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Archive through July 25, 2015
- Thread starter sblunier
- Start date
Help Support IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum:
Cletus E.
Yep, you got it right.
Yep, you got it right.
mconway
Well-known member
it's been a while so i just wanted to get an update on the rebuilt 42 inch i did for my 109. after i got it together and tested, and the factory settings for level, it took a bit of do-dickin' around to get everything set to where i was satisfied. so far, i'm satisfied....
elamott
Well-known member
Donald:
Regarding your comments on timing. I understand the concept but I am unfamiliar with a magnet pointer. Could you explain or picture that.
I knew there had to be a better way than how I did the timing.
Thanks
Earl
Regarding your comments on timing. I understand the concept but I am unfamiliar with a magnet pointer. Could you explain or picture that.
I knew there had to be a better way than how I did the timing.
Thanks
Earl
Earl LaMott
I`am sure you have seen a few of those extendable magnet tools for picking up bolts and nuts that fall in tight places . Well i have one here that the top handle came off so it is now only 6" long . but that made it perfect for timing my cubs. stick the magnet on the block and the other end sticks out past the starter gen pulley .
I`am sure you have seen a few of those extendable magnet tools for picking up bolts and nuts that fall in tight places . Well i have one here that the top handle came off so it is now only 6" long . but that made it perfect for timing my cubs. stick the magnet on the block and the other end sticks out past the starter gen pulley .
Here's the link Don T. posted so the page isn't real wide.
http://tinyurl.com/nz269at
http://tinyurl.com/nz269at
mgwin
Well-known member
Anybody have a breakdown picture/diagram of the transmission? I would bet money Kraig does!
My friends cub will not go in gear, and the shift knob will turn all the way around. it feels like it is going in gear, but it don't.
Would the end of the shift knob be broken off?
My friends cub will not go in gear, and the shift knob will turn all the way around. it feels like it is going in gear, but it don't.
Would the end of the shift knob be broken off?
Ok Gerry Ide I’ll bite,
For all (standard) Cub engines yes. The point’s spring is strong enough to keep pressure on the pushrod. Now at high RPM’s someone might be able to argue there is a millisecond that it becomes lose or at the very lest apply less pressure and they would be right. Any cam shaft wears out on the up slant or the top, not the downward slop, kind of like a skier catching big air. However with less than 4000 RPM do not look to this as an issue. Now how lose would a spring have to be on a Cub to cause a problem? I don’t know. I do recall seeing a sloppy spring, that got bent but that would be a visual and would not use the points. The only time I heard of this being a problem was on a buddies drag bike back in the 70's but the RPM.s were super high. The valve spring would be a problem much sooner the points.
Bill
For all (standard) Cub engines yes. The point’s spring is strong enough to keep pressure on the pushrod. Now at high RPM’s someone might be able to argue there is a millisecond that it becomes lose or at the very lest apply less pressure and they would be right. Any cam shaft wears out on the up slant or the top, not the downward slop, kind of like a skier catching big air. However with less than 4000 RPM do not look to this as an issue. Now how lose would a spring have to be on a Cub to cause a problem? I don’t know. I do recall seeing a sloppy spring, that got bent but that would be a visual and would not use the points. The only time I heard of this being a problem was on a buddies drag bike back in the 70's but the RPM.s were super high. The valve spring would be a problem much sooner the points.
Bill
In the past couple years I had to replace front wheel bearings on the 107 that is over 40 years old and put new bushings in the 62 CCO that were not that bad but over 50 years old. Both still have the original tires on the rear the 62 looks to have original fronts. The 107 had to get new fronts in the late 80’s. Got in to some thorns. So today when I put new front tires on a 2010 “Cub Cadet” with bad sidewalls (OK only 4-5 years old) I find the plastic wheel bushing are bad as well.
Next time I have to put $20 or even $200 in to one of my IH CUB CADETS I will know it’s money well spent.
Next time I have to put $20 or even $200 in to one of my IH CUB CADETS I will know it’s money well spent.
Mike C., nice!
Marty, nice find on the 128! And yes, I have a cutaway view:
And other, possibly helpful photos regarding the shift lever. A common problem as Steve alluded to is the "cup" can break away from the shift lever and thus allow the shift lever to rotate all the way around. It could also be that the small pin that lines up with the slot in the "cup" can come loose. (I'll see if I can find a photo of that.)
The last three photos here shows a way to disassemble the shift lever assembly that is press fit together.
Marty, nice find on the 128! And yes, I have a cutaway view:
And other, possibly helpful photos regarding the shift lever. A common problem as Steve alluded to is the "cup" can break away from the shift lever and thus allow the shift lever to rotate all the way around. It could also be that the small pin that lines up with the slot in the "cup" can come loose. (I'll see if I can find a photo of that.)
The last three photos here shows a way to disassemble the shift lever assembly that is press fit together.
kide
Well-known member
- Joined
- Aug 27, 2006
- Messages
- 3,779
- displayname
- Gerry Ide
Bill R... haven't thought about points float in many years... My question is more towards the comments I see sugggesting that an inability to time an engine correctly was due to a worn points pushrod. I can see that happening only if the rod is so short that it loses contact with the cam or points during engine rotation or is at least short enough that you can't set point gap.
