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Archive through July 28, 2008

IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum

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Charlie, Bryan, sponsors, etc..
I emailed Charlie a while ago regarding a group buy on a special run of Gator blades for our orphan 3 blade decks. On another site I frequent, they do this a lot to leverage a good price on accessories.. Perhaps with an order for 1000 of the 11 or 12" blades they would consider a manufacturing run. Put me down for 8 small Gator Blades!
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Keith...
I gotta scan that bill of sale in to share...
 
James:
Prices from June '73 noted (by the original owner) in the sales brochure for the 8 - 14 HP Cubs that I got with my 129:
109 W/ 48" mower - 1618.00
129 W/ 48" mower - 1737.00
Snow thrower - 275.00
Front blade - 101.50
Hitch (???) - 37.50
Tiller - 415.00
I'm not sure if the "tiller" is a rear mount PTO driven or the 5 HP walk-behind, as he ended up buying the 5 HP walk-behind ( I got that, too)..

Kraig/Charlie: Do you have the "New for '72" 4 page 8 /12 x 11 brochure that shows all the models and specs(dude on the cover w/turtleneck shirt, pulling a lawn sweeper? I can scan this one for ya - pristine condition..except for the prices noted in the margins..
 
Kraig:
Yup ('cept mine says
"International Harvestor
Sales-Service-Rentals
5115 SO. Pennsylvania Ave.
Lansing, Michigan, 48910
Phone 393-6510"
stamped on the cover..

They're long gone, too.....
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Charlie - who da ya think is actually working while Kraig is posting pics???
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Old in many ways. Have moved on from 1952 chevy pick up to a IHCC 125. Have been unable to remove roll pins in the brake shaft to remove from tractor. Punch and drill not sucessful any ideas
Thanks
bob
 
Ahh, I forgot about that safety feature. Hmmm, guess a new seat voids that... Thanks Charlie.
 
Robert M:

Try this link in the archives, scroll down the page and you'll see discussion on roll pin punches.. (I searched on "roll pin punches") The crown in the center of the punch face causes the roll to contract as it's being driven.. Drilling should be a last resort as those pins are spring steel..
 
Scott T., just to give ya an idea of what the "base" model of the xx8,xx9 series cost new. My father bought an 86 model in 1972. Tractor,38 deck, 42 front blade and one set of IH wheel weights $1080. Dad does not recall the individual costs, but never forgot the total cost. I was not even thought of then but Dad said it was a good chunk of change for him then.
For what its worth, Dad had the bill of sale til about 15+ or - years ago.
 
I just bought a 127 cub cadet got it running and tried to move the tractor but the hydro no go. Its a little low on fluid is it possible that the pump is bad or just low on fluid. Im used to the gear tractors I have a 108 too that I am working on but the hydro is best for the snow coming up. I read the info on hydro's surging etc but nothing on not moving at all. In forward I can tell the engine starts to bog very little though. what should I check for and where is the drain plug. Thanks
 
Michael,

Try searching relief valves. I'm no hydro guy, but I know they can prevent motion.

James,

For perspective again, I can remember my dad moaning about the fact that he could've gotten a good used car for what he paid for our 124 (used) in '75. It was $900.
 
Michael L.
Make sure that the pump is turning with the engine running. You might just have a pin sheared off on the drive shaft back at the pump.
Get under it and check to make sure all the linkages are connected too.
 
Does anyone have a method for removing and replacing the driveshaft on a 147? The plastic fan is missing a couple of fins, and I'd like to replace it with a steel one. Thanks, Greg
 
Greg I Pulled the back end from under my tractor and replaced mine. Blue ribbon service manual shows this step by step.
Luther
 
Hey, thanks guys (kendel, scott, todd ect) for the original price. My dad couldn't remember what he paid for his 149--with tiller, deck, blade in 73'. Adding these facts to my scrap book. Also hard to find adds for the 1x9 series, a lot for others---where there many?.
I took my 169 frame in to get it sandblasted and should get it back today ready to Prime and paint--then reassembly.. good tip on the School Bus Yellow (as mentioned elsewhere) as a substitute for the yellow--very close...will be using this only on undercarrage/under fenders.
Need some advice. not up on the trany. the tractor rolls without the pressure reliefs/pins being pushed down, and tractor starts without pedel pushed down but ran fine-great. going to decarbanize head and replace gasket before putting engine back-and that all with the engine right now. Any advice/info?.
thanks Jim
 
Greg P.
Another way is to remove the engine bolts and slide it forward a little and the drive shaft will come right out.
 
Brett, here's the 1965 price list for the 100 and other Cub Cadet stuff.

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Have a few parts ready for sealer and primer. It`s a rotten job sandblasting.
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