Archive through July 21, 2007

[ccote]

I took the seat pan/fenders off my "new" 129 to see what I've gotten myself into. This is the 129 with a blown engine and a gear-drive type clutch and hydro transmission. Here is what I found:

I don't think it's the dirtiest hydro ever, but I think it's up there with the worst. Is there any way to check and see if this thing is any good with the engine out? I can roll the tractor with little or no resistance from the hyrdo, and the trunnion arm moves with absolutely no resistance. Is that bad?

 

[rbedell]

David R:

Is this what you are looking for...??

 

[rbedell]

Chris:

Yup....the tractor needs a clean job alright.

How about a better picture of this "clutch" attached to this Hydro Cub...??

 

[digger]

Chris C.
I think one of mine was just a tad worse than yours, LOL

It looks like your relief buttons are stuck part way down and rusted a little. That's probably why it moves so easy.
It also looks like the flapper was missing to push them down.

 

[ccote]

Charlie - yours is definitely dirtier! The flapper is MIA, so that's probably part of the problem. I pushed the buttons down, and they didn't spring back up. I think I took the picture at that point. I was able to grab the buttons with my fingernails and pull them back up a bit, maybe 1/8". How high should they stick up? Does that mean the check valves are bad? I did check the fluid level, and it is full.

Roland, here is the clutch:

 

[mgonitzke]

Christopher C.-

I don't think I'd worry about the condition of the transmission. If it has a blown motor, it was likely being used for something or at least driven when the engine failure occurred. If it was mine I wouldn't worry.

The most common, and therefore most likely hydro transmission failure mode seems to be when someone tows it without releasing it, the pistons and slippers on the motor cylinder block detach, jamming the motor assembly, making it impossible to roll the tractor. It is fairly normal to have release valves stick down when the machine has been sitting for some time. Clean up the rear and put some PB blaster or similar product on the valves and wait until you fix the motor, they'll likely start to come back up on their own after the tractor is used regularly. They don't come up much farther than 1/8". There's probably nothing wrong with the valves either. Return the driveshaft to its original configuration and put in a motor and you should be good to go. If the trans doesn't work, change the filter, they often get plugged. Good luck, and keep us posted on your progress...

 

[jbridgewater]

I just picked up my first Cub, a 1450. I was noticing some of the other 1450's on EPay have front hydraulics. What would it take to make mine have front as well?

 

[rbedell]

Jim B:

You will need all the extra items that your present 1450 does not have.

See Parts Diagram

 

[rbedell]

Chris C:

Well, I stumbled across this while looking for information on your Cub. Apparently, the Cub Cadet offered an attachment, introduced for the Q/L series, for a Hydrostatic Drive Disconnect. I did NOT know that they offered this nor have ever seen it. I learned something this morning.

I would venture a guess, since the 1x8/9 Series and the Q/L Series are both Wide Frames, that someone retrofitted a Q/L Hydrostatic Disconnect Attachment onto your 129.

Here is an image of the attachment. I have searched through my library of goodies and can find nothing on it. Maybe Myron can add some more or additional information on this attachment.

 

[lhull]

CCO Question. Did the early Cubs have the hood brace? I have a # 1606 w/o the brace and no welds/marks inside that would show that there ever was one. Any input is appreciated.

 

[mgonitzke]

Roland B.-

That's interesting, it looks like a QL gear drive clutch, what's with that hydraulic line?

That doesn't look anything like the disconnect clutch on my 782D. I was expecting something more along those lines.

 

[sporter]

Can not find parts look up on this page, please help!

 

[mgonitzke]

Stephen P.-

Click the "Cub Cadet Parts Lookup" button above on this page, or if you can't see the buttons above for some reason, click here:

http://cubcadet.arinet.com/scripts/EmpartISAPI.dll?MF&app=cub53&tf=EmpartWeb&loginid=cubcadet&loginpwd=test

 

[ccote]

Roland, That looks like what I've got. I've got parts 9, 11, 12 and 13 in the box with the engine parts. Do you have any idea what part #19 does? What should it be connected to? The parts list calls it a "Tube Assembly, Return".

 

[tbenak]

Any suggestions on my question posted yesterday?
I have a question. I have just removed the pto from my recently acquired 169. I did this because it seemed to have too much wobble or play whenever I grabbed ahold of it. (not running of course). The pto came off real easy. It had six set screws however none were of the conical type. (first in). I feel this was part of the problem. Question is how much movement should there be in the pto bearing on the end of the crank shaft? When I grab it I can wiggle it from side to side a little. I know...how much is a little? It seems to move about 1/16" both ways and spins nicely. Any suggestions? TIA

TIA again.

 

[ccote]

When I rebuilt the PTO in my 106, there was no discernible play in the bearing. I'd replace it if it has 1/16" play. You'll also need the cone point set screws. I had to replace one of the screws on mine, and no hardware stores around had cone point set screws. I could have mail-ordered a box of 25 for $8 plus shipping, or my local Cub dealer sold them for $7 each. I went with the dealer, but if I had needed all three, I would have ordered a box from McMaster Carr.

 

[jpmoore]

Thomas...wish I could help ya. I'm having trouble figuring out how this pto clutch deal even works, at least on my 105.

My pto would not disengage after I rebuilt it. I found that my inner set screws weren't even tightened in all the way. What in the heck do these set screws even do? Do they get tightened against the bearing, or do they tighten in just behind the bearing? I assume they just hold the clutch from sliding forward off the front? Does this mean that since my screws weren't even protruding through the inside enough to contact anything my PTO had moved a little bit forward off of the shaft causing the clutch to not disengage? Well, as of now that's the way I'm thinking.

 

[jpmoore]

Christopher--could you post a link to Mcmaster Carr and those bulk set screws? Thanks

 

[ccote]

Jarrod,

McMaster Carr's website isn't link-friendly. The part number is 92695A305. I was wrong on the price, they are $5.25 for the box of 25.

Here's a cutaway of the PTO. It was very helpful to me when I was struggling to get my PTO adjusted so it would disengage:

Make sure when you install the PTO that the fiber disc isn't jammed tight into the drive cup. If it is, it will not disengage. On mine, the fiber disc is a very snug fit in the drive cup. I only used two of the three anti-rattle springs, and once installed, I had to wiggle it around a bit with a thin screwdriver so that it didn't bind. If it's in too tight, it will press against the pressure plate and the clutch won't disengage.

 

[jpmoore]

Thanks a lot Chris. I'm gonna toss this thing back together today, and I'll pay close attention to the fiber disc.

I might go for the box of 25 set screws from Mcmaster Carr for future use.

Honestly though, the only real problem I saw was those set screws not being tight--apparently the p.o. had dumped a bunch of locktite in the holes...so when i tightened them last time I unknowingly was tightening them against locktite. That is now cleaned up and they screw in as far as they should.

Otherwise in regards to other tips I received--the clutch was adjusted correctly (according to the gauge) the bearing is/was out 1/16th of an inch off of the front of the crankshaft (just up to the wire stop in it)..etc..etc.

I'll know soon if she works correctly.