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Archive through July 20, 2005
- Thread starter bmoore
- Start date
Help Support IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum:
bmcmeen
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- Oct 31, 2002
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- Bryan D. McMeen, Keeper of the Holy Hy-Tran
Richard Debertin -
Since everyone's too busy to answer you...
All I can guess is that you are missing the 1/8x2-1/4 pipe extension and 1/8 pipe coupler, which would put your creeper breather within wrenching reach.
If your breather is screwed directly into the creeper, thus placing it way below the top of the frame, your only recourse really is to split the tractor per the shop manual. And then get that extension put in!
Hopefully someone's got the parts manual diagram ready to post to show you how it should look...
Since everyone's too busy to answer you...
All I can guess is that you are missing the 1/8x2-1/4 pipe extension and 1/8 pipe coupler, which would put your creeper breather within wrenching reach.
If your breather is screwed directly into the creeper, thus placing it way below the top of the frame, your only recourse really is to split the tractor per the shop manual. And then get that extension put in!
Hopefully someone's got the parts manual diagram ready to post to show you how it should look...
Thanks Jim,
Maybe that's what happened. I had just mowed a 40 deg. incline & was heading back when it happened. Already have the carb off so will check it and any dirt that may be in the needle valve.
Thanks to you & Steve for the tips
Maybe that's what happened. I had just mowed a 40 deg. incline & was heading back when it happened. Already have the carb off so will check it and any dirt that may be in the needle valve.
Thanks to you & Steve for the tips
Richard Debertin,
I think that this is the diagram that Bryan is talking about. Number 26 is the 1/8"x2-1/4 nipple, 25 is a 1/8 pipe coupler, and 3 would be your breather. Hope this gives a little insight to what Bryan was saying.
I think that this is the diagram that Bryan is talking about. Number 26 is the 1/8"x2-1/4 nipple, 25 is a 1/8 pipe coupler, and 3 would be your breather. Hope this gives a little insight to what Bryan was saying.
Bryan- I was too vague earlier...
What I meant was, do you think that this would be a sufficient powerhouse or should I fix and sell the Toro, and with the money made buy a Kubota like my original plan. I don't wanna make anyone mad about an O.T. tractor, sorry.
What I meant was, do you think that this would be a sufficient powerhouse or should I fix and sell the Toro, and with the money made buy a Kubota like my original plan. I don't wanna make anyone mad about an O.T. tractor, sorry.
Norm, my 682 had done the same thing last mowing season and I had no idea what it was. I started shutting the fuel valve off after each use and also started using MMO in the gas and crankcase. Don't know which of those if any fixed it. But, it hasn't happened since. I think I may have a leak when it is off because it did it even on level ground but don't know for sure.
JEFF D. - That top button, #1 in Charlie's post has some grooves cut in it for the float latch button to hold the button down and allow mowers, plows, blades, etc. to follow the contour of the ground. I highly recommend replacing #1 at least with the OEM part. The mechanism used on the later tractors is REALLY easy to use compared to the little wire bail on the '61 to '63 Cub Cadets & #70 & 100's.
bmcmeen
Well-known member
- Joined
- Oct 31, 2002
- Messages
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- displayname
- Bryan D. McMeen, Keeper of the Holy Hy-Tran
Denny -
Hmmm - I coulda sworn that Dan was making stainless versions for Madsons and CC Specialties but all I can find are Original and the older styles. And I could use one right about now
Hmmm - I coulda sworn that Dan was making stainless versions for Madsons and CC Specialties but all I can find are Original and the older styles. And I could use one right about now
Bryan, can't you just call up Dan and ask for a custom one? 
)
Lonny, how does that Cub drive/steer with tall front tires? It looks like it wouldn't turn very tight, especially with the wider tall tires.
) Lonny, how does that Cub drive/steer with tall front tires? It looks like it wouldn't turn very tight, especially with the wider tall tires.
rchristensen
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- Aug 12, 2006
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- Richard Christensen
Speaking of gas in the engine don't try this without first shutting off your gas and running the engine till the gas is out of the carb.
I wanted to replace the rear gasket without draining the hydro fluid. By the way this is the angle you need to prevent spilling any fluid.
I wanted to replace the rear gasket without draining the hydro fluid. By the way this is the angle you need to prevent spilling any fluid.
Bryan - I did the R&R on My lift lever on My 72 about 3 yrs ago. The top button #1 I got from My local dealer was clear zinc plated (silver) but a Stainless one sure would polish up nice!
I don't even like drilling small holes thru some pieces of22 ga. #4 brush polish finished 304 SS I have for making covers & brackets. But I do it... and have the bits with the blue tinted ends to prove it! Takes high HP and rigid machines with low rpm to machine stainless well. Sounds a LOT more like Dan's shop than mine....
I don't even like drilling small holes thru some pieces of22 ga. #4 brush polish finished 304 SS I have for making covers & brackets. But I do it... and have the bits with the blue tinted ends to prove it! Takes high HP and rigid machines with low rpm to machine stainless well. Sounds a LOT more like Dan's shop than mine....
Kraig Mc,
It steers just fine useing the skinny tires, they do not hit the frame rail at all, however the wide tires when turned inside out will hit the frame, same with the 6-12 ags, I have only drove with the skinny tires so I dont know how it would handle with the wide tires on the front.
It steers just fine useing the skinny tires, they do not hit the frame rail at all, however the wide tires when turned inside out will hit the frame, same with the 6-12 ags, I have only drove with the skinny tires so I dont know how it would handle with the wide tires on the front.
Chuck,
I have not had a plow hooked up to this tractor as of yet.
I needed to put the larger tires on the front to level the tractor after I put the larger rear tires on it.
It will help keep the oil level level in the grankcase, makeing reading the dipstick more accurate and alowing the oil be splashed around by the crank.
I gained 3 inches of lift putting the 5.00-15 on the rear and 1.25 inch of height in the front.
I will be looking for a set of 16 or 17 inch rims for the rear, depending how much higher I will neer to go when and if I get around to building a narrow front for it.
I have not had a plow hooked up to this tractor as of yet.
I needed to put the larger tires on the front to level the tractor after I put the larger rear tires on it.
It will help keep the oil level level in the grankcase, makeing reading the dipstick more accurate and alowing the oil be splashed around by the crank.
I gained 3 inches of lift putting the 5.00-15 on the rear and 1.25 inch of height in the front.
I will be looking for a set of 16 or 17 inch rims for the rear, depending how much higher I will neer to go when and if I get around to building a narrow front for it.
