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Archive through June 11, 2007

IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum

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dfrisk

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Nov 12, 2001
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Dennis Frisk
JOHN - As long as You don't mind scratches on Your blacktop or concrete, chains on turf tires are your best bet for pushing ANY snow in winter. Ag lug tires still spin easily on snowy hard surfaces. BT-DT. EVERY tractor at home except the 982 has chains available.
 
Chris Busch,

If you will be leaving that ballast resistor in place when the cold weather arrives, you may want to consider using a relay or a different starter solenoid to bypass the resistor when cranking the engine. That way you put 12v (or at least full battery voltage) directly on the coil when starting - to give you a hotter spark. Almost every car that had a ballast resistor coil had a contact on the solenoid to bypass the resistor when cranking the engine with the starter.

When running, the bypass drops out and the resistor is left in the circuit so you don't burn the coil or points. I'll draw you a schematic if you need it.
 
I need to get a lower bracket for the 3 point hitch ("lower hitch link" in Parts Lookup) on my 782, and have a question befrore going shopping: At Plow Day 13 I noticed several of the tractors had "double" bracket, with 2 ears on each side, so the sleeve hitch mounts between them. Is this an available option, or were the ones I saw customized for added strength/stability?
 
Lip, you can get them that way, but the single ear was the common thing, I have the double on my 149. All it really does is it adds strength to the bracket so you don't bend it when you hit a rock with your plow.(see pic below)
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Now, the rear PTO gearboxes, can they power 540 RPM mplemnts, or are they only good for tillers, mowers etc???
 
Glenn"
The double bracket holds items like the tiller or sleeve hitch in a more stable position. The pins are solidly mounted and don't wollow out the mount holes. I would love to find some of these. Had one set on a 102 years back and sold it but forgot to take them off.
 
John I run chains and turf tires on my ql on hard surfaces the chains do leave quite a few scratches. They don't look bad on concrette but on blacktop they really stand out. The proper amount of counter weight is important here. A QA42-a snow blower weighs quite a bit and really makes the tractor light in the rear (I can pick up the rear with one hand when the blower is up). I hang 150 pounds of chains off the rear.
 
Frank, Madson's has both the narrow and wide brackets, you can bolt them together and get the desired effect.

Also Rudy Oblak is making new ones like in the picture below.
 
John,

Unless you are using a land plow, loader, disc or something in loose ground often, ag's are not really neccissary. For most lawn chores turf is best, most folks like the look of the other or like to plow and disc with there cubs so go with the ag style tire. There is no reason you can't do everything you see on this site with just a good set of two link tire chains and for most snow removal you want turfs and chains any ways.
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jmho.
 
Roland B. nice wiring diagrams, I'm starting to make my wiring harness for the Original restoration project any wiring diagrams or specs relative to a Original wiring harness would be greatly appreciated.
 
Thanks Roland!!!! My V/R is bad picking one up Monday. Now to get the carb adjusted, when I rebuilt the little 10 hp possibly hooked up (adjusted) the govenor wrong. Or the fast speed screw got turned. I do not know but it will come.
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Now for tires I have always liked my turf tires for most work. But, for removing snow, which I have asphalt and stone, I put my AG tires on with chains and weight it has always done a good job for me. Reading all this pretty sure the main idea is using weight.

Kinda interested to see how my R4 tires on my 7264 work I love them for yard and woods work so far. Sorry just thinking out loud!

Pops
 
Glen - The Cub Cadet (and Cub Tractors) PTO's turn backwards to regular PTO driven implements and they turn slower.
 
You didn't hear me say that Charlie.
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<font color="ff0000">Your right, I didn't! We don't deal with crooks that don't pay their bills!!!!!!!!</font>
 
First of all a thanks to all those (especially Kraig) who answered my questions last fall. My 149 is up and running and cutting grass.

Now for some more questions. I need some advice on adjusting the carb which was completely dismantled and cleaned last fall. The engine runs smooth, but for lack of a better way to describe it seems to be running too slow, or lacking power. It also seems to get hot very quickly.

It runs best when choked a little bit. I also get a single backfire when I turn it off. Do those symptoms point in any direction in regards to adjusting the carb?
 
Glen, KENtuckyKen
The rear PTO on a Cub Cadet is slower - 514 RPM at 3600 engine RPM, but on a Farmall or International Cub it is faster, it turns at engine speed - about 1800 max RPM for most of them, little faster on the late models.
 
And now a bit of an introduction since I've been asking questions but never really introduced myself or my cub.

I live a bit west of Ottawa, Canada. I see the odd cub around, but they are pretty rare. Mine started off in MA and somehow made it's way to a friend of my inlaws, who paid my father to fix it up. The friend drove it home, where he proceeded to let it roll backwards off his pickup truck going up the hill to his house. That was about 12 years ago. He pushed it off to the side of his house and never used it. It has significant cosmetic damage.

It was given to me when my wife and I bought land to build on about 10 years ago. I changed the fluids, got it running, and then got busy building and house and having and family, and it was left sitting outside until last fall. Last fall I got it running and rebuilt the mower. This year it's back working and cutting grass. I still have to rebuild the snowblower (this fall), and the tiller that came with it.

It's not worth fixing a lot of the cosmetic damage, so it will never win any "best of shows", but hopefully by next summer it will run like new.

I'm sure I'll be here periodically with questions.
 
James S.-

I think your tractor is running too lean. Turn your main needle out (CCW) with the tractor running at full throttle until you get a rise in engine speed and then a drop. Then turn it back in slightly until you get the rise in engine speed again, and then stop. That should get it very close to the right adjustment. Do this again after you mow with it so it's set properly when it's warm.
 
Having trouble resizing the pics to the appropriate size, but the 122 resto is coming down the home stretch. Thanks to all for your help in here.

In other news, I made the deal of the week as far as I am concerened. While swimming in the neighbors "concrete pond" over the weekend, I looked down the backyards and spied an 'IH' logo on a little cart.
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I immediately jumped out (while the wife was just shaking her head), knocked on the neighbors door, and long story short, traded him even-up my Agrifab cart for an original #2 cart in fantastic condition (save for some surface rust).
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Also, Chris Osbourne (Oz), I'm from SE PA too, and had the block on my 122 bored to .030" over at a machine shop who does excellent work in Doylestown. I'll email you the info.
 
Brian, she's a keeper!! I can't even get my wife to even sit on my cub.
 

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