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Archive through July 31, 2011

IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum

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dross

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Dave Ross
I didn;t acually lay eyes on it. When I realized you were working on one like mine I looked up a bunch of stuff. I'm sure I still have the search, I'll have to find it. Try an get it to you by tonight.
 
60 mph on a Cub and the only thing your worried about is when the engine quits ?? You got a big pair of '.....' to ride at that speed! Better check your insurance policy...'Machoism' may not be covered!
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I just came across this looking for the other info thought you'd like it.
4A084
for some more info, scroll down.
 
Dave,
thanks for that link. After reading all that I think I'll just leave it stock.
Well, it will have a different air cleaner and exhaust. I had thought about switching over to a harley carb (cheap on ebay, everyone wants an aftermarket one)
but I will probably stick with my stock one.
 
Hmmmm..... Let's see now. LAWN tractor drag races. Steve A.'s tractor is a 125 Cub Cadet GARDEN tractor.
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Someone must've changed the rules somewhere along the line. Oh, well not for me to judge. So here goes with storytime.

Awhile back I posted about a little about my second cousin and his Shepard tractor and grinder/mixer that he had just purchased. Now this goes back to the early 1960s and my second cousin was a lot older than me (his oldest daughter was my age). My parents and us kids had gone over to visit the family one spring evening. Harold had just purchased the used Shepard tractor and grinder/mixer and had them sitting in a straight line in the yard. While checkng the tractor out, my cousin wanted to show my Dad how much power the tractor had so he fired it up, then he revved it up and THEN.... he at FULL throttle put the pto into gear..... SNAP and the pto shaft still attached to the grinder/mixer fell across the drawbar. With that my cousin quietly and quickly turned the tractor off, looked at my Dad and said, "I guess that was a dumb thing to do." He never again started the tractor and it sat there until it was repossessed when he went broke.

THAT was a straight/inline shaft situation. I'm not even going to begin to reflect of my thoughts on Steve's angled configuration other than this. I hope that you've sired all the children that you desire to have or have made other arrangements.

Now from what I've gathered throughout the years is that Iowa State University has a 1/4 scale team. Cyclone Power Pullers and that they pull using hydrostatic systems. Maybe you can contact them. Cyclone Power Pullers Home Page.

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Steve, you never asked and this isnt pointed at you.
Marlin, recapping here, so what your saying is a drive shaft designed for 540 or 1000 rpm spun to, say, 3600 rpm engine speed could be dangerous?
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Dave R. Yeah... I guess that is what I am saying. What I stated is the tractor and grinder mixer were STRAIGHT or INLINE and not set at ANY angle. Now.... think about this... If that sudden say around 50 or so horsepower tractor unleashed onto a non-spinning 540 deisgned pto shaft coupled to a non-moving grinder/mixer system and the fact that the steel in those components was thicker in design and built for the more rigorous usage of farm work failed....? Anyone understanding this???? It is pretty common sense. Like Matt G. stated with the angle of the driveshaft.... Also, one must remember the potential for things designed to function at say 540 or 1000 rpm really don't hold up well or last long at say 3600 rpm.

Or somewhat like the farmer that had the 540 pto shaft go out on his silage chopper. He subsituted a 1000 rpm hookup to finish chopping silage. Temptation gave in and he kept turning up the tractor speed (806 Diesel) instead of leaving it down to actually run around 540. He was amazed at how much chopping he got done before making the repair. In fact they finished the field. The ramifications of this one-time modification..... they could never keep any bearings in the chopper and ended up trading it off a couple of years later.

Steve A. I'm not trying to discourage you in the least bit. Otherwise I wouldn't have posted the link to the Iowa State team. Consult with them. BE SAFE with your project at all phases.... from design to actual running.

Again... these are just my thoughts. I base them on things I've experienced and witnessed. It is your tractor and feel free to do with it as you please.

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Ya all have a good day.
 
