Archive through July 26, 2007

[etifft]

Here I go again with my 1650. I was having an issue with the pto not engaging and having to jump start the tractor. Checked everything. Replaced a bunch of stuff. Determined, or I thought, that it was the battery.

Bought a brand new battery. Everything is great. Mowed the lawn last week. 3 acres. Just mowed again, tractor started right up. 2 minutes from being complete, and it happened again. Motor starts to quit, I turn off the pto. Attempt to re-engage the pto, nothing. Turn the tractor off, attempt to re-start the tractor, nothing. Jump start, it starts fine.

Appears the battery is not charging. Can anyone help me with this? What would cause this?

Again, sorry if this is a stupid question. I'm trying to learn.

Thanks in advance for all of the help.

Ed

 

[kmcconaughey]

Edward, with the tractor running have you measured the voltage at the battery? I believe it should be in the 13.8 to 14.5v range. Check all your ground connections. It is possible that the regulator is shot or out of adjustment, or it could be a bad connection. Could also be the alternator. Not a whole lot of help but checking the voltage when running would be a good place to start.

 

[etifft]

The battery is not registering 14v at full idle.
Could it be the regulator? Where is that?

 

[etifft]

Where is the alternator? Is that part of the starter?

 

[rbedell]

Edward T:

The Q/L's use a solid state Voltage Regulator. That regulator, to work properly, has to be grounded.

I would suggest taking a DVM and measuring the resistance betweeen the V/R Case and the Battery (-) Terminal. There should be zero ohms resistance.

Check that out and let us know. If that is OK, then we will go on to Plan B.

 

[etifft]

Thanks Roland.

Where is the voltage regulator?

 

[kmcconaughey]

Edward, Roland is correct the regulator in the 1650 and other Quiet Lines is solid state so ignore my comment about it being out of adjustment. (Hey I only have narrow frame Cubs, I usually don't pay much attention to the wide frames.

) Not exactly sure where the regulator on a 1650 is mounted. It should be a smallish box with three connector tabs on it. The "alternator" on the 1650 is part of the flywheel it's called a "stator" in the diagram. It is NOT part of the starter as on the Starter/Generator equipped Cub Cadets.

 

[rbedell]

Edward T:

 

[dfrisk]

Pops Corn - Those FARMALL CUBs share a LOT of parts with the Cub Cadets in the rearend areas. They look similar to the A's & B's but the A's & B's are much larger and more powerful. Cub = 60 cid flathead four & 3-speed tranmission; A/B = 113 CID OHV-four & 4-speed transmission. I always thought it would be a NEAT project to turn a basket-case B into a 1945 Super Garden Tractor version Cub Cadet 15 yrs before IHC got the idea....4-speed trans, Much heavier gears & shafts, etc. Little bugger could handle some serious HP.

 

[etifft]

Roland,

Yes, there is zero ohms resistance between the V/R case and the battery (-) terminal.

Now what?

 

[rbedell]

Edward T:

On to Plan B.

With the motor at 3600 RPM's or full throttle, see if you have these voltage readings as indicated in this Diagram.

Bear in mind, the V/R has to be grounded for accurate assessment.

Let us know what you got.

 

[etifft]

That'll take a minute. Have to jump start the tractor.

What if it does?

What if it doesn't?

What could be wrong?

 

[mhomrighausen]

Back home from work. Had class today for something I was doing last year. Kind of a refresher course. I should go over to the auction house since they have some neat Bob Gray original toys. Oh, well... they are going to go high.

Hydro Harry. I noticed the grille screen in there isn't OEM. I will locate one for the 1650 somewhere. If'n you are close to Colo and have the time stop by if'n you want. Unless it's raining I'll be out working on one of the Cubs. Or organizing the garage better. I have to figure out an area for my welder and drill press. I've sold the 127 to a friend only he is moving and won't be able to get it until September. That should give me enough workspace for the welder and drill press. Now I need a bigger garage and a bandsaw.

 

[etifft]

I got the 28VAC.

What next?

 

[rbedell]

Edward T:

Do you have, under the same conditions, 12 to 14.7 VDC on the middle B Terminal of the V/R, to ground...???

Let us know....

 

[dhassler]

Got some seat time tonight. Can't wait for that sweet corn to mature.

 

[mdomenic]

I just got done mowing with the 125 and I have to say this to anyone that thinks a geardrive can out mow a hydro you are wrong. I remember reading some time back someone saying that hydros suck EHH wrong again. I remember when they first came out they were the rage and I do believe you would be in the minority if you bought a gear drive today. I am speaking from experiance I have three geardrives....Now if you are pulling yes a hydro sucks. But if you are mowing like 95% of all cubs do get a hydro.

Just wanted to stir the pot a

little

 

[etifft]

No I do not.

 

[rbedell]

Edward T:

Replace the V/R, KH 25-755-03

 

[wvogel]

Hey guys, I'm a noob with a question. I just bought a 127 Hydro and I can't seem to get the rear wheels to move. The tractor had been sitting a considerable time like 3-4 years. Is there a manual release that I may have missed that will disengage the rear wheels? Also I cant seem to move the hydro lever near the steering wheel, how are the two issues connected? And can I start the engine with these things in place? I'm lost with this hydro, only have experience with gear drive. Thanks.