Donald, also the crankshaft PTO end is usually a different diameter and might possibly be a different length.
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Archive through June 07, 2007
- Thread starter kmcconaughey
- Start date
Help Support IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum:
DONALD - With some parts swapping You may be able to make that swap work. Would require disassembly of both engines. The 12 HP CC pan would need to be bolted to the 16 HP Bolens block, and the crankshaft from the 16 hp would have to be reworked if it was larger and longer. If it's shorter then the PTO clutch wouldn't work quite right...May have to switch to an elec. PTO clutch. You don't say what model CC Your working with so You may already have an elec. PTO like on a 1200/1250.
Chris S Cannon,
Head gaskets should not be reused, get a new one. They only cost around $10. The gasket material is compressed when you torque the head down for the first time and that makes for a good seal. Reusing a gasket will be asking for problems with leakage that will eventually burn the gasket out and result in compression and power loss. Prolonged use with this condition can ruin your head as the hot escaping gas fumes are like taking a cutting torch to it.
Head gaskets should not be reused, get a new one. They only cost around $10. The gasket material is compressed when you torque the head down for the first time and that makes for a good seal. Reusing a gasket will be asking for problems with leakage that will eventually burn the gasket out and result in compression and power loss. Prolonged use with this condition can ruin your head as the hot escaping gas fumes are like taking a cutting torch to it.
I need some help. I have a 1250, I took the head off, cleaned up everything, adjusted the valves, put head back on with a new gasket, put on a point saver and coil from David Kirk,(very easy to install) rebuilt carb & put it back on. Started motor ran for about five minutes to warm up and retourqued the head bolts. Adjusted timing according to instructions that came with the point saver, motor starts right up and runs okay at an idle, will not wind up and run at top rpms it starts running crappy and spitting gas back out of the carb. I've tried adjusting the carb but it doesn't seem to make much difference, it just doesn't want to run smooth at high rpms and motor seems to heat up in a hurry.
Any ideas on what I've done wrong? Any advice will be appreciated.
Any ideas on what I've done wrong? Any advice will be appreciated.
mgonitzke
Well-known member
Jim C.-
You might have gotten dirt or something in the main needle of the carb, heating up fast means it's running too lean, which supports that theory. I bet your main needle is plugged.
By the way, 5 minutes isn't enough of a warm up to break in a head gasket. I've always run mine at least 30.
You might have gotten dirt or something in the main needle of the carb, heating up fast means it's running too lean, which supports that theory. I bet your main needle is plugged.
By the way, 5 minutes isn't enough of a warm up to break in a head gasket. I've always run mine at least 30.
Ron - I went back and installed a new gasket. Thanks for the info tho.
Matt - I adjusted the high and low idle screws on the carb and it cleared up the missing and the smoke. However, then I shut the motor down it backfired. I did let the motor run at low idle for 30 seconds before turning the key off. I will mess around with the carb some more to see if I can clear that up.
Thanks again for ya'll help. I should have thought about it running rich. Since it ran fine before pulling the head and cleaning, I didn't think about the carb.
Chris C.
Matt - I adjusted the high and low idle screws on the carb and it cleared up the missing and the smoke. However, then I shut the motor down it backfired. I did let the motor run at low idle for 30 seconds before turning the key off. I will mess around with the carb some more to see if I can clear that up.
Thanks again for ya'll help. I should have thought about it running rich. Since it ran fine before pulling the head and cleaning, I didn't think about the carb.
Chris C.
This has nothing to do with any of this just thought I would pop in and say hi. I will work on the pics this weekend. Being a new Cub owner i just think it is amazing how many cubs are out there I just didnt notice before now I can spot them Behind shrubs 600 yards away! Any who I whent up to my brother in laws fathers place and dont you know he has a 149 with a MF bucket mounted to the front also has an old NF and 1 I coundnt edentify because it has been Streeeeetched about 6 feet with a dump body installed. He also has the Snow thrower,rototiller,4 foot cyclebar and a IH dump cart. To bad they are all sittin under the barn (except dump cart) collecting dust rust and having bits taken off them. What a waste. Im in the prosses of TRYING to rescue the tiller but i wont hold my breath.
