Have a 149 which I just put on a rebuilt starter generator after old one froze up. Will not turn over eng and acts like battery: however, a new fully charged bat is installed. Noticed the starter turns conterclockwise ? I thought all engines turn clockwise. Eng turns easy by hand. Starter turns when not connected with belt. I have checked grounds. Help
-
This community needs YOUR help today. With the ever increasing fees of everything (server, software, domain, e-mail) , we need help. We need more Supporting Members, today. Please invest back into this community to help spread our love and knowledge of IH Cub Cadets. You get a lot of great new account perks including access to private forums. If you sign up for annual, I will ship a few IH Cub Cadet Forum decals too in addition to all the account perks you get. You can see what it looks like below.
Sign up here: https://www.ihcubcadet.com/account/upgrades
Archive through July 30, 2007
- Thread starter rbedell
- Start date
Help Support IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum:
rbedell
Well-known member
Robert N:
Facing the pulley end of the S/G it does and suppose to rotate CCW. See image at the bottom of this page for reference.
I would suggest, that all the wires, connections & terminals to the S/G be examined to make sure they are in good condition and making good metal contact.
I would also do the same for the Ground. Take an DVM and check to see if you have zero ohms between the S/G case and the Battery (-) terminal. Further, it would even be better to measure that resistance under load if you can accomplish this and roll the motor over at the same time. Also, make sure that you have at least 12VDC from S/G case ground to the "A" terminal, while under load when rolling the motor over.
If all that checks out, then I would suspect something internal to the S/G and you may want to have that checked.
Facing the pulley end of the S/G it does and suppose to rotate CCW. See image at the bottom of this page for reference.
I would suggest, that all the wires, connections & terminals to the S/G be examined to make sure they are in good condition and making good metal contact.
I would also do the same for the Ground. Take an DVM and check to see if you have zero ohms between the S/G case and the Battery (-) terminal. Further, it would even be better to measure that resistance under load if you can accomplish this and roll the motor over at the same time. Also, make sure that you have at least 12VDC from S/G case ground to the "A" terminal, while under load when rolling the motor over.
If all that checks out, then I would suspect something internal to the S/G and you may want to have that checked.
bellwood
Well-known member
- Joined
- Jul 29, 2007
- Messages
- 141
- displayname
- Brian Ellwood
If you guys are looking for International Harvester and Cub Cadet logo files you can grab em in a vector format from here for free:
http://www.brandsoftheworld.com/brands/0001/9911/International_Harvester.eps
http://www.brandsoftheworld.com/brands/0005/6292/Cub_Cadet.eps
http://www.brandsoftheworld.com/brands/0001/9911/International_Harvester.eps
http://www.brandsoftheworld.com/brands/0005/6292/Cub_Cadet.eps
nbextermueller
Well-known member
- Joined
- May 18, 2007
- Messages
- 909
- displayname
- Nic Bextermueller
Dennis-
Nope it's just a factory replacement stock rod. I didn't have the need to go forged with this engine.
Maybe the next one. I'd love to find someone in St. Louis that could do this work. I hate having to ship it out.
Nope it's just a factory replacement stock rod. I didn't have the need to go forged with this engine.
Maybe the next one. I'd love to find someone in St. Louis that could do this work. I hate having to ship it out.
NIC - I'm sure there's SOMEONE around St. Louis that does engine machine work. Little shop in the town 4-5 miles away did the little bit of machine work I had done on a K181 2-3 yrs ago. Since then Son & I have found about 4 more in Madison, WI. I did NOT want to go back to the shop I used for a K301 6-8 yrs ago. For My K321 I used a shop recommended by Dave Kirk and was 100% satisfied. Look in the Yellow Pages under Automotive Machine Shops. Turns out the shop in the phone book I'm looking at is located less than a MILE straight south of MY HOUSE! Son used to date His Step-daughter. Also check Automobile Performance Racing & Sports Car Equip. and check with Your local NAPA, CarQuest, Checker/Shuck/Kragen store. Guys behind the counters can lead You to a decent shop. Don't take much to rebuild these little Kohlers.