Steve, we're just concerned for the safety of you and anyone around you when you operate this thing. Tractors aren't designed to go 60 mph. Your front axle and steering had better be in PERFECT condition and adjusted correctly, and you need tapered roller bearing hubs, and high-speed wheels and tires on the front, too.

Good insurance and a good lawyer would probably be a good idea, too, if you're going to be operating this near other people.
 
It is just gonna be operated on a drag strip.
I intend all along to make a driveshaft cage.
And isn't the strain on a component transferring a given amount of power more at less rpm than at higher rpm? HP is a function of torque and rpm. If you are going to transfer say 40hp at 1000 rpm the strain on the components should be 3x higher than if you were transferring it at 3000rpm. Because you have fewer rpm to transfer the hp (hp being a function of work over time) Isn't that right? Or am I wrong on this one? I'll go look up the calculations for hp again...
 
STEVE - You are correct, 40 HP @ 1000 RPM requires three times the torque as would 40 HP @ 3000 RPM.
 
Steve - If they get you worried about it ... they make high angle constant velocity joints for rock crawlers that would take it. Some crawlers are 1000hp.

Remember Big Daddy lost part of his foot. I'd forget a cage as you called it and make a loop under it and a 1/4" steel shield over it. A blast blanket over the end of the engine back to the rear end wouldn't be bad either.

No automotive joint goes as fast as 3600 rpm. They really aren't designed for that. Other than guys making drive shafts for their cubs I can't think of any high speed use of a joint. <font size="-2">except Bubba down on the corner can roll a joint faster than anyone else</font>
 
actually any vehicle with an overdrive gear has a driveshaft that spins faster than engine speed.
Hence, the overdrive name. So basically almost all driveshafts on the road today turn faster than 3600 rpm at some point. Diesels excluded.
 
Steve-

Yes, that is true as the others have pointed out. I retract my previous statement about the carrier/axles breaking...I thought you were shooting for something more mild than 1:1 after the hydro. That would be the least of your worries anyway...

How are you going to stop? The wet brake won't likely do it, and if you try to slow it down too quickly with the hydro, you'll break it, which might lock up the rear, which would make the tractor want to switch ends. You have about 56x more energy to dissipate coming to a stop from 60 mph than you do from 8...
 
matt,
As far as braking, I'm thinking of adding external brakes with a quick acting bypass lever for the hydro.
Some automotive rotors (probably rear, non-vented style) off a jeep and calipers with the mechanical style emergency brake so I don't have to have a hydraulic system.
The drag race is just 330 ft so I have a very long runoff area as this happens on a 1/8 mile strip.
 
1/8 mile = 660 feet Sooo... you have equal distance to stop as you had to get up to that speed. Please forgive me on this.... however... if the drag race is just 330 feet how can an extra 330 feet once you reach sixty miles per hour be a long shutdown distance? OOooppss... just remembered the extra distance beyond the 1/8th mile track. Sorry about that.

A Little About Stopping Distances

Vehicle Stopping distance Calculator

Pretty interesting reading even though it is figuring automobiles. The calculator should help.

Right now I'm just thinking of the pucker factor .... 60 mph on a Cub Cadet and 330 feet to stop in.
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... plus the extra after the 1/8 track... Still that pucker factor is going to be wild.
 
Steve A.Now you're talking!!! You're receiving a tremendous amount of input here and we <u>ALL</u> have one common desire and that is to see you succeed.
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Been thinking about adding a custom hydrolic lift to my 122, my case parts tractor has a hydro pump that I could use that would be more than capeable to run a lift cylinder and possibly some ports on the front for a future power angel blade project, I could tap into the transmission for close to a gallon of hydro fluid so that takes care of a resivor, the hardest part I would think would be the plumbing I would prefer steal as it would look more factory and all the parts needed would need to be cheaper than just buying a factory hydro lift ($400). Any thoughts or suggestions?
 

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