As a mechanic for a good many years I'd say check the compression and the crankcase breather. Odds are it is building pressure in the crank case. The breather would be the first thing and the easiest. If it is compresion its a lot more work to fix the problem.
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Archive through July 14, 2007
- Thread starter dsauve
- Start date
Help Support IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum:
kconway
Well-known member
- Joined
- Feb 3, 2007
- Messages
- 88
- displayname
- Kevin Conway
The throw out bearing on the clutch on my 104 is in need of replacing. I've been reading over the "E-Z Clutch fix for narrow frames by Jim Steele" in the FAQ's. After the engine is slid forward and the drive shaft comes off, can the entire drive shaft assembley be pulled free from the transmition or is there anothe spiral pin that need to be removed?
Thanks in advance!
Thanks in advance!
mgonitzke
Well-known member
Kevin C.-
Yes, there's another that connects it to the input shaft of the transmission.
All-
Just got back from a long day at an auction. 7-8 Cubs there, mostly good prices. I bid up a 1512 that was gonna go way too cheap and wound up with it. So now I have 2 diesel cubs....
Yes, there's another that connects it to the input shaft of the transmission.
All-
Just got back from a long day at an auction. 7-8 Cubs there, mostly good prices. I bid up a 1512 that was gonna go way too cheap and wound up with it. So now I have 2 diesel cubs....
mgonitzke
Well-known member
And so will I. I can't keep both...wish I could though.
mmiller
Well-known member
- Joined
- Jul 17, 2006
- Messages
- 280
- displayname
- Michael A. Miller
I'm curious to hear any special tricks you guys might have when trying to start up a Kohler that has been sitting for years. Besides the obvious, like cleaning the gum out of the carb and tank, changing oil, etc.
I've heard some references to unsticking rings and valves. I'm going to try to start the K161 in my new Model 71 on Monday; any advice would be appreciated.
I've heard some references to unsticking rings and valves. I'm going to try to start the K161 in my new Model 71 on Monday; any advice would be appreciated.
I need some help with my 124. Installing the new wiring harness and the solenoid is giving me fits. First, how do I get the bottom bolt out? Do I have to take the steering wheel and pedestal off? Plus has anyone relocated the solenoid up higher in the pedestal ie: using the top bolt as the bottom bolt and drilling a hole then using a bolt and nut?
Second, while trying to get the wire that feeds the center conductor off I spun the terminal itself, it got loose when the nut would not break free then when the nut finally came off it seemed to tighten back up. Have I boogered the solenoid or can I reuse it?
Second, while trying to get the wire that feeds the center conductor off I spun the terminal itself, it got loose when the nut would not break free then when the nut finally came off it seemed to tighten back up. Have I boogered the solenoid or can I reuse it?
Mike M.
"MMO" Marvel Mystery Oil ...put a litle in the spark plug hole. Let it set for a day or so. If the engine is stuck...may want to set longer. If it turns, just turn a few revolutions and let set for a while. I like to purge after I do this by turning with plug out and using a little gas or some other cleaner. watch out so you don't get any ignition sparks while turning...I am sure others have their own methods...kinda like old wives tales...
I have gotten some old cubs that have sat round for long times to run this way.
If they are really stuck, you may have to remove the head. MMO is a must in your engine doctor's kit.
Dean:
Don't you mean blow-by? That would be rings. Does not smoke...could not check blow-by since the seal was completely out next to flywheel.
Am sure the engine has been out...Someone cut the shroud for some DUMB reason....Ignition has been replaced and carb has been replaced. Most of the motor mount bolts were missing...
The way people treat equipment amazes me...run till it drops...throw away..get new..run till the new one drops...
"MMO" Marvel Mystery Oil ...put a litle in the spark plug hole. Let it set for a day or so. If the engine is stuck...may want to set longer. If it turns, just turn a few revolutions and let set for a while. I like to purge after I do this by turning with plug out and using a little gas or some other cleaner. watch out so you don't get any ignition sparks while turning...I am sure others have their own methods...kinda like old wives tales...
I have gotten some old cubs that have sat round for long times to run this way.
If they are really stuck, you may have to remove the head. MMO is a must in your engine doctor's kit.
Dean:
Don't you mean blow-by? That would be rings. Does not smoke...could not check blow-by since the seal was completely out next to flywheel.
Am sure the engine has been out...Someone cut the shroud for some DUMB reason....Ignition has been replaced and carb has been replaced. Most of the motor mount bolts were missing...
The way people treat equipment amazes me...run till it drops...throw away..get new..run till the new one drops...
Michael M, It's simple--air, fuel and spark in that order. If you have no spark check the points they may have corrosion on the contact surface, a light sanding with some 600 will clean them up. If you suspect no fuel pull the air cleaner and spray some WD 40 into the carb while you crank it over. If it starts and dies you are not getting fuel.
This is what I do to troubleshoot any small engine and it works quite well..
This is what I do to troubleshoot any small engine and it works quite well..
Michael M: When you clean-up the carb, put in a new carb kit and make sure that the looong high speed needle is clear. It's hollow and if it's plugged like they usually are when an engine has set up for a long time, the engine will not run...That and clean up the points as has been pointed out should have your engine running....Also, don't forget to change the oil before cranking....
Myron B
Myron B
mgonitzke
Well-known member
Mike M.-
I've gotten to the point that whenever I fix a cub that hasn't moved in years, I have an order I do things in to fix it and it has worked well for me.
1. Turn by hand to see if it is stuck or broken inside.
2. Remove old battery if there was one, clean the cables, install a good battery, and crank the engine to see if the starter or starter/generator will crank it and if there is spark. I don't use a brand new battery for this in case there is something wrong with the wiring harness.