I dropped the crank off last night at the machine shop. These guys do a ton of engine machining, in fact I think that's all they do. They don't do crankshafts. They send them out. They said if the rod journal was too small or too damaged they would weld it back up and regrind it down. Its about $40 to grind it. They haven't told me how much it is to re-weld since the guy who does the machining is out for a couple of days.
Do you think machining a bushing into the rod is a better and less expensive solution than adding weld to the crank? They haven't told me how much is would cost to re-weld yet. I know you can buy .010 under sized rods but does anyone know if there is an aftermarket rod with a smaller size?
Do you think machining a bushing into the rod is a better and less expensive solution than adding weld to the crank? They haven't told me how much is would cost to re-weld yet. I know you can buy .010 under sized rods but does anyone know if there is an aftermarket rod with a smaller size?
nbextermueller
Well-known member
- Joined
- May 18, 2007
- Messages
- 909
- displayname
- Nic Bextermueller
Dennis,
There are plenty of machine shops around here. I personally have built countless race car engines with these guys. I have #'s to more than 10 good machine shops. The problem is the small diameter. Not one of them keep the tooling that involved with bore a 1.5" hole in a rod. They all said it wasn't cost effective to do that kind of work. Even the guy grinding my crank said he was lossing money in the labor time it took to set up the machine just to do 1 journal. He recently through out his dies to do the small rod cause he hadn't done one in years.
Terry,
No one makes any smaller rods. I'm going throught the same ordeal. They guys on here have been great in help. They have recommended emailing some of the above sponsors to mill the rod for bushings.
Brian Miller did mine, he's not a sponsor, but he was "local" for me. I don't know that I would jump to a recommendation of the guy though. It appears to be good work, but not excellent.
Does anybody have any issues with the unused hole in my rod and bearing? Rumor has it, it will collect debris and cause it score my crank and bearings... Please see the photos below.
Any opinions welcome.
There are plenty of machine shops around here. I personally have built countless race car engines with these guys. I have #'s to more than 10 good machine shops. The problem is the small diameter. Not one of them keep the tooling that involved with bore a 1.5" hole in a rod. They all said it wasn't cost effective to do that kind of work. Even the guy grinding my crank said he was lossing money in the labor time it took to set up the machine just to do 1 journal. He recently through out his dies to do the small rod cause he hadn't done one in years.
Terry,
No one makes any smaller rods. I'm going throught the same ordeal. They guys on here have been great in help. They have recommended emailing some of the above sponsors to mill the rod for bushings.
Brian Miller did mine, he's not a sponsor, but he was "local" for me. I don't know that I would jump to a recommendation of the guy though. It appears to be good work, but not excellent.
Does anybody have any issues with the unused hole in my rod and bearing? Rumor has it, it will collect debris and cause it score my crank and bearings... Please see the photos below.
Any opinions welcome.
TERRY - The crankshaft is cast iron. I don't think I'd recommend welding it, especially with the hollow rod throw. That's why I went with the inserted rod like Nic's. NIC - FWIW, My rod has the two extra holes in the insert too. And if ANYTHING in the oil is large enough to accumulate in those holes and not be centrifuged away from the journal surface You really should change Your engine's oil more frequenly. The only difference between Your rod & mine is I sprang for the Forged Alcoa rod. THAT was the hold-up why My engine took 3-1/2 yrs to rebuild. When I hauled it home it was apart in two hours....but I spent about three weeks looking for the Alcoa forged rod and gave up. I stumbled onto Brian's website by accident last fall about early November. I had My cam, rod, machine work done, balanced & assembled ready to drop into the track by the end of Jan. Then I had to refurbish some other things on the tractor.
Thanks for your help Charlie!!
