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Archive through June 11, 2007

IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum

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Brian, if that were my Cub I think I would trim those wheel weight bolts. If you leave them like that they'll eventually get you in the shin and/or ankle. OUCH! In the third photo down in the second set you posted, it looks like your wife is having waaaaay too much fun. Better not let her mow again or that will be HER Cub.....
 
I recentently posted this in the wrong area but I think I'm squared away now.
I have had 2 Kohler coils fail recently,on the Quiet Line c/cs.One in 2hrs and another 4hrs.
I did receive an E-Mail telling me to buy a different coil and I will sure try it.
In the past 15 years I have replaced about 15 coils on 1450s and 1650s.
Anyone else have this problem?
Dan
 
DANIEL - I fried TWO in about an hour once...I just chocked it up to old used coils. One coil even melted the ignition points! I put a brand new Kohler coil on one of My other Cub Cadets several years before that and when I installed That coil on this engine it's still running fine 2-3 yrs later. Electrical things have finite lives. Some are longer than others however.

It pays to spend a few $$$$ more for a coil from the forum sponsors. These old Cubbies do have electrical requirements that are "Special"
 
Dan C.
And you might want to see if your charging system is working correctly. I believe there should be 14.5 volts maximum at WOT.
JH
 
Hey guys,
I have been messing around with garden tractors for some time now. I got my first Cub this past weekend. It's a project, but couldn't pass it up. It is a 125 Hydro. I would like to do it up right. But I am missing some parts. Does anyone know where I can find pictures of this model tractor? Also, any idea where I can find parts? I know I am missing the piece between the drive shaft and fly wheel and the hydro lever.
 
Thomas, the 125 is my favorite Cub Cadet! I have 2 of them also have a 105 which is just a 10hp version of the same tractor chassis. How many photos would you like? I have, ummm, a few.
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Here's a couple for starters.

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Kraig,
Thank you for the photo's. I now relize how much work I have a head of me. Those are perfect. I needed to see what paint goes where. What a good looking tractor!
 
What's the trick to removing 82 series hydraulic lift rockshafts? I've got this one that, even when heated to a dull glow, still won't budge.
 
Thomas, best way to find those parts you need is to post an add in the Forum's Classifieds "Wanted To Buy" section. I have some parts tractors but I don't have any spares of the parts you mentioned. BTW,
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WELCOME to the Cub Cadet Forum!
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MATT - What's stuck or siezed? Did You try PB Blaster? Kroil? I've even heard candle wax is good.
 
Dennis F.-

The 2 halves of the shaft are stuck together. PB blaster hasn't worked. This is the bad thing about a rod inside of a tube, there's so much surface area to rust.
 
Matt I had one that was stuck real bad also. After I got the pins out I had to start banging the collar from side to side to get it to twist on the shaft while spraying penetrating oil on it everytime it moved a little. It took allot of patience and alot of banging. Eventually I got it out and had to re-straighten the parts that I bent in the process.
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Working on adding power steering to a cub project, and now that everything is hooked up, it steers as hard as it did before power steering. I have done everything I can to bleed the piston, but was wondering if you guys had any other ideas what may be causing the problem.

PS is off a 1864 that caught on fire, but all the PS parts appeared to be okay. Also, the lift cylinder won't actuate, and it is getting fluid to the cylinder.

Any help is appreciated.
 
i have a 682 and am having trouble with the driveline. i put new spacers under the motor and it seems to not be in line. the rag joints are new (2 on each end), and according to the parts book there is to be one self aligning bushing on the driveshaft at the transmission end. the problem i have is a vibration that seems to wear the rear bushing out rapidly. i don't know if theres a trick to the motor spacers or if there's supposed to be a self aligning bushing on the motor end. Thanks!
 
Paul - Yep I should have seperated the TRACTOR PTO out of the "slow" catagory.

William - I hope ya'll weren't skinny dippin at da time
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Matt - Cut it off and buy another one.

D. - Check to make sure your lines are hooked up correctly first off.

John - Check for bent shaft.
 
D Ryan
The first thing I would suspect would be the powersteering sector, the rubber seals could have bee damaged in the fire.
How it the oil level, low or full?
 
Ryan

Make 100% sure your connections are correct. If you have mis-plumbed any of the hoses you could be bypassing the whole PS/lift circuit (parallel circuit on an open center system) and not be delivering any oil to the "load". The PS valve should have a priority port (5 ports) and how the lift cylinder is piped to the priority circuit can be critical.

Can you ever hear the hydro "dead head" and pull the engine down???

Try placing a 0-1000# gauge in the test port on the hydro and see if you are making any pressure on the lift circuit (600-700# under dead head load), or if it is just bypassing on the charge pump relief at normal circulating pressure (150-200#). This will tell you the condition of the hydro, and will help diagnose the plumbing (bypassed or dead headed).
 
Matt,
Going along with what Dennis mentioned, an old farm trick we used plain parrafin, (canning wax). Long before the days of PB Blaster,etc. wax was always in the machine shed. Heat the problem area enough to draw the wax into the joint. Let the wax wick all the way through the contacted surface area. Let cool completely and use your choice of persuader. I have not tried it on a rockshaft but just passing along a suggestion.
 
That wax werks great for makin those dang drawers in an old toolbox easy to open again... (great on wood)
 

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