Archive through July 14, 2007

[mgonitzke]

Bill R.-

Would that be the big wire or the little wire? I think both of those terminals are soldered onto a wire that is soldered onto the coil windings inside. I'd try bending it back if it isn't bent too bad.

 

[bbrigham]

I can't speek for fallin of a wagon but my grand daughter fell into one today

. Her first ride in the new KidCadet. Now just to get decals made up. I think she likes it, boy is she spoiled

 

[jpmoore]

Hi again. I was able to get my pto clutch off of my 105 without having to drill anything.

In the process, I did notice that the pressure spring is not centered correctly in between the throw out levers. Also, I'm not sure if the throw out lever is 1 complete piece, or 3 seperate pieces..?? But, 1 fin of the throw out lever is very loose, I can easily spin the double nuts in the back, which in turn easily spins the flat head screw in the front. (The other 2 take more force to turn.) Also the small end of that throw out lever where it goes in behind the thrust button wiggles all around.. I'm not sure if that means something is broke, or just loose. I know that I need to take this apart, but am having trouble loosening the double nuts from the bolts to take off the throw-out lever. I think I need a vice, and another pair of hands.

KEN, when you said the locking collar might not be locked correctly, is that the part that is still on the end of my crankshaft? I'm looking at the end of the crankshaft, which has the bearing on it, and just behind that I see what I think is the locking collar--looks to have 2 screws holding it in. What's the correct way of locking it, just tightening those 2 screws? Also the directions I found say that bearing should be flush with the end of the crankshaft, as mine sits now, it is out about 1/8 of an inch past the end of the crankshaft...is that OK, or should it be perfectly flush? Thanks again everyone, I'm getting there...

 

[jpmoore]

Brendan-that little girl looks like she's having a ball, Way to go Grandpa!!!

 

[rbedell]

Bill R:

If you have the original S/G, and want to repair this bent stud, here is some information for you.

Neither stud is available from CC. However, the armature stud (w/Red & Blue wires) has a Part Number and you may find this in some dealers stock.

You could also go to a Starter Repair Shop, with the attached Delco-Remy number, and they may have a cross reference to a Delco Part Number.

 

[ccote]

Just got back from picking up a 129. I've been keeping my eye out for a wide frame hydro. The engine is apart, it threw a rod and needs a total rebuild. The steering assembly is shot, the deck is probably too far gone to repair and a host of other small problems, but the price was right. The previous owner said it worked great until the engine died. Hopefully that's true! This will be a loooong term project. I can't even start on it until I finish remodeling our bathroom, or else I will be sleeping in the shed with the Cubs!

 

[kweaver]

Jarrod - You know to loosen the top double nut first / not try to unscrew both at same time on the pressure spring bolts ?? I've only rebuilt 1 PTO clutch and that was several years ago and contrary to belief I have slept since then
The bolts shouldn't be loose enough to spin freely but they aren't torqued down either, that's why there is a supplied gauge for setting the proper pre-load. Sounds like you may need the thrust button replaced and you might as well put on the fiber button as well on the linkage, or better yet get a bronze one.
The locking collar has a locking eccentric female step that mates to a male eccentric on the bearing. Putting the two together and rotating them oppsite eachother causes them to off set each other thus gripping onto the crank. I forget which way they turn but that's easy to see after you take them off. You don't want the bearing sitting out off the crank. If anything a little inboard would be better but as the book calls for flush is the preffered location. You may have slid it forward a little pulling off the PTO.

Brendan - Can I ride too ??

 

[bbrigham]

Come on over Ken, always room for more

 

[fmorski]

Roland:
Check your e-mail...Typed "Ron" sorry...Answer to KT 17 question.

 

[jpmoore]

Ken--yep, I know to loosen the outer nut first, it's just a little difficult to keep a slotted screwdriver from popping out of the head on the other side while trying to break them free.

Seems as though the bearing does not fit on the shaft flush (far enough) due to a tiny c shaped wire that for some reason sits in a machined groove inside the bearing assembly. Interestingly enough, when I pop that wire out I can get it on flush. So that's apparently why the bearing wasn't on quite far enough before, and still won't be unless I leave that wire out. I have no idea what that wire is for, but I suppose I might find out in a hurry if I put everything together without it.

I see that after loosening the 2 screws that hold the main pulley on (I don't think that pulley was in the right spot either) that I can mount the pulley wherever I want on the shaft. Not that I want it spinning against the front of the engine, but shouldn't there be a stop somewhere? I can put the key anywhere in the groove on the crankshaft I want, so I guess the idea is to set the pulley on (temporarily), push the locking collar against it, shove the bearing (female) over the (male) locking collar, then slide the whole shebang back and forth until the front of the bearing is flush with the front of the crankshaft (assuming I throw that wire out)---then tighten everything. Seems to me there should be some sort of stop on the key to let a guy know exactly where to mount the pulley then work off of that--maybe not.

I'd still be messing with it, but the cub was starting to look like a real good 75 yard target for the .357 mag, so that's about when I call BREAKTIME!!!!!