Kraig, I do use MMO but since I've only owned this cub a few weeks it may take a while to straighten her out, hell it runs better than my 100, no smoke or nuthin' it's kinda discouraging that it does that deiseling act at shut down but I only paid a $100 so I'm prepared to do any rescue mission that may be needed. Lawrence, MAY THE FORCE BE WITH YOU!
Hello, i`am off this morning to get a look at the bolens a 2 hr drive. it does have a electric front pto and hydro lift. It has a 48 in front mounted mower deck run from the electric pto to a shaft that runs the deck with 4 rubber tires to give proper height. I think this is quite a find and hears hopeing that the 16hp kol with fit in my 129 cub. the extra power will be nice with the new loader installed on the 129 thanks
oh where do i post a picture of this off topic tractor?(you should see the shape its in .lol)
oh where do i post a picture of this off topic tractor?(you should see the shape its in .lol)
I've got a problem that hopefully someone that has a hydrostatic Cub Cadet can answer for me. A guy came to my place the other day with a rearend and hydro assembly out of a 1250. He says it would drive fine going forwards, but it wouldn't hardly move in reverse. It eventually quit both directions. I did notice the centering springs were missing. I gave him different hydro release valves to try, but that didn't work. He took the hydro assembly apart, decided it was worn out, and put it back together. He says he isn't sure if he put it together right or not. I then gave him a rearend and hydro assembly out of a 129 to try. He put it in the 1250, checked the oil level, and then tried it. He says it went 20 feet in both directions just fine and then just stopped. Wouldn't do anything after that. He didn't change the hydro filter cause he is afraid to for some reason. Can anyone tell me what it would take to fix either rearend and hydro assemblies? I don't know what to tell him. I've got lots of hydro Cub Cadets, but I've never had any problems with them. One last question. Will a rearend and hydro assembly out of a 107 or 123 fit into the 1250? Thanks in advance.
mgonitzke
Well-known member
The 107 and 123 rears will fit. I wonder if maybe he sheared a spirol pin the second time. If that wasn't the problem, changing a filter might do it. Sometimes that works wonders.
Daniel C,
If the Hy-Tran oil in the tranny from the 129 hasn't been changed for along time it might be gelled up and need changing along with the filter. Other possibility would be the pin in the charge pump sheared or a dump valve went bad. I'd also check the drive shaft spirol pins. And Charlie will say "put an ounce of Cerma in it too."
If the Hy-Tran oil in the tranny from the 129 hasn't been changed for along time it might be gelled up and need changing along with the filter. Other possibility would be the pin in the charge pump sheared or a dump valve went bad. I'd also check the drive shaft spirol pins. And Charlie will say "put an ounce of Cerma in it too."
stanner
Well-known member
- Joined
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- Scott Tanner... Can't even see the Cub in this mess..
Donald T
an 'eared' block will fit in a WF with a few mods, but won't fit in a NF...
I have to make a sheetmetal plate to use the cub pan to the new block...
here are some pics of my adapter..
an 'eared' block will fit in a WF with a few mods, but won't fit in a NF...
I have to make a sheetmetal plate to use the cub pan to the new block...
here are some pics of my adapter..
What are the best front tires for snowplowing? I'm going to need new skins on the front soon, and I think plowing snow will be my priority. I've seen pics on here of Ag tread fronts, and one pic of a Cub with snowblower-type tires on the front. They look like they'd grip well in the snow! Thanks.
I'm going to go with snowblower-type. My buddy has one(1) on the front of his 73 at the moment,(not a good story why) and it improved his traction greatly. I have heard no big problems with ags other than mowing, may tear up the grass. I'm not sure what the snowblowr-type would do, he doesn't mow with it.
Christopher C,
Up here in Minnesnowta, I'm partial to the ags. I tried Tri ribs and snow hogs, the the ags seem to hold better in the turns, JMHO.
Up here in Minnesnowta, I'm partial to the ags. I tried Tri ribs and snow hogs, the the ags seem to hold better in the turns, JMHO.
