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Archive through July 20, 2005

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Jeff,
The handle is hollow. It has a long rod about 1/4" diameter with threads on one end, and a 90 degree bend on the other. The 90 degree bend or hook is used to catch the teeth on the lift ratchet. The threaded end has a spring over it with a threaded steel button, which is what your thumb pushes to adjust the lift. If you have no more ratcheting then the rod is either stuck or the steel button unscrewed from the shaft. If the rod is stuck then the lift shaft might be bent preventing movement. Bending usually occurs while snow throwing because of the force needed to lift the implement.

Is the steel button in the hole or is it missing? Has the rod fallen out of the lift arm?
 
Jeff D,
Do a search in the vault for (handle button), you'll be amazed at all the info there is.
Posted by Kraig MANY times!
<blockquote><hr size=0><!-quote-!><font size=1>quote:</font>

By Kraig McConaughey "Keeper of the Photos" (Kmcconaughey) on Friday, May 14, 2004 - 11:49 am:

Kenneth, the top button (#1 in the drawing) should unscrew from the rod (not shown) then the rod should drop out the bottom of the lift handle (#6). I don't think you'll need to do this if the problem is with the float button (#4). I believe the float button (#4) is just a press in deal, it should come out with a good pair of pliers. I'm sure someone will correct me if I'm wrong.<!-/quote-!><hr size=0></blockquote>
29412.jpg
 
Charlie , thank you for finding the exploded view.

Terry,
The missing part is item 1 in the exploded view. The rod with the 90 degree bend is sitting on the side to side rod of item 6. It just " slid down and stopped".


I will check out the rod tomorrow to see if it broke or just unscrewed from the button.

Thanks again for the help.

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Jeff
 
I got a 1650 recently and tonight I took off the rear tires to install a 3 pt hitch and discovered that this tractor has internal brakes. Is this right for a 1650 or did someone change it? It has hyd lift.
Thanks, Kevin
 
Kevin L:

In the TC-157 Parts Manual, they list parts for both "internal" and "external" brake systems for the 1650.

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WES - Those C/H/M front wheel weights are about 42# each. You must be stronger than You Think!
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JEFF D. - I hope Your inner lift latch rod didn't break, They are a PITA to replace. I hope #1 in the exploded view just came unscrewed and released all the spring pressure and let the rod drop down. The rod is 5/16" dia. and it's NOT available as a repair part. You have to make Your own. The rod has to be slid in from the top all assembled with the springs, washers, & top button, then heated & bent about 75 Degrees on the bottom. BT-DT. And if ANYBODY has an easy way to remove the front capscrews on the footrests of a narrow frame CC Please let Me know. Seriously, I have about 1000 wrenches, socketsw, & extensions, and have yet to find the correct combination to easily remove those two little 5/16" capscrews from inside the frame.
 
Dennis F. A 3/8" deep well socket will take the one out opposite the steering gear box. It's pretty easy. Use a standard 3/8" socket on the side with the steering gear box, but it's slow going. (It requires a 9/16" socket.) I've removed 4 in the last week. The one on the left side is kinda tough.
 
Still looking for information on how to get at the refill vent on creeper on my 122
Manual just says remove vent plug. How do you get it out no wrench I have tried seems to fit it.
 
Lonny,
Great pics. I particulary like the easy chair on the deck. Gotta get one.
BTW, I find the 2nd pic from the top a little disturbing: a Green Bay Logo on a Chicago Bred Harvester. To use a religous term, that's pure heresy. . .
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PAUL F. - The right one is easy.... but the side next to the steering gearbox is a PAIN. I've tried "Shorty" combination wrenches, 1/4" drive's & extensions, 3/8" drives. Even tried My pnuematic ratchet, U-joints & extensions. I haven't tried the Craftsman "Middy-length" sockets yet. I don't think a GEARWRENCH will get on the head of those capscrews, not enough room between the head and frame bottom.
One thing I learned a LONG time ago about working on IHC's.... They're easy to work on IF You dissassemble them and reassemble them the way the Factory did.
 
Kevin:

You will find both internal and external brakes on the 1650. I have one of each. Also the same is true on the other Q/L's. I have 1450's both ways and 1200's both ways and a 1250 parts that has external brakes.
 
Dennis F. My Craftsman 3/8" ratchet with a standard Craftsman 9/16" socket fits over the bolt head between the gearbox and side rail. I have to work everything inside the rail; not down below or above it. Yesterday when i put one back I could only get one "click" at a time. Also, putting it back, I put the bolt in and start it before shoving the foot pedal all the way back into position.
 
Denny,
They may call them 42# but when I put mine on the scale it said 36#. Maybe they were advertised 42# with the mounting hardware.
 
Frank Mills at Celanese Acetate - this is the SECOND time you've signed up with an invalid e-mail address (your server bounced it AGAIN) - I suggest that you check with your IT department and find out what's going on.
 
Hello everyone - I'm new to this list.

I have always been an IH fan (a 74 200 4X4 and a 75 200 Travelette) and became interested in the cub cadet mowers at the Red Power Roundup I attended several years ago in Iowa.

I moved to Kinston, NC recently and now have a good neighbor that has indicated that he will sell me his 782. I've done a couple of days of internet searches and found information on the down points of the 17hp Kohler Series I motors oiling problems, and read about the different (steel and aluminum) transaxles of this series. Are there any any "don't buy that model" horror stories I should know about? It is in really great "garaged since new" shape.

I don't know yet the serial numbers; what years was the 782 produced? It is red in color and shines right down to the chrome hub caps.

Thanks

Brad
 
Brad, welcome! My records (A chart in an attachment guide) show that the 782 was made from 7/80 until 8/84. IH made them from 7/80 until 6/81 then Cub Cadet Corporation/MTD made them from 7/81 until 8/84.
 
Thanks Kraig. I'm assuming then since it's red it was made in either 80 or 81 then..... or did CC make them red for a while?
 
Brad, CC made them in red for IH dealers and yellow and white for CC dealers.
 
Brad,

SN:665001-700000 = 7/80-6/81
SN:700001-719999 = 7/81-2/83
SN:720000-737624 = 2/83-8/84
 

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