation in the attic and figure what type of heat I will use.Sure can tell wern't NO PRO did the work. Oh well, only have to please myself. Still want to get small mig welder and 60 gallon air compressor.Cubs now have a nice place.
 
I am restoring my first cub which is a 125. when i got it, i got it from a guy who put it together with what he had around in his collection. he put a 44" wide frame deck on it (not a 38" 42" or 42"), a k241 10 hp kohler (not a k301 12hp), and painted over all the decals without masking anything off as you can imagine, the overspray really made this look awesome.

Problem 1: I got the right motor, and had it bored .020 over. got it all back together and hear a knocking sound. the machinist who did the bore said he thinks its the crank. he said the crankshaft journal was out of round by about a thousandth and a half. he thought id be ok to put it back together so i did. i tore it back apart and hes in the process of grinding the crank now. i ran the motor for about a half hour total. the problem i found when i took the motor apart was the oil on top of the piston and on top of the block when i took the head off. i put new rings in and the valves seat well? didnt see any smoke coming out of the exhaust though. also noticed a small oil leak out of the head gasket. all new gaskets and i torqued the head to the manual specs and in sequence. any ideas here?

problem 2: tractor wants to creep when i try to start it. it also makes a grinding noise, so i have to engage the lever to put the rear end into neutral and after i get it started, then i can disengage the neutral lever. i tried adjusting it by the book, i have the arrow pointing right over the stud thats in the cam bracket, nut have no luck. any ideas?

Problem 3: I want to get this tractor set up to blow and push snow for this winter. I traded the 44" deck that was on this tractor when i got it for a cw36 snow blower. at the time i didnt know it was a cw36. the guy said it would work. the model number was hard to see. i did some research and found out it was a cw36. also found out it fits the 102, 122, 123, 70, 100, and 71. i need the gearbox, lift , and chute rods for it. is there any way of making this work, or should i sell it and get a qa blower? I also put ag tires on the tractor. will i still need tire chains, or should i keep the turf tires and use them with tire chains instead. id like to have a weight rack made for the back of it regardless of what tire setup i use.

thanks for the help.
 
Kyle R.-

There may have been oil on the piston because the rings are not seated yet. Were the rings installed correctly? Excessive cam endplay can cause knocking too...was that kept at the tight end of the range? Did you flatten the head before reinstalling it? If not, that's why the gasket blew again.

If you get ice, you still need tire chains, regardless of the kind of tire you have.
 
Matt Gonitzke (Mgonitzke),
the rings were installed by how the book says. 120 degrees apart. also the cam endplay was within the specified tolerances. i didnt flatten the head, it seemed pretty flat, but i will double check. thank you.
 
PSA

<font color="0000ff">The White House signed off on a new gasoline pump label that would warn consumers when they are about to fill their vehicles with a fuel blended with a higher rate of ethanol.

The new label means that so-called E15 gas could be available nationwide by the end of September, Reuters reported.

The EPA still has to officially register E15 before it can be sold.</font>


Watch what you buy in the future for your outdoor equipment !!
I use LUCAS ETHANOL additive in my outboard and Cub.
 
KYLE - The rings should have come packaged in a little paper pouch that was marked, TOP, Middle, & Bottom along with pictures of how the rings should be installed. There's chamfers on the inside corners that have to be installed as shown.

The spacing of the ring gaps is "important but not critical" the rings actually spin around in the grooves as the engine runs, so they can end up in ANY position as the engine runs.

ALSO, I think MATT G did a write-up in the FAQ's about dressing up heads for flatness. When I rebuild engines I chase the threads for the head bolts/studs with a new tap, then chamfer the holes slightly so there's no raised metal, then set the head without a gasket on the top of the block and slide my thinnest feeler gauge between the head & block, most feeler gauges have a .001" thk blade which works fine. You want that gauge to STICK everywhere between the block & head.

OH-Ohhhh Ken started up the Great Gas debate again!
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Dennis Frisk

it would be nice if Charlie would stock copper head gaskets for the Cubs. I installed one one my 850 Norton and the correct install was to heat the copper hot and then install. The heat would soften the gasket and the best part was it could be used a few more times also.

KenTuckyken

Some glad we don`t have the **** fuel you guys have to deal with lol. We pay $1.26 a liter as of today , Getting costly to do much traveling. later Don T
 
Don, been a while but is it 3.785 liters per gal? If it is, thats 4.76 gal. Whats the rate for exchange now?
 

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