Summer heat getting to my brain, makes me fixate on weird stuff in my head. Also have a song stuck in my ear right now..... made the mistake of leaving a pop FM station on in the shop..... WTH is Bruno Mars??? and why won't he go away...
Summer heat getting to my brain, makes me fixate on weird stuff in my head. Also have a song stuck in my ear right now..... made the mistake of leaving a pop FM station on in the shop..... WTH is Bruno Mars??? and why won't he go away...
F12Mahon
Well-known member
My 1250 has so much power it shook the mount bolts right out of the oil pan.
I've looked in parts lookup and I can't find them on either the engine mounting parts page or the engine page. It's the 4 bolts that go up through the engine mounting rails into the oil pan. I need to know what length they are. Can someone help? Thanks.
hydroharry
Well-known member
- Joined
- Jul 22, 2007
- Messages
- 4,377
- displayname
- Harry Bursell
Marty G - better put that dipstick under lock and key. That style is correct for 169 series K341A engine. Exact replacements cost small fortune if you can find one new. Most of the replacements have an open finger loop that bends really easily when pulled. If you Vito any shows keep a close eye on yours to make sure it doesn't disappear.
Eugene M - I don't recall the length of toss 4 bolts but what I do recall is the 2 used towards the rear usually have a flat washer and a split washer. The 2 towards the front directly above the axle may only have the split washer because the hole in the frame isn't big enough for the flat washer and sometimes won't even have the split washer.
While you're replacing those bolts you should really check your rubber Iso-mounts. I suspect they are shot and your engine is really swinging side to side putting a lot of pull on those missing mounting bolts.
And one more thing. Be really careful putting those front mounting bolts in. If you don't remove the front axle for easy access then make sure to block that axle so it doesn't pinch your fingers.
Eugene M - I don't recall the length of toss 4 bolts but what I do recall is the 2 used towards the rear usually have a flat washer and a split washer. The 2 towards the front directly above the axle may only have the split washer because the hole in the frame isn't big enough for the flat washer and sometimes won't even have the split washer.
While you're replacing those bolts you should really check your rubber Iso-mounts. I suspect they are shot and your engine is really swinging side to side putting a lot of pull on those missing mounting bolts.
And one more thing. Be really careful putting those front mounting bolts in. If you don't remove the front axle for easy access then make sure to block that axle so it doesn't pinch your fingers.
Eugene M.
Tilt your head the other way when you look them up.
Tilt your head the other way when you look them up.
So the wife gets an alert on her cell phone last night at 7:00, and off we go to snag a red one with some goodies attached.
Cub cadet 782 - $500 (Bagley)
Cub cadet 782 riding mower with a kohler kt17 comes with deck, tiller, snow blower, and an extra parts engine. It does need a little work the electric clutch does not work and it sometimes starts hard but always runs well once it starts call or text 218-five xxx six-3 xxx zero 7 no emails
do NOT contact me with unsolicited services or offers
A real barn find. And the guy actually drove it in the trailer for me, LOL
Cub cadet 782 - $500 (Bagley)
Cub cadet 782 riding mower with a kohler kt17 comes with deck, tiller, snow blower, and an extra parts engine. It does need a little work the electric clutch does not work and it sometimes starts hard but always runs well once it starts call or text 218-five xxx six-3 xxx zero 7 no emails
do NOT contact me with unsolicited services or offers
A real barn find. And the guy actually drove it in the trailer for me, LOL
Greetings, I've recently acquired my fathers 1450. After some work on getting it started, new battery and frustration on getting the 44A mower deck that I had to dig out of the woods to work. The machine was running fine. Herky-Jerky as I remember as a kid. Last weekend the machine just stopped and would not restart. Checked fuel in the tank and carb. New plug as the Koheler engine is drinking oil. Any suggestions as to where to go from here. Thank you.
hydroharry
Well-known member
- Joined
- Jul 22, 2007
- Messages
- 4,377
- displayname
- Harry Bursell
Eugene M - hold your horses. Charlie thought you were asking about the Iso-mount bolts. I can't recall the size of the engine mount bolts. I know they are about an inch long, could be 7/8 long just can't remember.
Charlie - nice find there. Good to see you're gradually building your herd back up. (But suppose you'll grab anything for right price
Charlie - nice find there. Good to see you're gradually building your herd back up. (But suppose you'll grab anything for right price
Todd J.
If it were mine, I'd start with seeing if you have spark at the plug. Then I'd check the PTO switch and then all the ground connections, especially at the battery and the engine at the grill/frame connection.
Fire, fuel and air is all it takes to make'um run, LOL
If it were mine, I'd start with seeing if you have spark at the plug. Then I'd check the PTO switch and then all the ground connections, especially at the battery and the engine at the grill/frame connection.
Fire, fuel and air is all it takes to make'um run, LOL