I ordered a box of parts from a Sponsor today and I'm going to get the PTO on my 129 (with brake) put back to original form and function. I had cobbled it to work and quite nicely but there is nothing like the original design. I was amazed that Scott Madsen had the parts. Good guy to deal with. While I had Scott on the phone and the debit card was in sight I managed to spend another chunk on other goodies that were needed. This all started when I pulled the fenders to do the trunion repair which I should have done 5 yrs. Ago. Wow how smooth it is with the new trunion dimensions and springs/end caps!!!
I also purchased a new tensioner spring for the idler on the deck (had a brand new belt), a cork gasket for the hydro for a template so I can make my own out of neoprene, a battery hold down clamp and more. Now all I need is some time…….!!
Richard
I ordered a box of parts from a Sponsor today and I'm going to get the PTO on my 129 (with brake) put back to original form and function. I had cobbled it to work and quite nicely but there is nothing like the original design. I was amazed that Scott Madsen had the parts. Good guy to deal with. While I had Scott on the phone and the debit card was in sight I managed to spend another chunk on other goodies that were needed. This all started when I pulled the fenders to do the trunion repair which I should have done 5 yrs. Ago. Wow how smooth it is with the new trunion dimensions and springs/end caps!!!
I also purchased a new tensioner spring for the idler on the deck (had a brand new belt), a cork gasket for the hydro for a template so I can make my own out of neoprene, a battery hold down clamp and more. Now all I need is some time…….!!
Richard
Richard T.
COOL,
That's what we have those guys at the top of all the pages for.
They do a great job I might add.
COOL,
That's what we have those guys at the top of all the pages for.
They do a great job I might add.
I hope it's not a Cub!
Terry - Powder welding a crank aint cheap. You better check prices.
Nick - Chamfer and blend it in like oil passages should be done and it'll not cause any shavings although it will hold what might get in there.
Nick - Chamfer and blend it in like oil passages should be done and it'll not cause any shavings although it will hold what might get in there.
From what I could tell the crank was never ground. I think they should be able to grind it for the smaller rod. I really don't think welding will be necessary.
I did however ask how much to weld and grind. He said it should be around $60. I am taking that as a verbal quote.
I did however ask how much to weld and grind. He said it should be around $60. I am taking that as a verbal quote.
Just thinking out loud about the rod issues. I was thinking that you could mill off some of the rod end then re bore the rod. For example if crank was .010 under sized maybe you could mill off .010 from the rod end and another .010 from the rod cap. I realize that the rod end wouldn't completely seal around the crankshaft but most of the force is applied in-line with the piston.
I modified this picture for visual reference. The red lines indicate where you would machine the rod and the blue line indicated where the forces are applied.
I modified this picture for visual reference. The red lines indicate where you would machine the rod and the blue line indicated where the forces are applied.
kide
Well-known member
- Joined
- Aug 27, 2006
- Messages
- 3,779
- displayname
- Gerry Ide
Terry - you wouldn't have a consistent distribution of oil around the journal and I think the bearing would still pound out from the side centrifugal force. On the other hand, Model A Ford engines (and many others) had shim stacks between the block and main bearing caps ... Hmmmmmmm.
I am glad to be a part of the Cub Cadet legacy. I am a new member and thank you for having me. I am the second owner of a 1972 Cub 128(father passed to son, always family owned since new). I am planning a full resto this winter and I am eager to here any suggestions. I am wondering if any rear implements were available without rear PTO's? If they were offered, did they run belt driven off the mule drive? Please excuse my ignorance of these great American made machines.
Todd H.
Welcome to the forum.
Also, check out the FAQ link above and then go here too. There's tons of info for new Cub Cadet owners.
http://cubfaq.com/questions.html
Welcome to the forum.
Also, check out the FAQ link above and then go here too. There's tons of info for new Cub Cadet owners.
http://cubfaq.com/questions.html
and as the new guy you get to pay the other 1876 members a dollar each if there's no objections.
Hey guys, I'm picking up a beauty this weekend, a cub 100 with rear tiller, mowing deck and plow. It also has a creeper, ag wheels, wheel weights, lights and rounded fenders. Do any of you cub owners have one of these 100's ? Any pics ?
Thanks, Dave
Thanks, Dave