3. Pull the carb and tank, clean both, get a carb kit and new fuel line if applicable, and reinstall.
4. If no spark, first I put my ohm meter across the coil and see if it is open. If so I replace it and check for spark again. If that doesn't help, I file the points. Those two things and the spark plug wire are the most common problems.
5. Change the oil.
6. Attempt to start the tractor. Most of the time you have to help it a bit by squirting some gas into the carb to get it to start, and eventually it'll pull the gas through on its own.
Good luck!
I've gotten to the point that whenever I fix a cub that hasn't moved in years, I have an order I do things in to fix it and it has worked well for me.
1. Turn by hand to see if it is stuck or broken inside.
2. Remove old battery if there was one, clean the cables, install a good battery, and crank the engine to see if the starter or starter/generator will crank it and if there is spark. I don't use a brand new battery for this in case there is something wrong with the wiring harness.
3. Pull the carb and tank, clean both, get a carb kit and new fuel line if applicable, and reinstall.
4. If no spark, first I put my ohm meter across the coil and see if it is open. If so I replace it and check for spark again. If that doesn't help, I file the points. Those two things and the spark plug wire are the most common problems.
5. Change the oil.
6. Attempt to start the tractor. Most of the time you have to help it a bit by squirting some gas into the carb to get it to start, and eventually it'll pull the gas through on its own.
Good luck!
rbedell
Well-known member
Edward T:
There is a Tag on your deck that indicates the size and model. Mostly likely, you have a 50" deck. But to be sure, look at the tag and get back with us with the numbers off that tag.
YES....There are Gator Blades available for the 50" deck. Gator Number is 90-956.
There is a Tag on your deck that indicates the size and model. Mostly likely, you have a 50" deck. But to be sure, look at the tag and get back with us with the numbers off that tag.
YES....There are Gator Blades available for the 50" deck. Gator Number is 90-956.
rbedell
Well-known member
Walter B:
The Starter Solenoid can be reached by simply removing the Battery then gaining access to it. YES, you can relocate the solenoid to anywhere you want it, the question is, whether the stock harness will have enough wire to reach it. You could always "extend" the wires, if need ne.
With regards to the terminal you mentioned, I assume you mean the small terminal with the ORG/BLK wire going to it. If this is the case, then the only way to positively see if this terminal is undamaged, is to take on DVM and ohm out that terminal to Solenoid body (or case). I am venturing an educated guess, that you should see about 1500 Ohms. If you do, most likely the solenoid is OK. If not, open or infinity resistance, then it is time for a new solenoid.
Additionally, you could always run a jumper wire directly from the Battery (+) terminal and touch the terminal with the ORG/BLK wire going to it, and you should here a noticeable "click" noise. This indicates that the solenoid coil is functioning.
If my understanding was wrong, please supply some additional information. Let us know how this worked out.
The Starter Solenoid can be reached by simply removing the Battery then gaining access to it. YES, you can relocate the solenoid to anywhere you want it, the question is, whether the stock harness will have enough wire to reach it. You could always "extend" the wires, if need ne.
With regards to the terminal you mentioned, I assume you mean the small terminal with the ORG/BLK wire going to it. If this is the case, then the only way to positively see if this terminal is undamaged, is to take on DVM and ohm out that terminal to Solenoid body (or case). I am venturing an educated guess, that you should see about 1500 Ohms. If you do, most likely the solenoid is OK. If not, open or infinity resistance, then it is time for a new solenoid.
Additionally, you could always run a jumper wire directly from the Battery (+) terminal and touch the terminal with the ORG/BLK wire going to it, and you should here a noticeable "click" noise. This indicates that the solenoid coil is functioning.
If my understanding was wrong, please supply some additional information. Let us know how this worked out.
roland
just came in from getting solenoid off. the battery is out however the solenoid sits so low behind it that the bottom bolt to frame and electrical hook up are below the bottom of the battery tray. I had to go in from the front of the pedestal under the battery tray with an open end wrench and work at the nut. my plan is to move it up and use the top bolt as the new bottom nut just in case I end up doing this again.
thanks for the info going to check solenoid right now
just came in from getting solenoid off. the battery is out however the solenoid sits so low behind it that the bottom bolt to frame and electrical hook up are below the bottom of the battery tray. I had to go in from the front of the pedestal under the battery tray with an open end wrench and work at the nut. my plan is to move it up and use the top bolt as the new bottom nut just in case I end up doing this again.
thanks for the info going to check solenoid right now
MikeM,I recently got a model 73 that had sat in the weather all of it's life and hadn't been in service for several years. I sprayed penetrating oil in the cylinder, turned it over by hand, changed the oil, checked points, inspected fuel tank then fired that baby up. It is now the new mowing machine!! These are some tuff machines I don't think you can tear up a gear drive short of sinking in a pond an even then I don't know if that would kill one!
the solenoid is toast, i'll get one tomorrow. Tested by jumpering to the positive post and it got real hot but no click. took the lead off the bottom of the solenoid and ran it straight to the positive post turned right over. time for an oil change (with MMO included) and check the point's gap.
heres a silly question, why is my right rear valve stem on the inside but the left rear is on the outside. does it have to do with wheel weights and cultivating?
heres a silly question, why is my right rear valve stem on the inside but the left rear is on the outside. does it have to do with wheel weights and cultivating?
Kurt Brigaman asked me to post this for him, he cannot remember his pass word to log in here. He is needing a wiring diagram for a 782 cub. You can either email it to me or to him. He is trying to fix a friends 782 that has wiring issues. Thanks Mike T
