till
Well-known member
I have a 1982 682 that has a Series I in it and it was beat on and abused befor I got it. Runs great.
It is hard to go wrong with an 82.
It is hard to go wrong with an 82.
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Archive through July 20, 2005
- Thread starter bmoore
- Start date
Help Support IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum:
rbedell
Well-known member
Attn 105 Owners:
I have been working on my 105 of recent. One of it's problems, was the S/G pulley. The pulley that came with the tractor, looks like it has been beat on. It is disformed to the point where it will chew up the S/G belt. I ordered a new pulley and it came in today.
The one that came with the tractor is the one on the left and is 3" in diameter. The one on the right is what it called for, being KH-235583-S. It is 2-1/2" in diameter.
Now, either the PO(s) cobbled a pulley for the S/G and it is not correct, or the replacement pulley is not the right one. Both pulleys accept the 3/8" belt and the offset for alignment is correct. The left pulley does have Cub Yellow on it, in places.
Can anyone expand on this issue by measuring the OD of your S/G Pulleys and let me know?
Thanks,
I have been working on my 105 of recent. One of it's problems, was the S/G pulley. The pulley that came with the tractor, looks like it has been beat on. It is disformed to the point where it will chew up the S/G belt. I ordered a new pulley and it came in today.
The one that came with the tractor is the one on the left and is 3" in diameter. The one on the right is what it called for, being KH-235583-S. It is 2-1/2" in diameter.
Now, either the PO(s) cobbled a pulley for the S/G and it is not correct, or the replacement pulley is not the right one. Both pulleys accept the 3/8" belt and the offset for alignment is correct. The left pulley does have Cub Yellow on it, in places.
Can anyone expand on this issue by measuring the OD of your S/G Pulleys and let me know?
Thanks,
sblunier
Well-known member
- Joined
- Aug 4, 2006
- Messages
- 4,826
- displayname
- Steve Blunier "Mr. Plow" (Central IL)
There are 2 different sized S/G pulleys in use. Early tractors without compression release engines used the smaller pulley for more torque. Later tractors with compression release used the larger pulley for more speed. These are general statements, but they go to show that the pulley dia. was selected to produce the best starting.
Put the new one on and don't worry about it, if anything it will start better when the battery is low or cold.
Put the new one on and don't worry about it, if anything it will start better when the battery is low or cold.
Brad, if it was well taken care of even a Series I engine will last many years. My 682 still has the original Series I in it and runs like a champ. I will eventually repower with a Mag18 or Series II. The cast iron rearend will give you more weight in the back, 3pt hitch will be less expensive. I like my AL rearend but it is going to break me when I decide to put a 3pt hitch on.
till
Well-known member
Ray,
It is in a holding pattern till the wife list is done.
Dishwasher is in and deck is nearing completion. Now to finish off the laundry room. In the mean time I still have to finish my neighbors 149. Then I will get back to the AIrstream. I still want to tear apart the 682 and clean and paint it. It does mow nice when the grass grows.
It is in a holding pattern till the wife list is done.
Here are couple snap shots of the wide frame spindle upgrade to accomadate the front hubs on my project cub.
I had to cut apart a spindel from a 154 to get the needed 4 inches for the hub, I ground off the weld from the WF spindle and removed the 3inch spindle and replaces it with a 4inch spindle, added the needed spacers to the bottom of the NF axle to fill up the gap.
I can use a many different combanations of front tires now.
I had to cut apart a spindel from a 154 to get the needed 4 inches for the hub, I ground off the weld from the WF spindle and removed the 3inch spindle and replaces it with a 4inch spindle, added the needed spacers to the bottom of the NF axle to fill up the gap.
I can use a many different combanations of front tires now.
A couple of days ago I wrote that I had about a gallon & a half of gas in my 682 crankcase. We agreed it was the fuel pump. I just took it off & it seems to pump fine by hand. I took it apart & the diaphram is fine. But I can't figure any other possible way the gas got in the crankcase. I checked the carb & it looks fine, no bad float. Anyone got any ideas? Am I wrong about the fuel pump, is that a good way to check it?
IGNITION TROUBLES:
Hey guys my 102 won't start, and I'm very new to Kohler ignition systems. I pressure washed it about a week ago, not any of the electrics, anyways, it cranks, it has voltage on the positive side of the coil, but NO SPARK. I changed the spark wire, put in a new plug and cranked with the plug shell grounded and N-O--S-P-A-R-K!!!
I'm really frustrated as I needed it today to begin my landscaping work!
Help!
-Trev-
Hey guys my 102 won't start, and I'm very new to Kohler ignition systems. I pressure washed it about a week ago, not any of the electrics, anyways, it cranks, it has voltage on the positive side of the coil, but NO SPARK. I changed the spark wire, put in a new plug and cranked with the plug shell grounded and N-O--S-P-A-R-K!!!
I'm really frustrated as I needed it today to begin my landscaping work!
Help!
-Trev-
No, don't spray WD40 on the points. Just remove the cover & let it dry out. A little compressed air will help. No, I don't think the coil is trashed. I don't know where the points are on a 102, some of the other guys may help you with that.
mgonitzke
Well-known member
Points are at the bottom of the engine on the left side near the framerail.
Trevor,
Points are located left of the carb, below the govener arm, getting the bottom screw out can be a chore, once you have the cover off blow dry the points, run a pice of emery cloth between the contacts, this may take a few trys, your contacts could have a bit of corrosion on them preventing them from fireing.
Points are located left of the carb, below the govener arm, getting the bottom screw out can be a chore, once you have the cover off blow dry the points, run a pice of emery cloth between the contacts, this may take a few trys, your contacts could have a bit of corrosion on them preventing them from fireing.
Norm B,
Last year I posted about my 682 filling the crankcase when I went downhill. It would sputter and was blowing black smoke also. I changed the oil but never tore down the carb. I have been watching it carefully since but no repeats. I suspect the float got stuck because of the angle so I would check the pivot for wear or loosness. I researched putting on a solenoid shutoff but that only solves a leak when the engine is off.
JimE
Last year I posted about my 682 filling the crankcase when I went downhill. It would sputter and was blowing black smoke also. I changed the oil but never tore down the carb. I have been watching it carefully since but no repeats. I suspect the float got stuck because of the angle so I would check the pivot for wear or loosness. I researched putting on a solenoid shutoff but that only solves a leak when the engine is off.
JimE
Well the picture of my lawn a few days ago should be a thing of the past in a week or less. I got .6" of rain yesterday morning and another 2.8" today. I can already see the green sprouts starting to grow. Even with that much rain, I went out in the garden tonight and picked pickles and sweet corn without getting my shoes too muddy. Maybe the 129 will be used for the 2nd time since Memorial Day. I am going to pick up some 149 parts tomorrow night. He is going to bring out everything he has left and I get to pick what I want. It could be a good night. I hope to get my 149 running better with a different carb and will replace the weak hydro unit in my 1650. Who knows what else I will bring home with me.
