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Archive through July 22, 2013

IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum

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I have a question about any steering component differences between the Wideframe and Quietline Cubs.

We have 2 149's a 1450 and now a 1650. All have been serviced and greased, but the 149's steering wheel is fairly easy to turn while stationary or moving. My 1450 is fairly stiff when moving and it takes 2 hands to turn the wheel if it is stationary. The 1650 takes 2 hands all the time. Is there something different between the 2 series, they all have wide front tires, all but the 1650 have a "steering ball (spinner)".
 
Scott N.
If it were me, I would jack the front up and see how the rough one turns all hooked up.
Then unhook the tie rod and see if it's the steering box that's tight or not.
If the steering assembly turns hard, you've found the problem.
If it doesn't, then it's in the axle assembly somewhere. Bent tie rod or no grease in the spindle shafts or something along those lines.
 
Since no one else is posting today, I figured I would show you what I came up with today while rebuilding front PTO's, LOL
261040.jpg
 
Dennis, et el:

I would buy a reproduction 582/682/782. I can't find a red Cub Cadet for sale that either isn't a huge money pit basket case, or isn't priced like a new tractor in its retirement. I'd like to have another tractor, but don't care to have another rebuilder.

Time to go change the HyTran.
 
Brian...... Ref Shortage of Cubs..How close to you live to Charlie? Do you see any possible cause and effect there???

Charlie... Them's big thin donuts.. Your supplier testing you to see if you're watching??
 
Ok, how bout we go with a narrow frame with round fenders thread!
 
Dennis F- I have a few questions on how to preform a rear wheel seal replacement. I ran through both FAQ's, and did not come up with what I was looking for. Yes, I'm new at this procedure for I was only born in 1976. Here goes:

I want to paint my 1968 IH Cub Cadet 72 transmission. I know the right side is a slow leaker,{"right side" as pre Operator's Manual} so I know its best to replace both.

A. C-clip removal: Will I be in need of new replacements? If so, what would be the identification part number for the C-clips?

B. Will I need to replace gasket between the axel housing and main body? {I believe I can hunt down these part numbers}

C. Rear Wheel Seals: I have here a NAPA # 9878 . Does this ring a bell?

My goal of this post is to find out any tips for completing a successful wheel seal install. I don't like diving into something with out asking questions.

Also, a big number 1 with the way I go about working on my 72, is to have all new parts on hand next to me before tear down. I would like to buy all parts first.

I have 1 gallon of Hy-Tran, and the rear cover gasket, and the BRSM for this model.
 

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